High work boot vs regular work boot

[bigtrees]

Since I'm planning on doing some work in the woods, I picked up a pair of leather boots off Amazon. Ever Boot Tank, something like this:

Amazon.com: EVER BOOTS "Tank" Men's Soft Toe Oil Full Grain Leather Insulated Work Boots Construction Rubber Sole: Shoes

They are good work boots most often for construction rather than in the woods specifically.

Then today I see a pair of Logging Boots. This are more familiar to me, look something like this

Amazon.com | AdTec Men's 9-Inch Logger Boot | Motorcycle & Combat

My question is, which do you prefer? The taller high boot style (Logging boot) or the more standard height for regular work boot.

[lxskllr]

I wear combat boots with BDUs tucked in the tops, and laced tight. Keeps out bugs, and I can walk in mud up to my knees, and not get any in my boots. I'm not crazy about true logging boots cause of the high heels. My feet were installed slightly crooked, and I break down the heel counter on boots. High heels exacerbate the condition.

[Ed_K]

 I had a pair of logger boots and bout killed my self in them. The high heal catches on every stick of wood you walk over either tripping you or twisting your ankle. I like the combat boots best.

[Magicman]

I will not wear any boot while dealing with logs that are not steel toe.  Also they must have 8"-9" boot tops to keep the sawdust out.

[hacknchop]

Steel toes are a must for me and anyone in the immediate area of where I'm working.

[dgdrls]

Sawmill Footwear in Sawmills and Milling

Similar thread, 

D

[Southside]

I wear combat boots with BDUs tucked in the tops,

How do you not get them full of chips, sawdust, etc?  I have gone to Deluth heavy denim carpenter pants but back in my BDU days we always bloused our pants and that kept stuff out for sure.  

[lxskllr]

They're tucked in, and laced tight. They're bloused, but I don't use the blousing strings. Like I said, dirt and mud won't get in them, even when submerged. Pockets OTOH...

[moodnacreek]

This all boils down to hot feet versus splinters in socks.

[DPatton]

This all boils down to hot feet versus splinters in socks.

Lol.... I go with the hot feet boot year round. When working I like the extra support and protection I get from a 9”-10” boot. IMHO I think sock selection is just as important as the right boot. No way I could work with my pant leg tucked in my boot.

[lxskllr]

 No way I could work with my pant leg tucked in my boot.

I think you could. You just need the right pants. Military clothes, or others with thin material are necessary. I wouldn't do it with jeans. Put boots on, tuck pants down to your ankle bone, start pulling the laces tight. When everything is touching your leg, pull the pants up a touch to allow a good blouse, then tighten everything up. You should then be able to make your maximum step without any pull on the pants. The blousing allows extra material to move as you step and reach.

[RPF2509]

I have 14" logger boots and would not go with less.  The height keeps my shins from getting banged up, you can tuck heavy pants in easily if you need to keep the bugs out.  The high heel is essential on steeper ground, catching sticks, logs  in the heel/sole notch is critical to keep from slipping.  If its really steep I wear my caulks.  Yes my feet sweat when its hot out but all leather breathes a bit.  Always wear thick socks no matter the temperature, they help absorb the sweat and do not seem to make my feet hotter.  Always heard that steel toes around very heavy objects (logs) was a good way to get your toes amputated.  No logger I know wears steel toed boots.  Though they do work well around less heavy things (boards) and mill workers here do wear them.

[Skip]

You heard right,cost me 1/2 a foot .

[Old Greenhorn]

You heard right,cost me 1/2 a foot .

Skip, I don't understand your comment, what are you referring to here? What did I miss?
To the original question, in the woods, for work, I wear 10 loggers and wish they were 12" or more (next pair). My ankles take a beating from the rocks and getting struck by limbs and branches when loping off the slash. Steel toes are mandatory, I often peavy a log and use my toe to hold it while I take the next grab. Soft toes would have me with a lot of broken toes. Also rounds dropped off the splitter will likewise smart a lot. I have thought of metatarsal covers for when I split because I sometimes get whacked on top of the arch and that HURTS! The steel shanks do me well on all the shale we have here. If I am just going for a walk, cruising, or what ever I will wear 6" hikers with a composite toe. I am not judging others, but for me, if it doesn't have a hard toe, it's not a work boot.

[RPF2509]

I've worn Wescos for 30 years just about every day ($500 for my last pair - cry once).  A pair will last about 4 years ($125 a year) Most westerner's wear Whites or Wescos.  The Redwing style of boot seems flimsy to me in the ankles and toes.  The Wescos are made from very heavy leather and the toebox is firm but not uncrushable.  The heavy leather kiltie tounge under the laces helps protect the top of the arch.  I guess it really depends on the work you are doing and the terrain you're working on. I regularly crash heavy brush and slash on steep ground so boots need to be well made with vibram soles to hold up.  36" logs are common out west and will squish you like nobody's business.  Even an 18" log is heavy and should be respected. Using your foot as a stop seems like a good way to have an accident.  Work smart and be safe.  I think Skip is referring to losing 1/2 his foot to steel toes.  The inward edge of steel folds down when crushed and pinches off your toes between the sole.  Broken toes will heal, cut off ones are hard to reattach.

[Skip]

That is what I was referring to .