Blade Jumping in first 6" of Cut

[quadracutter222]

After a bunch of research, the advice here, calling WoodMizer, Cooks and the outfit I get blades from, I will be switching to 1 1/2" blades to correspond with the 1 1 1/4" thick 24" wheels.  Wheaton Industrial Saw was nice enough to take the new 2" blades on commission so I'm not stuck with both.

As for the guides, here are some pictures.  Both as installed and showing out of square.  Dressing will happen tomorrow.  Hopefully, these can get me through 2-3 weeks until the Cooks rollers come.  

[Cutting Edge]

As for the guides, here are some pictures.  Both as installed and showing out of square.  Dressing will happen tomorrow.  Hopefully, these can get me through 2-3 weeks until the Cooks rollers come.  

WOW, I'm surprised you were able to saw anything with much consistency with what you currently have. 


Upgrading to a roller guide system will be the BEST improvement you can make.  Converted several mills for customers, and NONE have regretted it.  


Regarding your steel wheels... If you're having problems maintaining tracking, the wheels are probably LONG overdue to be re-crowned.


1-1/2" blades will help, but because of your HP/torque, you still outta seriously consider running a lower hook angle. 


Sounds like you're headed in a positive direction !!    Be patient, there are bound to be other little issues arise you'll have to work through.

[quadracutter222]

As for the guides, here are some pictures.  Both as installed and showing out of square.  Dressing will happen tomorrow.  Hopefully, these can get me through 2-3 weeks until the Cooks rollers come.  

WOW, I'm surprised you were able to saw anything with much consistency with what you currently have.  


Upgrading to a roller guide system will be the BEST improvement you can make.  Converted several mills for customers, and NONE have regretted it.  


Regarding your steel wheels... If you're having problems maintaining tracking, the wheels are probably LONG overdue to be re-crowned.


1-1/2" blades will help, but because of your HP/torque, you still outta seriously consider running a lower hook angle.  


Sounds like you're headed in a positive direction !!    Be patient, there are bound to be other little issues arise you'll have to work through.

Thanks!  Do you know much about dressing those guides?  Should the angle be maintained, just dressed square or should I dress the whole block square and flat?  Angle can be seen best in the second picture.
Wheel tracking was an issue before I learned how to adjust the idle side components.  Tracks good now, just with the 2" bands there was a ton of back or front overhang.  
On the hook angle, can you elaborate more?  The cutting I will be doing is softwoods.  Both the woodmizer rep on Vancouver Island and the blade folks said to start at 10 degrees for that hp.  Enough information to make a persons head spin!!!!

[Cutting Edge]

"Should the angle be maintained, just dressed square or should I dress the whole block square and flat?" 

You need a dead flat/square surface.  Best to square it with the fixture as it gives reference surface for checking wear.  Unless you've got work coming, personally, I wouldn't spend the time and wait for the roller guides.


"Wheel tracking was an issue before I learned how to adjust the idle side components.  Tracks good now, just with the 2" bands there was a ton of back or front overhang."

Keep an eye on tracking as this will be your first clue if the crown has degraded and needs machined.

"On the hook angle, can you elaborate more?  The cutting I will be doing is softwoods.  Both the woodmizer rep on Vancouver Island and the blade folks said to start at 10 degrees for that hp.  Enough information to make a persons head spin!!!!"

Running a 1-1/2" blade is already going to take away some power in comparison to a 1-1/4".  You will notice a huge gain dropping back from 2".  I'd recommend going no heavier than .050" thick

25HP pulling 1-1/2", .050" blade AND any parasitic draw (hydraulic pump, alternator, etc.) eats away at the sustainable torque the engine can maintain, BEFORE it starts sawing.  Depending on what the engine is running, you could already be down to/below 20hp.

I have never sawed Doug Fir, but maybe it is similar to Virginia Pine ? (sawed PLENTY of it)  V. Pine is very soft, but the knots are hard like glass.  Sound like you're hitting nails when cutting through 'em.  Wouldn't even attempt with a 10 deg. (farthest from "all purpose" on 25hp), a fresh 7 will handle it "OK" until it just begins to dull then the waves will start at the knots... engine can't feed/density change and blade slows down. 

A 4 deg, even when nearing "dull" and ready to change will still handle the knots MUCH better than a more aggressive blade... it's taking a smaller bite... easier on the engine to maintain speed.  As for feed rate running 4 deg, should be close to a 10 deg (possibly better), BUT, your lumber will be MUCH better throughout the time that blade is running. 

Hope this makes sense to ya.

[quadracutter222]

Thanks for the continued help.  Makes sense for sure.  What was recommended was 0.045" for thickness.

As for the width, can and 1 1/4" blade run on a 1 1/4" steel wheel?

[Cutting Edge]

.045" should do you fine.  Might have a little trouble in wide cuts, but w/ 25hp, wide will be a challenge regardless.


No, unless there is a relief machined on the front edge of the wheel to accommodate a narrower blade.  Might be worth having that done.  Savings in blade costs could easily pay for the machining.