Planning My Mill Set Up

[Dana Stanley]

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Hi All I am new to saw milling, I just bought a Woodland Mills HM-126. I have been busy buying things to move logs, check for nails, cut big logs, extend the bed, etc. Real life keeps getting in the way so so far all I've been able to do is assemble the track, and planning. I have a layout for the area I am setting it up in, and am planning a shed, and canopy, plus a trailer for it, as well as a trailer for hauling upto 3500 lbs of logs.
I am looking into buying logs from local tree services, as well as charging to take down trees, and harvesting the logs (paid to take free wood). If I find a good local source I can avoid that, but I am willing and able if I need to for now. I could use some ideas for finding sources?
Some of the equipment I have so far are (bear in mind I know I am a hobby mill and have no delusions of being the local wood mill king) So I have:

The Mill HM-126

10' extension for the mill, angle and tube steel (I can fabricate and enjoy doing it)

My truck 2002 Ranger ( no logs in that)

4-chainsaws 2-16", 20",24" The 24" is a Mac 610 someone gave me, I had to fix the chain adjuster, and I just bought a 24" bar and chain for it (saved $500.00) One of the 16" was another freebie, I cleaned changed the fuel Primed the carb started right up, and runs great (saved $150.00 there) I like saving $$$.

Kabota 7500 tractor w backhoe. Hoe comes off in 2 minutes, I can use it for skidding and some lifting of logs.

Skidding attachment/trailer hitch for 3 point hitch $100.00 on line (not sure if I am allowed to post name of brand, got it for mill)

Skidding tongs $35.00

30" bucket pallet forks 1500# capacity $100.00(same brand as Skid attachment, bucket is rated for 850#s)

Home made pevey I made a while back and a $35.00 steel cant hook /jack stand.

metal detector $35.00 Amazon ( tested it wit a drywall screw under 3 2x6s works good)

5-pack wood mizer blades (need advise on blades as I have read here that 4 degree is better than 10 degree for longevity, and straightness of cutin hardwoods?)

I have some ropes, if I end up getting my own logs, and bought a weighted bag for tossing over branches.

I have a trailer I may extend it and add another 2000# axle, or strip it and use material to build a longer one as it is 6'x8', and I want 12'or 14' long.

The plan is to make a 10X12 shed for over the saw head. and a 10x20 canopy over the track, with a tarp and wood cover for the track in the winter. So the first logs I cut will be for the shed. I plan on making a loading deck and feeding logs from behind, so I need to add a stop or two on the opposite side of the 3x6 tubing that holds the track together. I should have a 20'-6"capacity when I add the extension.

I am also planning a trailer that will have a 16' plus capacity. I can fabricate that for around $650.00. I will just use the tractor to lift the saw head off the stationary track and put it on the trailer track! That's only if I see a need to make it portable. I would enjoy making it, but it would be an unnecessary expense if I don't really need it.

Ill post trailer, and shed plans, and pics of the mill as I progress if anyone is interested.

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[Southside]

You scared me at the part where you are thinking of charging to remove trees. Liability comes to mind first and foremost. 

The other thing that stands out is your proposed log trailer. Given your location I would look at the DOT requirements for the transporting of logs. At least know what the law is so that you can make an educated decision about how you go about this. 

Not trying to dissuade you, rather just making sure you get the benefit of others experience. 

[Dana Stanley]

Oh don't worry about dissuading me, I appreciate the advise. I have considered the liability, and would likely only take on relatively safe jobs, downed trees etc. I do see signs in Connecticut about the transportation of logs, but will need to look into Mass laws. One may assume if it is within the state and for personal use. that, you would be ok, but I wouldn't want a big fine for assuming. In this state one might assume the law will restrict most anything you want to do!

[Southside]

US DOT - IE the feds have very specific requirements pertaining to transporting of logs. When it becomes an issue for the small guy is when you cross a state line, you get into an accident, or the DOT guy is bored and down on his numbers when you mosy on by.  The other potential issue could be quarantine. Some species have restrictions that impact where they can travel, gypsy moth, emerald ash borer, thousand canker disease, etc. 

