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Thanks everyone! Would anyone know about the shrinkage in that? Like would my logs individually separate some or would the entire wall just shrink together? I really appreciate all the positive feedback! How would I go about putting my roof on if the walls shrink and windows etc.? Again thank you all!
Some of my logs are over 40 feet long and maybe 20” diameter at the big end. There is almost no visible checking anywhere in the house. That is because of the saw kerf that is run down the middle of the joint. I would look for a foam gasket that has adhesive on one side. Place that close to the inner edge and close to the outer edge. When the house is done, use a caulk like Big Stretch and run a bead along the outer seams and you should not need it inside.(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
Foam really needs somewhere to live to be able to recover. It doesn't recover if smashed flat. You also don't really want it creating dimension.Centered on the bottom flat, straddling your kerf, run a power planer a couple of passes up the length of the underside of the log, creating a plowed out wide, shallow groove. Stick the foam in that, then it doesn't interfere with log height and the foam is not crushed. Flat faces become convex as the timbers dry, this will keep the logs bearing on the outer edges of the plowed groove. Fastening the logs down with screws in counterbored pilot holes lets you get them tighter to begin with, something I've never been able to do with any dowel type connector, pins, spikes, rebar. At least take that out of the gapping equation. Allthread drilled in as you go can allow you to keep tightening the stack later.The foam will not prevent the drying stress from concentrating on that weakest radial part of the log, it is a stress concentration point rather than a drying point.
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