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Help, How do I stop oil leaking from behind bar !!

Started by Greenerpastures, February 21, 2017, 09:29:01 AM

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Greenerpastures

Hi everyone

Oil is coming from behind the bar on my new Shindaiwa 490,
there is so much leaking that it is going to get into the clutch,
it drips and washes up along the side of the bar, way too much,
I don't want it to get into the clutch or detract from oiling the
bar, which seems fine even with the lowest oil setting.

I added a new bar, a groove was cut in the side of the bar so the
oil could flow up it into the hole which in turn leads to the rail
in the bar so lube can get to the chian.

Everything is clean and tight, what can I do to fix this oil from
coming out from what seems to be between the bar and the saw
housing nearest the clutch.

I had this problem before but I upgraded the saw so did not need
to fix it, but was told at that time there is some sort of paste which
is put on between the bar and the saw housing.

Any help would be much appreciated.

Thanks & Regards, john

dougand3

Have you turned the adjustable oiler screw to a lower setting?
It's hard to picture that a slot must be cut into a new bar (provided it's the proper bar for this saw). The bar oil hole, which has a passage into the rails, should be sitting right at the oil outlet to wick oil into the rails.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

Greenerpastures

Quote from: dougand3 on February 21, 2017, 11:49:37 AM
Have you turned the adjustable oiler screw to a lower setting?
It's hard to picture that a slot must be cut into a new bar (provided it's the proper bar for this saw). The bar oil hole, which has a passage into the rails, should be sitting right at the oil outlet to wick oil into the rails.
Hi dougand3
Yes, oil is on lowest setting.
Am getting a bad feeling about this, as I thought through it I remembered cleaning
the bar and giving it to my father to put chain on the saw, when I took the saw to
the dealer I bought it off I noted the chain was looser than it was when he tightened it,
and it was tight for I pulled it down to check it was not too tight.
Now the saw was only run up against a piece of wood to ensure oil was getting to the
bar, so what loosened it, I have a horrible feeling that he did not put the chain into the
drive properly and thus the chain being loose when I took it to the dealer.

But is this even possible, as it was flying around no problem no tugging or noise out
of the ordinary.
In any event would this have something to do with the oil being all over the bar and
in around the clutch.

Will have to wait now to see if this was the case, I knew there was a reason I usually
never let anyone near my stuff, he wanted to compare it to his new Stihl 251.

The bar had two holes in it, one up near the channel where the oil goes in to the channel
on the bar, the other was half an inch lower, this lower hole is lines up where the
oil comes out of the pump, but is not bored to connect it to the hole that leads to
the channel in the bar, so a small track was ground between the two so oil could get to the bar. Could not get the right bar in time for a job I was doing, it is a 15" bar as the original
18" bar was a little long for the job at hand.

Thanks & Regards, john


HuckFin

I read on another forum that your saw oils the chain through the bar adjuster pin hole. Do you have the outside bar guide plate installed? If not the oil will run right through the bar.

sharkey

Run a hacksaw blade down the bar groove to clean out the fines.  Use a carbide burr in your drill to open up the oiler hole/slot.  Some guys just use a grinder and put a notch in there where the hole is.  The problem is the small hole in the bar because it fills up with crap and then the oil runs out from behind the bar plate.     

Greenerpastures

Quote from: sharkey on February 21, 2017, 05:59:07 PM
Thank's sharkey
Run a hacksaw blade down the bar groove to clean out the fines.  Use a carbide burr in your drill to open up the oiler hole/slot.  Some guys just use a grinder and put a notch in there where the hole is.  The problem is the small hole in the bar because it fills up with crap and then the oil runs out from behind the bar plate.   
The saw is practically new, and is very clean, oil is clean, and holes in bar and on chassis
of saw are all clear.
If I was not so upset at the pouring oil I would have put on the original Shindaiwa bar
that came with the saw and tested, but as it was new I took it to the dealer, the chain being beside the drive sprocket is the only thing I can think of that could have been done by my father, as I mentioned he is used to the old Stihl 041 which has no rim drive and thus as long as the chain is over the sprocket it is in place and only needs tightening, hope am wrong about this though.
The bar is spotless clean as is the area behind the bar on the saw side, I left it this way for my father to assemble, which he had to wait an hour to do because I had the chain hanging up dripping after taking it out of an oil bath, while I was fixing punctures. Wish I did it my self now.

Thank's and Regards, john

Greenerpastures

Quote from: HuckFin on February 21, 2017, 05:23:27 PM
I read on another forum that your saw oils the chain through the bar adjuster pin hole. Do you have the outside bar guide plate installed? If not the oil will run right through the bar.
Thank's for posting HuckFin
I do not even know what the outside guide bar plate you mention is.
No parts came with the saw when I bought it, it is almost new and has very
little done, all I got was a combination socket screw driver, and a can of two stroke.

If anyone has a picture of this item it would be nice to see it.

Thank's & Regards, john

HuckFin

I wish I knew how to do pictures but if you can Google "Shindaiwa 490",  Lawnmowerpros.com has a very nice illustrated parts list that shows (2) guide plates, (one inner and one outer)   #11 is p/n 69020-53121 and #34 is p/n 22160-97630.  Hopefully that's the 490 version you have.

dougand3

http://www.ereplacementparts.com/shindaiwa-490-epa2-chain-saw-c-34630_34766_34777.html

Look at page E. #E11 = inner and #E34 = outer bar plates. The bar is sandwiched between these 2 plates.

And you have the proper bar? K041 mount. Although I bet an A041 mount might work - the tail is a little narrower.
Husky: 372xt, 272xp, 61, 55 (x3)...Poulan: 315, 4218 (x3), 2375, 2150, 2055, 2000 (x3)...Stihl 011AVT...Homelite XL...Saws come in broken, get fixed or parted, find new homes

Greenerpastures

Quote from: dougand3 on February 21, 2017, 07:39:57 PM
http://www.ereplacementparts.com/shindaiwa-490-epa2-chain-saw-c-34630_34766_34777.html

Look at page E. #E11 = inner and #E34 = outer bar plates. The bar is sandwiched between these 2 plates.

And you have the proper bar? K041 mount. Although I bet an A041 mount might work - the tail is a little narrower.
Thank's dougand3
There is indeed two plates on the saw, I was surprised to hear people mention this as the saw is new and such a missing component would not bode well.
I changed back to the original 18" Shindaiwa bar and because of its length it seems
to be keeping more oil on the bar and chain, have saw on middle oiler setting and will
adjust to lowest if required.
Less oil at the moment but will know more when I cut, teaming outside so could be a while.
I have a funny feeling that mod.ded bar will need to go back.

Regards, john

sandsawmill14

the chain got loose because of heat for it not being oiled properly i have this problem from time to time on all 3 of my saws but it is normally dust has plugged the bar my 441 does it the most often :)
hudson 228, lucky knuckleboom,stihl 038 064 441 magnum

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