Old Jonsered help please?

[HolmenTree]

Same idea for today's Husqvarna TrioBrake.

[HolmenTree]

According to Stihl's corporate  history page their Quickstop chain brake was introduced in 1972 also.
But I find no mention or advertising of it during that time in issues of Chain Saw Age magazine ???
Not until much later in the decade.

[SawTroll]

According to Stihl's corporate  history page their Quickstop chain brake was introduced in 1972 also.
But I find no mention or advertising of it during that time in issues of Chain Saw Age magazine ???
Not until much later in the decade.

I was referring to the generally disliked Quickstop Super. ;)

[HolmenTree]

Same idea for today's Husqvarna TrioBrake.

According to Stihl's corporate  history page their Quickstop chain brake was introduced in 1972 also.
But I find no mention or advertising of it during that time in issues of Chain Saw Age magazine ???
Not until much later in the decade.

I was referring to the generally disliked Quickstop Super. ;)

Yes I know as I answered with the similarities of the Husqvarna  TrioBrake .

If I remember  correctly the early Stihl brakes we're designed with the crankshaft disengage similar to the Swedish inventor's design in 1972.

[sablatnic]

[/quote]
If I remember  correctly the early Stihl brakes we're designed with the crankshaft disengage similar to the Swedish inventor's design in 1972.
[/quote]

You are right - I have two 031s with brake and safety clutch. Works great, although it does feel a bit weird to be able to rev the engine without the chain running, until you pull back on the brake handle!

[HolmenTree]

Thanks sablatnic for proving I wasn't dreaming this up :D
Not for certain but I think it was a 041 that I tried out once that had it. It was a well engineered design, but I guess to cut manufacturing costs, design a simpler and lighter product it went out the window.
Also to add they were able to build a stronger more rigid  crankshaft too.

[sablatnic]

I can't remember if my 041 has it but it is very possible - I've seen it on larger stuff than the 031. It is well designed, but quite complicated with lots and lots of parts!

[Grizzly]

So I went to my local saw shop which still has quite a few bush/logger/forestry customers and hit a blank when asking for a bar for the 111S. I didn't ask about any other parts but got the feeling that they didn't want to spend too much time looking. I've put an inquiry into Chainsawr but figured it was a good idea to ask here as well. Anybody know of any parts kicking around the country? USA or Canada? I'd thought of selling it off but the saw has history with my farm and the logs I'm bucking need about a 36" bar so the saw is right for the job. The history part: The family that homesteaded this farm, logged it and made crop land from some of it were the original owners. So the saw has come home and due to a bit of a nostalgic inclination I have I thought I'd put some effort into making it work again. Any help out there?

Lyle

[sablatnic]

I might be wrong, it is many moons ago, but I seem to remember that we used the bars for the large Jonsereds, and just filed the slit wider - Don't just buy and do, get hold of an old bar, and check if it is possible.

[SawTroll]

If you can't find the correct D024 (Oregon mount) bar, just get a large Husky bar (D009), and make the slot a little wider - about 9.8mm (nominally 10) vs. 9.0 (nominally 9).
Measuring the bar bolts before grinding/filing is a good idea.

You can also take a D196/D096 bar out from 9.5mm or so - but then you may have to adjust the adjuster holes as well, and the dl counts for a nominal length often will differ from the usual ones.

A lot of "nominal" in this post, but that's how it is with bar and chain.... :

[Grizzly]

The oil ports and all the rest line up? Just adjust the bar slot?

[Real1shepherd]

Oiler should line up...always need to check though. Some of the large mount Husky bars are so poorly machined, they will fit right up to the old J'reds. I have a few that way. Sometimes you will have to modify the tensioner slot a bit too.  I found a die grinder bit that is exactly 10mm and works great. However, I hate to modify bars and especially enlarging the the rail slot to the next gauge up.

Kevin

[SawTroll]

The oil ports and all the rest line up? Just adjust the bar slot?

Just the slot should be different - but those other openings vary a bit even for the same mount pattern, so there is no 100% safe answer.

[Grizzly]

Excellent! Thanks for the info. I'll see what I can do now.

[Real1shepherd]

I even bought a Carlton bar from Bailey's that was very close to 10mm some yrs ago. But it was that bar that I had to mill out the rail slot...what a pain without a milling machine. That was a bad call from their 'expert'....said it would be "easy" to convert the bar. Been tradin' with Bailey's since the middle 70's...no more. That's not the only reason...one of many.

Shouldn't be too hard to find a bar. Good luck.

Kevin

[sablatnic]

I don't remember it being VERY hard to modify the slot, but it was like half an hour with good file.

[Real1shepherd]

Not "very" hard but a PIA hard. I used a Dremel and cheap diamond bits(three broke during the process) of the appropriate diameter.

Kevin

[Grizzly]

So I've talked to Cannon about a bar and that seems to take care of that challenge. I've been trying to find an oil tank cap as nothing in my shop nor anything in my parts bins matches. Chainsawr has nothing right now and I'll keep checking with him periodically but figured I could ask here too. Any help anyone?

[Grizzly]

Final results:

Chainsawr had some parts come through and I got an oil cap, and Cannonbars modified a bar to my saw and here's the first cut with the big bar.