New EZ Boardwalk Jr not cutting straight

[Darren]

Hey guys, new here Ive followed the forum for a while looking for sawmills and finally made the decision on the EZ Boardwalk Jr that I received Friday. The mill is very well constructed and the Honda motor sure is nice and quiet. I didnt mess with changing anything from how they have it setup only thing ive done is put a blade on it and tensioned it. It says to adjust the leading nut to the indicator which ive done. At first my boards had a dive to them and they had a 1/4 inch slope on one side. After a few adjustments to how I have the mill set, now I just have the dive in the boards. Any ideas as to what I should be doing here. I'm new to sawmilling altogether so I have plenty to learn. Ive enjoyed the firewood that ive milled so far but would really like to make some real boards lol.

[Bruno of NH]

Sounds like a blade tensioning issue
To me 
Adding more tension might help

[Darren]

Will give it a try, thanks for the fast reply.

[Bruno of NH]

I run more than what the manufacturer of my mill reconmends.
It cuts better 

[Magicman]

Don't overlook the drive belt.   If it slips slowing down the blade speed, bad things happen.  Proper engine speed is also critical.

[Crossroads]

Welcome to the designer firewood club...

[Downstream]

I run mine a little tighter than flush to the tension nuts also, but not too far past and have not seen issues.  Only problems I see with wavy cut at all are associated with dull blades.  I run at full throttle and adjust feed speed to keep rpm's as constant as I can.  I would increase tension first and watch feed speed.

[Darren]

Do you do anything with the black nuts or do you just tension with T handle?

[Darren]

I just put a different blade on it and tensioned a little past flush so we will see 

[Downstream]

I have only tension using the t-handle.  Im using the 10 degree timberwolfs blades that I ordered with the mill.

[Darren]

Made another bad cant and a terrible board. After further inspection it looks like maybe I clamp it to tight and my be is off level for sure. The cant doesnt touch in the 2 center beams but makes contact on the beginning and end beam. As far as the clamping goes I noticed that when I released them from my cant that it drops the cant flush on the end beam. I guess I'm just rushing myself to much and not paying attention to all the little things

[Darren]

Ok thank you, thats what I'm doing and using as well.

[Downstream]

Your clamp comment also is spot on.  I have found that with the ez clamps there is a sweet spot where they are just tight enough to hold but not distort the cant/log.  when I really clamped them tight I usually was putting too much pressure and the wood sprung back to normal position after unclamping. 

[Darren]

Thanks for all the help, looks like more leveling needs to be done and I need to use less clamp before I go any farther

[Skipper11A]

Don't be afraid to over tension your EZ Boardwalk, especially if you are making wide cuts in extremely hard wood.  I add one extra rotation of the T handle when I'm milling Post Oak and Pecan and the blade still dives when it hits the big knots.

I'd like to know what type of wood you are milling and whether it was a standing dead tree or was still alive.  Some woods are much harder to saw than others and dead trees are harder than living trees.

[Darren]

I tried mostly ash, which most of that around here is dead, black cherry and poplar. All had the same results, but my track is definitely the biggest issue its not level enough. Will work on that next weekend, I'll have to get some beams or something to put under it

[barbender]

Ash that was standing dead can be a bit of a bear to saw anyhow.

[Darren]

Would probably help to open the actual ball valve for the water as well. All the little things I failed to notice😔. To much excitement I suppose, waited weeks so was really itching to try it out

[Bruno of NH]

Ash can be hard to saw sometimes

[Darren]

I have heard that but the poplar and black cherry I did came out the exact same. Its definitely on me, will have to get it figured out I'm new to this, just impatient as well lol.

[Chuck White]

Make sure that the blade is level with the bunk, both side to side and end to end!

[SawyerTed]

Check your blade installation instructions just to be sure you are putting them on correctly.   Is it possible the band wheels are taking the set out of the inside/top teeth because the teeth are riding on the wheel?

[Darren]

Says in the instructions to have the back edge of the blade even with the back of the wheel, it doesnt appear that the teeth ride on the wheel but will double check to be sure. They dont give you much of instruction guide, mostly just maintenance.

[hturner12]

If you are still having problems call Stanton. If you have it directly on the ground your frame is following the contur of the ground.

[never finished]

 The track must be level side to side and, straight end to end.

[hturner12]

When they do competions the set the end to end on a slight head to foot down angle. Kinda makes it autofeed.

[Darren]

I appreciate the feedback guys. Unfortunately, I havent been able to get back to it until yesterday. I have the track almost 100% level on some 4x4's. I put maybe a 4 1/2 foot ash log on it that was given to me and made a slab that was about 1/12 off from end to end. The log started to move around a little as it was getting close to the end so I'm figuring that might be the reason its off just a little. The good news is I'm definitely alot better off than last weekend, bad news its raining this morning.

