Stupid question about gooseneck trailers.

[Old Greenhorn]

OK guys and Gals, first, don't get too wrapped up in this one because I am just looking for basic entry level knowledge. I have no knowledge or experience with goose-neck trailers which I always called a 5th wheel. I am about to switch back to a full sized pickup after a couple of years with those mini jobs. I would love to get a 350 or 3500, but the mileage is so bad for commuting that it is a non starter. Diesel is out too for other reasons. I would like to get something with a good tow package and would like to stay in the 1500 class if I can. But I also want to be able to pull a trailer with a few good logs on it, NOT a huge full load, just a few good logs. Tongue weight gets to be an issue as well as handling with a 16' trailer and some weight.
 SO I am wondering, if I were to get a goose neck trailer say around 18 to 20' how would that handle on a 1500 class truck compared to a standard receiver hitch? I like the idea of having the load right over the axle and figure it will just come down to the pulling power of the truck. I have no interstate driving in my plans at all. Just rural and secondary roads, 55 mph tops. 
What do you guys think, can I get a better load on a goose neck than I can on a receiver hitch with the same truck or am I just urinating into the wind trying to squeeze too much out of a smallish truck?
 Again, don't go crazy here, but I know this group will open my eyes a bit and maybe give me the reality check I need, as usual.

[LeeB]

I've been running 3/4 ton trucks for years so am no longer familiar with the capabilities of 1/2 ton. My only advice is to consider not if the truck can pull the load, but can it stop it. Just because it can pull it doesn't mean it should. 

[Iwawoodwork]

first there is none of the 1500s that I know of that are rated to legally tow a decent gooseneck (10000lbs or up)loaded. also you probably will not get any better mileage when towing than a larger PU, my 1996 f350 ccab 4x4 regularly got 17 mpg driving and 10-14 with light load 7-8k, I put about 150k and my 1999 dodge 3500 dually  4x4 gets about 16 empty and similar to the ford loaded and have had close to20k lbs behind it with my 12 ton goose neck. I think you would be surprised at the mileage a  diesel gets plus the towing comfort I would never consider a 1500/150 gas for towing much.

[Old Greenhorn]

first there is none of the 1500s that I know of that are rated to legally tow a decent gooseneck (10000lbs or up)loaded.

You read a lot more into my question than I intended. No way am I looking to even pull 8,000 pounds. I would not be moving very often with the trailer, that's why the mileage day to day matters to me. Not the mileage I get when towing.

[stavebuyer]

Towing capacity/ratings have climbed in all newer truck categories. No a 1/2 ton isn't in the same league as 3/4 or ton diesel dually but that isn't your goal. A gooseneck is still what you want. Better balance and much easier to maneuver. A brake controller, a little common sense, and go haul your 2-3 tons of logs. ;D

[Skeans1]

The biggest issue I can see is finding a trailer light enough to have a decent capacity, we have had 5th wheels put into half ton well before these new ones have come out. It seems like I remember seeing a fifth wheel prep kit/option on the newer F150's you might look and see if any of the factories offer a kit or if you ordered a truck with it.

Myself I prefer a 5th wheel over a gooseball any of these trailers can be switched over with a head tube change, our "gooseneck" has a fifth wheel king pin in it. 

[snowstorm]

5th wheel goose neck prep kit. my old truck came with it. f250 6.7. my new one did not. i had the puck style hitich just needed the mount kit. the camper dealer agreed to include it with the new camper. after waiting 3 weeks reese told them thats special order we dont want to sell you one. so i call my ford parts guy. can you get it yes be here tomorrow. not only is it less money it s goose neck capable. the reese is not. its one peice the reese is 3 bolted together. the hardest part of installing it is finding a torrx plus socket to fit the body bolts 

[ellmoe]

I run a F150 2013 4 x 4 club cab with the eco-boost V-6 gas. I bought it precisely for the reason you described , better fuel mileage with capability to haul reasonable loads when needed . Overall I average 18 mpg and can pull and stop a 14,000 lb gooseneck trailer with no problems . Truck is equipped with trailer package . Very happy with performance . I ran 3/4 ton gas before at 10 mpg that couldn't pull much more.

[Pine Ridge]

3/4 ton at least or you won't be satisfied.

[Riwaka]

Used pickups - salt rusted?  gasoline vs diesel, fuel freezing point, . replacing exhaust systems on the modern big diesel pickups is expensive.

