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Author Topic: oils  (Read 3013 times)

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Offline JD_Kid

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oils
« on: April 29, 2002, 01:22:10 AM »
Hi ya's
well this will set things going  8),What kind of oils are ya's useing for ya saw's ?? both motor and bar ,i have used all kinds 50-1 ,plain jane cheap oils,raceing oils etc etc .what have people used and had a good run with ie plug fouling smoking etc etc or lack of chain streching
.also brands to stear away from may help too
catch ya
JD Kid
I used to smoke camels but found them hard to light and kicked to much

Offline splinters

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Re: oils
« Reply #1 on: April 29, 2002, 06:28:55 AM »
First, I got a Stihl 034 10yrs old. Abuse the H out of it. For three weeks or so it gets run 6-8 hrs/da cutting firewood. mostly bad trees and loggers tops. I move all to a landing so I cut a lot of dirt. Rest of the year it sits gased and oiled .  Been using name brand 2cyl oils Stihl, Jonred, Husky.  Mix in a 5gal can and use until gone. Sometimes that sets over the winter. Use the same mix in everything 2cyl. Everything starts on 1-2 pulls everytime an little or no smoke.  Bar oil is from one of the logging suppliers. Good price by the case.  I try to buy a years supply of everything at the woodsmans field days. Cheap oil and the outboard stuff smokes. The synthetic that I tried smelled bad Upset my stomach.The guys that say that oil is oil and just gets burned or thrown off the bar buy a lot more saws than I do.

Offline TJACK

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Re: oils
« Reply #2 on: April 29, 2002, 10:42:42 AM »
I use Husky 50-1 mix and Husky bar oil, Summer or Winter depending on the temperature.  One of the local Stihl & Husky dealers is now only selling 40-1 as he said the saw will last longer.  He is logger full time and has someone else in the shop during the day, so I am sure he knows, although I talked to a Engineer at Husky USA and he said don't just change from 50-1 to 40-1 with out a re-tune.  If you do, the saw may run leaner.  I didn't sound right, I thought it would be richer, but he said the carb mixure would cause problems.  If you want a richer running saw, have it tuned that way with 50-1.  If you want your saw to last longer, turn down the RPM.  For me, I want speed 50-1 13,500RPM NO LOAD!!!

TJACK

Offline woodman

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Re: oils
« Reply #3 on: April 29, 2002, 07:54:48 PM »
  JD i have an 029  run the 40 to 1 reg gas mix and buy bar oil at the dealer by the gal.
Jim Cripanuk

Offline JD_Kid

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Re: oils
« Reply #4 on: April 30, 2002, 01:33:49 AM »
Hi ya's
thanks for ya replys ,i used to run 50-1 fully syn raceing oil (other 1/2's boys did moto cross )then used  a min oil 25-1 that is used in raceing go carts.both work great ,but with moveing i'll have to track down a dealer..
catch ya
JD Kid
I used to smoke camels but found them hard to light and kicked to much

Offline Frank_Pender

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Re: oils
« Reply #5 on: May 01, 2002, 11:51:10 PM »
Kid,  I run Stihls and use their mix oil of 50 to 1.  As to bar oil iI buy it by the 50 gallon drum.  It is a High viscosity put out the Standard Oil Company.
Frank Pender

Offline L. Wakefield

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Re: oils
« Reply #6 on: May 03, 2002, 07:00:14 PM »
   Can I ask what the actual weight is on the bar oil? I never bought it except by the gallon and don't remember seeing the actual viscosity #.   lw
L. Wakefield, owner and operator of the beastly truck Heretik, that refuses to stay between the lines when parking

Offline sawman

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Re: oils
« Reply #7 on: May 04, 2002, 06:32:31 AM »
Fluid Facts:

Two cycle oil:
All the major pro saw makers oils are good. You can use any of them in each others products. Regardless of what the reps say. Some are just ignorant, some just want you to only use their stuff, so the rest of the world's items just aren't good enough. Even if it's the same in a different bottle,..??!!

A Federal law actually addressed that problem in 1968 when auto companies tried to force the usage of only their name brand products of common maintenance parts, and fluids .
If any manufacturer requires you to use exclussively their products, they must for the entire warranty peroid give them FREE. Yes,...FREE.

Items must match or exceed OEM specs. Not hard to do as many companies use the same part or fluid maker.

If a oil is listed at 40:1, mix it at 40:1. Same with 50:1. Don't exceed lubrication boundaries.

Suggest you look for these specs; ISO/EGD, and JASO.
If listed, it meets the highest specs in the world. It's the best.

Bar & Chain:
There is one company that is the largest blender, and makes it for most major companies. It is the same base stock except for color, labeling, and jug color. I had been buying Poulan Pro B&C oil, selling it for a little more than what some other major companies dealer costs were.
9/11 changed that.
What did a cutter care, as long as it was equal, and saved them $$$.                                                                    B&C oils are not held to API standards, so you can get one batch that is a little thicker-snottier than another. Don't sweat it.
Most Summer weights are 30 weight non detergent.
Most Winter blends are 10 weight non detergent.

Little Tips (Sawmans Dust)

1. If cutting in resinous,sappy wood try cutting Summer blend with 10-20% max with Kerosene (even #2 Diesel in a pinch).
It acts as a thinner, and cleaner.
Note: must be throughly mixed, and you will use more, but it can keep equipment cleaner.

2. In Winter, if Winter blend isn't available, or you run out (never happens-right?), cut Summer blend up to 25%.
Note: See #1 above.

3. For additional info look under 'Knowledge-Sawman's Dust".

Safe cutting!

'14 LT40 Hydraulic 26 HP koehler ,massey ferguson 2200 forklift, Case IH D40
Wallenstein FX85


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