Author Topic: Round post to rectangular beam connection? (Read 553 times)

Nate R · « **on:** February 21, 2019, 09:06:37 PM »

I'm building a small cabin in the near future. NOT timber frame, but was hoping to get some help from this crowd.
20x30 footprint, with scissor trusses for roof framing. A portion of this will feature a covered porch. I'm going to be using a 3 1/2" x 9 1/2 1.9E LVL beam to support the trusses over the 11 ft porch width. One end will be pocketed into a wall. The other will need a post to support it.

So, I have a 7-8" Red Pine log now drying in my shed for this purpose. I want to peel it, and use it as the corner porch support post. The biggest struggle I'm running into: Best way to tie a round post to a square beam? The post will be a bit over 7" in diameter at the small end. Can I notch the beam into the post and bolt through? Or do I need more meat? Are there commercial connectors for this? I haven't been able to find any.

Thoughts?

Mike W · « **Reply #1 on:** February 21, 2019, 09:17:36 PM »

Nate,

I would just put a tongue on the top to give the LVL some bearing and bolt through as you mention, the bigger concern you might want to consider is anchoring the post base to prevent uplift, are you planning on sinking the post into concrete or on a pier pad with some sort of anchor to prevent uplift?

AZ_builder · « **Reply #2 on:** February 21, 2019, 09:34:15 PM »

My back porch is 10’ deep off the house. I had my trusses built 50’ wide, 40’ open span for the house with vaulted ceilings and 10’ for the porch. My porch post are 12” ponderosa pine logs that I notched on top to fit 6x8 for beams. The truss engineer said that my biggest concern would be with uplift. 1280lbs of upward pressure which means neg downward force. Point being.... you could pry glue them together and be ok, just anchor the post well.

Nate R · « **Reply #3 on:** February 24, 2019, 08:57:24 AM »

@Mike W , are you saying just cut 3 1/2" off of ONE side of the log, or notch the middle of the top of the log to fit in the beam in? If in the middle, I wonder about required "meat" on either side? But I suppose, with good bolting, it's probably fine to just bolt through one side of log...

Uplift: Didn't specify since I felt better about that side....Likely either doing a TimberLinx connector, or something like a Simpson PBV6PC. Either one can handle a good amount of uplift.

AZ_builder · « **Reply #4 on:** February 24, 2019, 09:36:09 AM »

That’s the same plate I used on mine. I can’t seem to get the picture to load for the guy in the other thread.

Mike W · « **Reply #5 on:** February 24, 2019, 10:28:37 AM »

Hi Nate,

I would personally notch the back half of the post and rest the LVL on the shoulder with through bolts, will be a better connection I would think, would also be more aesthetically pleasing to see the post carry all the way up to underside of roof in lieu of seeing the post being cut short. I like the TimberLinx anchor, thought you already had that covered, just figured i would throw that out there for discussion of the whole assembly.

Keep us in the loop as things progress, of course with photos, so we all know its real.

Nate R · « **Reply #6 on:** February 24, 2019, 01:35:17 PM »

Quote from: Mike W on February 24, 2019, 10:28:37 AM

Keep us in the loop as things progress, of course with photos, so we all know its real.

Will do! It'll be a while. Planning on slab/foundation pour this year, but real build is next year. but wanted to get this post drying THIS winter. The real reason I cut THIS particular tree was for the top. 50+ feet up was a strange stem shape. Don't know if it broke and regrew or what.

My wife wants to TRY and retain the bark on this one, and it's going to mount vertically to the cabin wall, and likely have a light fixture hanging off of the curved portion.
So, we cut it in winter and painted the ends with latex, and then put it inside our shed to have a shot at retaining the bark on that. We'll see!

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