2019 Ford  F150 3 liter v6 turbo diesel (250 hp, torque 440 ft pnds )rated towing is around 11K lbs, dodge 1500 2nd gen diesel 3 liter v6 260 hp and 480 ft lbs?. GM new 3 liter delayed till 2020.
Ford 5 liter V8 gasoline engine has been okay with regular service.
The eco diesel settlement   https://www.ecodieselsettlement.com/

Lots of different hitch types.
lippert
RV Pin Boxes | Lippert Components, Inc

reese
Reese!CG58dM6TdDiQ1Q5PYTLBv!%7ClpwXCU


andersen
Andersen Hitches | Trailer Hitches, Ball Mount Hitches


Gives some idea on goose trailer weights - 2600 lb 20 foot etc.
Car Trailers - Gooseneck Car Trailers - 3112 Car Trailer



Towing is mostly about balance and weight distribution (and braking) , 2 X 5000lb short logs in rear receiver hitch trailer with single tire tandem axles.

Husband & Wife Unload Big Oak Logs For Wood-Mizer - YouTube

[WDH]

My 20' gooseneck with a 5' dovetail weighs 4250 pounds empty and rated loaded at 14,000 pounds.  So, the trailer can handle a payload just a bit less than 10,000 pounds or 5 tons.  My 2013 Ford F150 4x4 gas with ecoboost is rated for 18,000 pounds Gross Vehicle Weight.  I can only load the trailer to a bit over half its rated capacity and still be legal.  The truck will pull it, but it groans and sighs some.  If you want to load the trailer to its capacity, you will have to have a larger truck like the F250.  My Ram 2500 diesel can handle the trailer fully loaded and pulls it with ease.  The Ram diesel gets 20 - 22 mpg on the highway without a trailer.  The smaller F150 gas with 6 cylinder ecoboost only gets 16 - 17 mpg without a trailer.  The bigger truck gets way better mileage.

[Crusarius]

My only advice is to consider not if the truck can pull the load, but can it stop it. Just because it can pull it doesn't mean it should.

I agree with the above statement!!!!! It is something i have been saying for years.

I also agree with Ellmoe

I have a 2015 F-150 super crew short bed. normal driving to and from work (country roads lots of hills) I am about 20 mpg. highway I have seen as high as 28. If it is all highway. The truck has the "max tow package" and is rated to tow 13000 lbs. Oh yea, I have the 3.5 ecoboost.

I am still a very strong believer of just because you can doesn't mean you should.

The heaviest load I had behind it was a 14k bumper pull equipment trailer with a 3.5 ton mini excavator. Total of about 10000 pounds. Going up hill the truck laughed at the load. But in the flats and downhill I could tell the tail was wagging the dog. Overall though the truck handled it like a champ. I was quite impressed at how well it pulled. If I had balanced the load a little better it probably would have been much better. But stopping it was still a challenge.

Truck unloaded rides great and I do not regret buying it at all. I really did not like ford for the longest time but they were the only ones who would deal with me so I ended up with one. Out of all the trucks I have been in the ford cabs are by far the nicest.

I do want to put airbags in the back since I am finding myself hauling more heavy stuff now that the truck has proven itself to me. 

The last big tow I did was a 22' enclosed aluminum trailer with my 4300 pound rockcrawler in it. I towed it from New York to Pennsylvania through the hills. I was roughly 16 mpg. Funny thing was the trailer loaded or unloaded towed exactly the same behind the truck. The billboard of an enclosed trailer effected it more than the load.

I would still prefer a bigger diesel for towing real loads but for the occasional towing I do the F-150 is perfect combination between driver and work truck.

[btulloh]

Good advise above.  I think a gooseneck on a 1/2 ton pickup is not the best match for all the reasons mentioned.  I have an F150 and use a 16ft flatbed with the receiver hitch.  It's a good combo since the weight of the trailer doesn't eat into the GVWH to bad.  I use a load leveling hitch, which really helps a lot with heavier loads.  If I was towing max weight a lot I would want the 3/4 ton truck though.  I would also say that 16ft is too short, although I get by with it.  I should have gotten an 18 or 20ft trailer.

[btulloh]

I'm impressed with some of the towing capacity and mileage for these newer 1/2 tons.  Mine is a 2007 5.4 gas and gets 14 mph with nothing behind it.  Towing a good load, the gas mileage is frightening and makes me think there's a hole in the tank.

