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Back leveling roller won't go up?

Started by WellandportRob, December 01, 2017, 08:32:03 AM

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WellandportRob

The back leveling roller on my LT-40 won't raise. Levels are good and the front one works no problem.
Any Ideas?
2016 Wood-Mizer LT40HG 35 , Alaskan MKIII 60", Chev Duramax, Anderson logging trailer. Lucas DSM 23-19.

drobertson

can you here any kind of reaction of the hydraulic system at all?  Or is it like the valve is not putting fluid to the cylinder?   If I were to just shoot in the dark, I would suggest the spool is not moving allowing the fluid to actuate the cylinder.  Seems like there's a spring and detente, just behind the lever that is connected to the spool valve, seems like sometimes these springs break or something like that,  not seeing its hard to even say,
only have a few chain saws I'm not suppose to use, but will at times, one dog Dolly, pretty good dog, just not sure what for yet,  working on getting the gardening back in order, and kinda thinking on maybe a small bbq bizz,  thinking about it,

MartyParsons

Hello,
    I suggest you turn ignition key on accessory. Activate the rear toe board lever. You should hear the hydraulic pump . If not hold the hydraulic lever for the rear toe board and activate one of the other levers just enough so the pump comes on. The toe board roller should move.
If the hydraulic pump activates with the rear toe board lever but the cylinder does not move. I am not sure, I have seen very few issues with toe boards. Most common issue is the hydraulic switch needs to be adjusted or the lever for the valve spool needs adjusted.
Hope this helps.
Marty

Can not seem to find the exact picture but here are some close.


  

 

"A pessimist sees difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees opportunity in every difficulty." -Winston Churchill

WellandportRob

Thanks Marty,  I'll give it a shot and see.  I appreciate your response.
2016 Wood-Mizer LT40HG 35 , Alaskan MKIII 60", Chev Duramax, Anderson logging trailer. Lucas DSM 23-19.

LeeB

Huh, my box don't look near that clean. I do like the idea of a different shaped knob on the turner/back support handle. I have no idea why I haven't done it already. Much of the equipment I have run over the years had different shaped knobs when they were close together to help differentiate them by feel. I'll have to make some changes.
'98 LT40HDD/Lombardini, Case 580L, Cat D4C, JD 3032 tractor, JD 5410 tractor, Husky 346, 372 and 562XP's. Stihl MS180 and MS361, 1998 and 2006 3/4 Ton 5.9 Cummins 4x4's, 1989 Dodge D100 w/ 318, and a 1966 Chevy C60 w/ dump bed.

JV

My clamp didn't want to work properly so I readjusted the switches on my LT 40 and made a lot snappier response.  Getting that 3mm Allen wrench in to adjust was a little tight as I have command control.  My book said not to adjust the first two switches as they were factory adjusted.  Good thing I have small hands.
John

'05 Wood-mizer LT40HDG28-RA, Lucas 613 Swing Mill, Stihl 170, 260 Pro, 660, 084 w/56" Alaskan Mill, 041 w/Lewis Winch, Case 970 w/Farmi Winch, Case 850 Crawler Loader, Case 90XT Skidloader, Logrite tools

Percy

Quote from: LeeB on December 02, 2017, 07:08:42 AM
  Much of the equipment I have run over the years had different shaped knobs when they were close together to help differentiate them by feel. I'll have to make some changes.
Me too!! A simple but brilliant idea. smiley_thumbsup smiley_thumbsup
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