[hturner12]

I appreciate the feedback guys. Unfortunately, I havent been able to get back to it until yesterday. I have the track almost 100% level on some 4x4's. I put maybe a 4 1/2 foot ash log on it that was given to me and made a slab that was about 1/12 off from end to end. The log started to move around a little as it was getting close to the end so I'm figuring that might be the reason its off just a little. The good news is I'm definitely alot better off than last weekend, bad news its raining this morning.

Darren 
Where you able to use both clamps?

[Darren]

No, not on that small log

[hturner12]

Thanks

[Darren]

How are these blades that come with the Jr for hardwood? I switched to some Hemlock with much better results from the ash. The boards are a little off yet but came out so much nicer, they are very close to perfect. The track is a touch springy in the middle so that could be why the hemlock I milled is off a little. He'll of alot better than any wood at lowes or home depot tho. Will try and post pictures later

[hturner12]

Have not had a chance to try them. First the fuel system on the tractor  acted up. Git it fixed then it started jumping out of forward. The tractor is at my neighbors shop so we can split it and find the problem. Plus the rain from the storm.

In a spirited  discussion  with the wife she brought up the fact  of how much I spent on the  mill and have not cut the first log. Reminded her again the tractor down and unles she wants  to be on the cant hook  while  I am on the pevy to move and load   the logs by hand got to wait till tractor is up, 

[Darren]

I hear ya there. Definitely easier with the equipment, I havent done anything to big as of yet to need the tractor. I took a look and the blades that come with it are meant woods that are softer. 93ss is what they come with, I believe it said 83ss for woods that are harder. Best of luck with your tractor, hope you get it straightened out so you can get to milling. There's been a little frustration trying to get it setup correct but ive been having fun as I go.

[Downstream]

Here are a couple of more helpful comments.  First the blade rollers have a small step to a slightly larger diameter at their base.  those steps create the backstop surface the back edge of the blade should butt up against.  Second if you are sawing shorter logs that don't reach to both clamps in the std position you can move the clamps closer by removing one and re-positioning it in the pre-drilled holes in the frame rails between the cross members.  only takes a few minutes to move it.

[LeeB]

In a spirited  discussion  with the wife she brought up the fact  of how much I spent on the  mill and have not cut the first log. Reminded her again the tractor down and unles she wants  to be on the cant hook  while  I am on the pevy to move and load   the logs by hand got to wait till tractor is up,

Tell her it's a better hobby than hanging out in the local beer joint. 

[hturner12]

In a spirited  discussion  with the wife she brought up the fact  of how much I spent on the  mill and have not cut the first log. Reminded her again the tractor down and unles she wants  to be on the cant hook  while  I am on the pevy to move and load   the logs by hand got to wait till tractor is up,

Tell her it's a better hobby than hanging out in the local beer joint.

Stopped drinking long time ago, but I know what you are saying. I got to saw just the lumber for the interior of the our house under design however I been giving thought once I get some  experiance of do8ng a few jobs a month  to cover the payment. 

[Darren]

Here are a couple of more helpful comments.  First the blade rollers have a small step to a slightly larger diameter at their base.  those steps create the backstop surface the back edge of the blade should butt up against.  Second if you are sawing shorter logs that don't reach to both clamps in the std position you can move the clamps closer by removing one and re-positioning it in the pre-drilled holes in the frame rails between the cross members.  only takes a few minutes to move it.

My blade looked like maybe it had a slight slant to it. I would drag the saw head back across the top of the log and watch it as a guide to see how it looked and the teeth seem like they are angled down compared to the back of the blade, normal? As far as the clamps go I should have realised that, thank you for pointing that out.

[Skipper11A]

Darren,  EZ Boardwalk ships with Timberwolf 10° blades which are marketed as "General purpose" but really don't work well in very hard woods especially when you are making very wide cuts.  They are great blades, just the wrong angle for "hard to cut" and "extremely hard to cut" woods.  I reground my Timberwolf blades to 4° and get MUCH better performance from them in hard woods.  I reground them with EZ Boardwalk's blade sharpener with the diamond wheel, and used a protractor to set the angle.

Many forum members use 4° blades while others a using Turbo 7° blades with good results.

[Darren]

Darren,  EZ Boardwalk ships with Timberwolf 10° blades which are marketed as "General purpose" but really don't work well in very hard woods especially when you are making very wide cuts.  They are great blades, just the wrong angle for "hard to cut" and "extremely hard to cut" woods.  I reground my Timberwolf blades to 4° and get MUCH better performance from them in hard woods.  I reground them with EZ Boardwalk's blade sharpener with the diamond wheel, and used a protractor to set the angle.

Many forum members use 4° blades while others a using Turbo 7° blades with good results.

