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Author Topic: Drying Gun Stock Material  (Read 426 times)

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Offline 123maxbars

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Drying Gun Stock Material
« on: February 27, 2019, 06:12:24 AM »
I have a few nice crotch walnut logs that are around 2feet in length, With some help from some plywood and my small jig I can still saw them on my LT35. Since these are short slabs I was thinking of sawing them into 12/4 for future gun stocks. What is the best practice for air drying short material like this? 
I will deal with trying to dry it in my kiln later on down the road which is another topic probably on placement of the stock.
 I was thinking maybe a short stickered stack in the corner of my barn and forget about it? Just seeing what others do when drying gun stocks. This will be my first attempt at sawing them.
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Offline doc henderson

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Re: Drying Gun Stock Material
« Reply #1 on: February 27, 2019, 06:42:38 AM »
My question is do you need to create a buffer so it is not so much dryer on the surface, such as some burlap or cardboard.  I have got lucky with 12/4 walnut doing as you have stated and just letting it happen.  has the wood been sealed on the ends?  are the logs green or been air drying for awhile?  sorry more questions than answers.




 




 


these are flitches.  I have a big crotch log and I am sure the grain patterns we are looking for in crotch wood, will make the drying more complex.  @GeneWengert-WoodDoc 
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Re: Drying Gun Stock Material
« Reply #2 on: February 27, 2019, 07:38:20 AM »
I have issues with small cracks in the crotch.  That would ruin them for gun stocks.  You are going to have to keep the drying slow.  A vacuum kiln would be nice. 
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5640SU, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline YellowHammer

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Re: Drying Gun Stock Material
« Reply #3 on: February 27, 2019, 09:19:57 AM »
Try to anticipate where the highly figured target wood will be, stay away from the pith when milling.

Dry the pieces in a moist, damp place, if you have one.  I have a very damp, dark, condensing, gravel floored barn that I use for these types of pieces.  High humidity helps reduce drying rate.

I would apply some Anchorseal on the face of the crotch area as well as the ends.  Short pieces will really try to dry too fast.  Anchorseal is your friend.  

Sometimes, crotch wood just cracks.

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it wont roll, its not a log; its still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyre burned, and you cant fix them.  Dont burn the cookies.


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