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Scott, you're saying rip a 5/4 board into two 2/4 boards? To do this though, you couldn't have any up in the original board, eh?
I'm taking your point in Scott. Mill thick enough to later slice into two boards, for a better chance of reducing cupping. So if my kerf is about 1/8", and I want two boards that are about 3/4 after slicing(assuming no cupping). That will give me room to plane on the back side if needed. So that adds to 1 5/8". How much will that shrink? 1/8"? Adding the shrinkage would make is 1 3/4" green. I could air dry them for awhile (6 months?) before putting them in the kiln(I don't have one... but I know a guy). Any tips on kiln settings for this. It's a Nyle/woodmizer kiln. I think it's a 4000BF unit. He loads it with 2500-2800 BF.
Quote from: Brad_bb on May 01, 2018, 08:41:42 PMI could air dry them for awhile (6 months?) before putting them in the kiln(I don't have one... but I know a guy). Any tips on kiln settings for this. It's a Nyle/woodmizer kiln. . .. . . . the boards will be around 45% MC, give or take. If you then load into the Woodmizer kiln you will need to have a system for adding moisture back into the kiln (I use a high pressure fogging system in mine). You'll need to keep the RH% up around 95%, give or take, for about 60 days at 90F.8/4 white oak is around a 4 month kiln run in an L200, and that's with a fogging system. . . The biggest challenge with all of this is getting the thick boards the same MC% in the core and the shell. If it varies, they will cup after resawing. . . .
I could air dry them for awhile (6 months?) before putting them in the kiln(I don't have one... but I know a guy). Any tips on kiln settings for this. It's a Nyle/woodmizer kiln. . .
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