357XP problem

[Just Me]

My saw started popping out the exhaust yesterday. Starts, touch the throttle and it pops out the exhaust and quits.

What do I look for, carpenter, not a mechanic so be gentle. :D

[dougand3]

It pops like an afterfire/backfire? Is rope harder to pull and harder to start? That sounds like flywheel has slipped and out of timing.

If saw starts easy, idles fine and dies on throttle up - sounds like carb problem: dirty carb or carb out of tune.

[Just Me]

Afterfire, like its firing in the muffler.

Almost like an intermittent coil problem as if it has a full fuel charge in the muffler when it does it. It is quite a loud sharp pop. I thought about timing, but I don't know two strokes.

Rope is not any different than it has ever been.

[dougand3]

If rope isn't jerky, I'm less likely to think timing error.

You can roughly check timing:
1. Pull plug and recoil
2. Rotate flywheel till piston is TDC
3. See where magnets are in relation to coil fins.
Trailing magnet should be around 2nd coil fin.

Could be carb dumping fuel that ends up unburnt/then burnt in muffler. Easiest fix is new AM carb at ~$20 online. You could disassemble, clean and rebuild kit carb. Kit is $6-$8.

Intermittant coil failure is possible - I just don't see it. They either work or don't work. You can pull plug, re-attach and ground on cyl fins, then observe spark in a dark area.

[Just Me]

 Thanks, I will look at that.

The saw is not that old, three years I think and only used on my property. I always use alcohol free gas and Husky synthetic oil, air cleaner is always clean, but it still could be the carb. This happened quickly, set it down to move some brush and when I picked it up it was stubborn starting and then did the pop thing.

[Just Me]

 Took it all apart, except the carb, cleaned and set the coil with two sheets of note paper. Coil is not adjustable back and forth but is where you said it should be. Tried it, just the same, with a couple of exceptions. Yesterday it fired and ran good once until it was shut off, and did the same thing today which makes me think it is not in the carb.

When it is running at idle it is a rump, rump, rump kind of idle, like the thing is only fireing every other time.

I wanted to cut today, but its too hot now, and the saw shop is open tomorrow so I guess I will take it in

[dougand3]

The running at idle could be a carb tuning issue.
Could be a kill switch wire is partially grounding. See if there is any difference in idle sounds with 2 wires removed from the coil module and stored away from coil. Examine wires for insulation breaks. You'll have to choke saw to stop for this test.
Do you have strong, repeating spark with plug grounded on cyl fins?

[RIDE-RED 350r]

What you are describing sounds like a fuel issue to me.

First things first, I would be checking for a failed plastic intake clamp. If it has a plastic intake clamp, it should be replaced with the new intake partition that has the updated steel clamp. OR, cut the plastic lock tab off the existing intake and install a 372 intake clamp.

Also, check the condition of your fuel line and filter, replace as needed if found to be questionable.

Tank vent could also be clogged.

Beyond that, I would be curious to know if your saw has the Walbro 199 carb or a Zama. If it has a Walbro, there are a couple of other issues that may need addressing.

I have a 357 made in 2005 and it has been a terrific saw for me, despite my having to take care of a couple of these issues I mentioned above. It is a saw that's well worth the time, effort, and a few bucks to make right.

[ehp]

almost sounds like the coil

[Just Me]

 It was a bad coil. Husky warrantied it even though the saw was 6 years old.

Interestingly, as soon as the new coil was installed the saw ran lean and would not idle. Apparently the old coil was weak from new. Readjusted the carb and set it at 13,000 on the top and the saw has more grunt than it ever did. I liked it before, I like it a lot more now.

[RIDE-RED 350r]

Excellent news! And good cal EHP.