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Author Topic: Clearing Saws  (Read 7771 times)

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Offline John Mc

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #140 on: July 12, 2019, 11:06:24 AM »
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Orange. When you get a chance, fill out your profile so we know where you are from.

I use a 7/32 round file on my Scarlet blades when I had them, and now use it on my Maxi blades. I don't recall having the problem you noted with fit, but it's been a while since I started with a new blade. I would not be surprised if the first sharpen did need to reshape the tooth a bit. They were probably sharpened with a grinding wheel that had a profile slightly different from a round file.

Using the file guide as shown in the photo posted by SwampDonkey will help assure you have the file at the right height. If you can't find one of those (with the built-in tooth setter), a similar guide for sharpening 3/8" pitch chainsaw chain which uses a 7/32" file works fine as well. They are sold in most chainsaw shops, as well as many hardware stores or "big box" stores which also sell chainsaws.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Orange

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #141 on: July 12, 2019, 11:18:04 AM »
Update on the Husky 545fr vs echo srm410u... The Husky feels like it has a bit more power, and the antivibe is a bit better than the echo. The short shaft works better in rugged terrain, and is easier to swing. The other side of that, is I could catch a foot with the blade. I don't like that. It was physically impossible to cut myself with the echo. The Husky can't be balanced. The adjustment ranges from nose heavy, to nose really heavy. I prefer the shaft to not touch the ground with hands off; floating just over the ground.

All around, the Husky's a more polished machine. Everything is just a bit nicer than the echo. While everything works well on the echo, it seems like older technology. It does everything the Husky does, but may require more tools and/or fiddling to get it done.

Recommendation? Sticker price on both is very close without sales. The Husky is $200 more, but it comes with three good blades(tripoint, maxi, string), and the stock harness is waaaay better than what comes with the echo. Throw in an echo sales event, and the decision gets more interesting. I think the echo wins for general groundskeeping. If what you're doing is a 'walk in the park', the echo is the machine to have. If you're climbing over logs, dealing with hidden ravines, and going up and down 2:1 slopes, the Husky might be the better choice, but watch your toes!
Do you know how much shorter the Husky shaft is vs the Echo? I'm only 6' and when I run the Echo with a trimmer head to clean up around the yard I have to stoop down with knees bent. The handlebar tower isn't very tall so if I lower the saw on the harness, the handlebars are too low. Usually I'm cutting brush or mowing overgrown field so not concerned then with a nice manicured look, so it's not a big deal. I agree the Echo seems to be striking a balance as a professional trimmer that is brush capable. It's vicious with a string on it. For heavy and larger diameter brush though, which is main reason I got it, I don't have much confidence the drive train will hold up for long. Your experience has not helped.

Offline Orange

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #142 on: July 12, 2019, 11:27:25 AM »
Welcome to the Forestry Forum, Orange. When you get a chance, fill out your profile so we know where you are from.

I use a 7/32 round file on my Scarlet blades when I had them, and now use it on my Maxi blades. I don't recall having the problem you noted with fit, but it's been a while since I started with a new blade. I would not be surprised if the first sharpen did need to reshape the tooth a bit. They were probably sharpened with a grinding wheel that had a profile slightly different from a round file.
Thanks for the welcome! And I'll do that.
Turns out I can post images, so the following two are attempts to show how the specified 7/32" round file fits the tooth. I suspected it may have something to do with the shape of the factory grind as it's not perfectly circular. But still this file strikes me as much too large.


 

 

Offline Orange

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #143 on: July 12, 2019, 11:29:36 AM »
This is with a 5/32" grinding stone just for comparison...



 

Think I should proceed with the 7/32 as spec'd?

Offline lxskllr

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #144 on: July 12, 2019, 11:29:45 AM »
I couldn't say exactly, and looking up raw number specs don't tell the whole story due to variables like the motor mount length, but I'd say the Husky is at least a good 6" shorter.

I'm surprised you can't get a comfortable height/length on it. Perhaps try rotating the handlebars so they're more vertical on the shaft.