Given that you are in the Peoples Republic of Massachusetts it is best to be cautious. 

[Dana Stanley]

From what I can see online, it's like you say, crossing the state line, and possibly coming out of the Berkshires! Big green beetle problem!! And yes my comrades of the Commonwealth keep a tight fist on things around here.

[DDW_OR]

Welcome
here are some topics i have found useful

Observations of a New Sawyer in Sawmills and Milling
Stopping Falling Stickers.......Video by 123 Goat in Sawmills and Milling
Blade Can in Sawmills and Milling
Useful sawmill mods in Sawmills and Milling


Surplus Center


I am a hobby miller for personal use.
you will have several "Piles"
2 to 3 of logs to be milled
1 or 2 of bark, sawdust, and unusable mill scraps.have a cutting horse for making the scraps into firewood or kindling
and several stacks of finished boards. keep similar boards in the same drying stack, hopefully they dry at the same rate.

there are several posts on sticker size and types pf wood.
1x2x 3 to 4 foot long.
when i am making the log into a cant i will cut the slabs at 3/4 inch thick, then cut to 1 1/2 wide
will save the slabs in several piles bu width. then when there is enough i cut stickers or boards.

having something to catch the sawdust is a MUST

[Dana Stanley]

So I got my first load of lumber from a local tree service guy. 200.00, close to 3 cord mostly pine mostly 24 inch some small, and 5 oak 16 to 20 inch. He was selling buy the cord anyway, $50 for pine, 125 larger oak, plus 25.00 delivery as I was out of town for him. How did I do I feel it was a pretty good deal, and I got the best of what he had. I could have gotten more oak, but this will be for a shed over my mill head 10x12. I want to try a oak post n beam frame, with pine rafters and boards n batten. ( I am working on the drawing now)


 

[Southside]

Maybe it's different over your way, but down here tree services usually have to pay a "tipping fee" to get rid of wood. I do have some that bring me logs, I don't charge for it and they bring me their chips and stump grindings which I mulch, mix with cow manure and apply to my fields. 

Some yard trees bring you money, some bring you anguish. You want to get a metal detector and run it over those logs, folks have a tendency to stick nails, screws, plant hangers, clothes lines, bicycle wheels, and just about anything else made out of metal in their trees. Oak will have a blue stain in the lumber when it has metal in it.  The stain will travel quite a ways and often it can be seen in the end of the log. Pine won't tell you a thing about hidden gems. 

I have had very good luck with yard trees and a few have destroyed bands on me. 

[Dana Stanley]

I'm working on finding free wood, but I wanted some to get started. I did buy a metal detector it seems to detect about 3 or 4" deep. Thanks for the advice though!!

[Skipper11A]

I don't know if $200 is a good price, but who cares?  It's a hobby and you're having fun!  
Your 10° blades will work great on the softwoods and will work well in most of the hardwoods.  The 4° blades are used for wood that is:
1. frozen
2. extremely hard (Mesquite, White Oak)
3. extremely wide cuts ( your 20" oak is the size where I would begin to think about a 4° blade but only if it is white oak)
With your 26" mill you will never be loading any monster logs so I think you're going to be happy with the 10° blades.

One caveat:  If you ever mill a dead tree it will be much harder to cut than the same live tree due to the dead tree being a lot drier and harder.

Good luck and keep us posted!

[Skipper11A]

I think you would be better off posting in the "Sawmills and Milling" forum.  You would receive dozens of responses there and it would really be a boost for your morale.  These "Brand Specific" threads are the ultimate backwaters of the forum.  I probably upset the administrator but I think you'd have more fun in an extremely active, vibrant forum, with lots of feedback.

[Dana Stanley]

Thanks! I will do that. I wondered why I didn't seem to get too many responses! Thanks for all the advise!