Awesome, thank you

[justallan1]

I agree with Skipper.
Sawing ash definitely requires something other than a 10 degree blade.
I have an EZ Jr. and had to use a 4 degree blade to saw some wide ash logs. I initially tried the 7 degree blade and with the angle of the blade on the EZ adding to the hook angle it actually draws the blade into the logs causing it to dive.
My mill likes the Kasco blades and I like the price.

[Darren]

Thanks, i was searching a little last night with no luck. Will jump on kasco's site and look.

[hturner12]

Try the ripper 37 also. Jerry buys roll stock builds on site.
https://www.jerrysresharp.com

He will sell less than 15.


The Kasco you have to buy in increments of 15 they are made in Mexico ship to St Louis  for distribution. Richard sells them. 

http://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=97915.0

You may luck out and find a local shop to save on shipping you also have to consider your resharp service with 2 x shipping. 

When I get my tractor fixed and can start cutting  I 1 Timberwolf 10°, 2 ripper 37 7° ,2 Kasco 4° and 2 woodmizer turbo 7 that I am going  to test on hickory,  white oak, red oak, tulip poplar, and sweetgum. The hickory has been down a out a year.
I have a blade shop 20 minutes from me. The advise  I got from Jerry, Richard and the local shop was find a blade that  works on your hardest wood and use it for everything vs a 10 ° for this wood a 7 degree for that wood.  Also in our detailed instruction sheet from Stanton about do not a new blade more than 2 hours

[ladylake]

 
 You mentioned you left everything at factory settings, I think you have roller guides, check and make sure you have 1/4" down pressure. Sometime they get out of the factory not quite right.  Also get some 4 degree blade , 10 degree will cut straight but a slower feed rate.  Steve

[Darren]

Thanks for all the tips on the blades, will get some 7's and 4's to try. Closest place to me to get blades would be from Hudson, I'm about an hour and 30 minutes from where they are actually built out of Barneveld, NY. Ladylake, as far as the down pressure goes are you saying the guides should push down a 1/4" with blade engaged?

[Skipper11A]

You mentioned you left everything at factory settings, I think you have roller guides, check and make sure you have 1/4" down pressure. Sometime they get out of the factory not quite right.  Also get some 4 degree blade , 10 degree will cut straight but a slower feed rate.  Steve

Ladylake's advice is for Timberking and Woodmizer mills.  Do not do this with the EZ Boardwalk because it is designed to have no down pressure from the roller guides.  The roller guides will only come into play when the blade begins to deflect in the cut.  Don't change the factory settings because that's not your issue,  your issue is finding the correct blade angle... and you just need a lot more experience actually cutting wood. 

Another issue you may have to watch for is pitch building up on your blades, that would also not be a good thing but I haven't heard you mention that yet.

[gmmills]

Darren, You need to be using a lower hook angle blade. With your lower hp get some 4 deg Kasco blades to cut the hardwoods. Just contact Cutting Edge, Richard, he will steer you in the right direction. I buy all my Kasco blades from him.

                              Cutting Edge Saw Service
                         
                                Ph. 304-878-3343

[Darren]

Ordered some of those ripper 37's last night, will be in contact with cuttingedge as well for some 4 degree blades shortly. I do have some pitch buildup after that hemlock. I was reading try some dish soap to decrease buildup. And you are absolutely right I need experience.

[ladylake]

 
If I adjusted mine with no down pressure I'd be cutting crooked lumber also, TK only recommends 1/8" , the first thing I did was to adjust it to 1/4"  and it cuts straighter after that.  There is no downside to 1/4" down pressure. What makes the roller guide turn with no down pressure.  Steve

[Skipper11A]

If I adjusted mine with no down pressure I'd be cutting crooked lumber also, TK only recommends 1/8" , the first thing I did was to adjust it to 1/4"  and it cuts straighter after that.  There is no downside to 1/4" down pressure. What makes the roller guide turn with no down pressure.  Steve

Steve, my only point is that new sawmill owners should learn to master their mill with the factory setup without introducing new variables.  After mastering your mill, it's okay to experiment because you've got enough experience to really understand what you're doing. 

Today, I have to finish milling a big pecan that is producing beautiful lumber.  I'm going to put 1/8" down pressure on my roller guides and I'll let you know how it goes. 

[Darren]

Any of you guys with the boardwalk have the cable start fraying for the head lift? Mine is on the right hand side if youre pushing the mill. After some playing around my lumber is coming out much better.

[ladylake]

 Most would like to know what you did to make it cut straighter.  Steve

[Darren]

The band was off a bit on one side of the wheel and it took quite a bit of time to level the track out better. I tried adjusting the right side of the head as well because it didnt look parellel but it didnt really seem like that was doing anything, that cable is starting to fray tho so I'm not sure on that one. Ive been sawing some Hemlock 2x4's, will wait until my other bands get here before tackling hardwood