I wouldn't worry too much about the longevity of the echo. I was using it really hard. If you end up blowing a tube like I did, look into getting Stihl bushings to put in your tube. I didn't get a chance to try it, but I think it would work, and it's cheap enough to give it a try.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #145 on: July 12, 2019, 11:57:07 AM »
Think I should proceed with the 7/32 as spec'd?
I would use the 7/32". They spec'd it for a reason. Either will probably work, if held at the correct height in relation to the tooth, the gullet will be smaller with the 5/32". Anything is probably better than a dull blade.
It looks as though the 7/32" file may be riding a bit high in the photos you included, so it's possible you will need to sharpen down as well as back. Using one of the guides picture makes sharpening a no-brainer: it's easier and faster than chainsaw chain.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Orange

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #146 on: July 12, 2019, 11:59:55 AM »
Wow...6" is a lot. I had the same trouble looking at specs. Echo says 60.2". I thought I've seen Husky shaft lengths reported somewhere but can't find them now. For other markets it looks like Husky also has the "RX" designation (vs FX or FR) which have longer shafts (but I don't know how much) and different angle gear head for trimming but not in the US.

Thanks for the tip on rotating the bars back more. I think I tried that but I'll play around with it some more and see if it helps.

Offline Orange

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #147 on: July 12, 2019, 12:03:59 PM »
I would use the 7/32". They spec'd it for a reason. Either will probably work, if held at the correct height in relation to the tooth, the gullet will be smaller with the 5/32". Anything is probably better than a dull blade.
It looks as though the 7/32" file may be riding a bit high in the photos you included, so it's possible you will need to sharpen down as well as back. Using one of the guides picture makes sharpening a no-brainer: it's easier and faster than chainsaw chain.
Thanks I'll give it a shot. I assume I should file "down" first until the file is low enough in relation to the top of the tooth, before filing back into the gullet? And are the guides pictured any different then the chain filing guides (which I have) besides having the tooth setting notch?

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #148 on: July 12, 2019, 12:25:44 PM »
I would use the 7/32". They spec'd it for a reason. Either will probably work, if held at the correct height in relation to the tooth, the gullet will be smaller with the 5/32". Anything is probably better than a dull blade.
It looks as though the 7/32" file may be riding a bit high in the photos you included, so it's possible you will need to sharpen down as well as back. Using one of the guides picture makes sharpening a no-brainer: it's easier and faster than chainsaw chain.
Thanks I'll give it a shot. I assume I should file "down" first until the file is low enough in relation to the top of the tooth, before filing back into the gullet? And are the guides pictured any different then the chain filing guides (which I have) besides having the tooth setting notch?
The file portion of those guides are identical to those used for a chainsaw - at least as far as I can tell. The tooth setting tool that came with my Jonsered is separate from the guide. I've used my chainsaw guide on both with good results.
Your fist sharpening will likely take a little bit more effort due to the reshaping needed, but after that it should go very quickly.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline Orange

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #149 on: July 15, 2019, 03:38:12 PM »
Thanks for all the help, folks! I'm really busy next few weeks but as soon as I get the chance I'll have a go at this blade with 7/32" stone and file and see if I can make it cut like new. I'll try to remember to report back if anything noteworthy comes up.

Offline lxskllr

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #150 on: September 09, 2019, 08:08:29 PM »
Finally got a chance to use my shredder blade. That thing's the bee's knees for cutting vines and brambles. It's a refinement over the tripoint for crushing them down. I'd consider switching to it as my general purpose blade, but you have to be a little more careful with ground clearance. For a day cutting leggy stuff though, I haven't used anything better.

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #151 on: September 09, 2019, 08:53:03 PM »
Shredder blade?
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline lxskllr

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #152 on: September 09, 2019, 09:01:40 PM »
It's a two pointed blade with the end of the tines turned down. Mine's a Chinese version(probably), and doesn't have the curves, but basically this...


Offline SwampDonkey

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Re: Clearing Saws
« Reply #153 on: September 10, 2019, 03:33:43 PM »
I guess the lawn mower type blade that those guys were using to chew down small saplings. ;D
Move'n on.


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