[jdonovan]

Take a look at real numbers for a 2019 ford F150 https://www.fleet.ford.com/towing-guides/Page 16 is very interesting. Max towing.
F150 - conventional - 13,200
F150 - 5th wheel - 12,100
Now there is A LOT of variance on tow ratings depending on cab style, engine size, axle ratio etc.. my quick scan shows that for same model/configuration there is very little change in tow rating based on hitch type. It looks like the max GCWVR is what limits the trailer weight on a 150.
So I do not see a large capacity gain based on hitch style on the 150 class truck. When you go to a 250/350, there is a HUGE gain in trailer load by going to a in-bed hitch, but you've already said you don't want that large of a truck, so that is off the table.
Having pulled a lot of conventional and gooseneck/5th wheel trailer miles. I'll say without a doubt the in bed hitch is a nicer ride. There is less porpoising, a tighter turn radius, smoother ride, better tracking of the trailer. These benefits really became noticeable as my trailer weights went up. 
The down side is you almost completely loose the bed for cargo when towing, unless you have a in bed camera, you'll make multiple attempts to get the truck aligned under the trailer.
When I was towing 6-7k on a conventional hitch I didn't have much complaint, but as I shifted to 12-14k trailers, it became much more of a problem, even with a weight distributing hitch. That 12-14k trailer pushed me up into a in-bed hitch, and at that point my ride improved noticeably. Now I'm routinely moving 20-25k trailers. 
One thing we have not touched on is trailer weight. There is a lot of steel in the hitch assembly to get to a 5th wheel or gooseneck hitch. Those trailers tend to be heavier than the same size conventional trailer, so you wind up eating 1000-2000lbs in added trailer weight, for no gain in payload.
If you have any other questions, drop me a PM, I'll be happy to answer.

[Southside]

One thing to keep in mind is the rating for the receiver hitch and stinger.  A buddy of mine bought a 4500 Dodge to haul his min-ex around with a conventional trailer, something like 12.5K gross.  Got looking things over and factory installed receiver hitch was not rated for over 10K.  Truck might be rated to tow the load but if the links in the chain are weak then that is the real limit.  Knowing New York I suspect the bears in the chicken coops all know to look at the hitch ratings.  

To answer the primary question, once you go to a goose you will never want to tow a conventional trailer again.  Ride quality, backing ease, tight cornering, etc.  You just need enough of a horse in front of that cart to make it work.  

[charles mann]

At some point you'll want/require a bigger tck, which then you'll want/require a bigger trailer. I started out with a 14k 20' gn pulled with a dodge 3500 dually gasser. MPGs sucked, carrying capacity sucked, length sucked. While deployed i put back a lot of $$$ to put down on a 3rd gen dodge diesel 3/4 and then came down on orders again, so i decided to go back to iraq instead korea. I sold the lite weight, short gn and bought a 24k 30+5. Max loaded was all the suspension could carry on the 3/4tn, so i traded up for a1 tn srw, now iv got a dually and regret not stepping up to the 12k axels. Basically, i wanted, like you, minus caring about mpg, to start out small size, but now maxed out and wanting more. My next set up will be a 5tn mil wrecker/crane with a 40k pintle trailer. MPG will suck on that 5tn, but calculating the multiple trips with a lite wt. set up, it'll cost more in the end. 

As for backing under a gn, iv found using a reference point of a grease pencil line on the rear window, marking center of the bed, then line the hitch tube up with that line and 99.99% of the time, all i have to do is either back up further or pull back forward to couple on. Iv been doing that for bout 12 yrs now, but before, i would reference the trailer sides and the tck body to "center" up. 

When deciding tck trailer factors, plan (3-5yrs) for future expansion/improvements. As others have said, tongue wt. plays a big factor and a gn has a much heavier tongue than a bumper, yet a bumper if harder to get the load centered, but iv had to readjust my loads on a gn too to improve ride, handling and legalities. A gasser can do the job, but pushing it to its limits will prematurely cause failure. Just hope the tck is still under warranty. 

[charles mann]

Adding to southside about conventional v. gn. I coupled under my 14k bumper yesterday to get get 300# of steel, a bit of over kill, but the bumper weighs 2800#, as where my gn weighs 7000#. Backing the bumper into its spot, its like i hadnt ever backed before, mostly bc at work, its gn and i regularly pull my gn at hm. With as much as it gets used, iv been seriously thinking of selling the bumper pull and building a pipe rack on my tck to go get lite wt. steel orders. 1 less set of tires, registration, repairs and space conservation i think outweigh the need for the trailer. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Wow, all good stuff, thanks folks. As usual with these threads, one silly question generates two better ones. First, a slight refinement. My needs are to only move a couple of logs loads a year and these will be select logs I specifically want. I do not intend to be hauling logs regularly. This is why I don't need to max it out on weight, but I do want a rig that can handle the weight safely so a little overkill in the trailer and hitch will allow a smaller truck to control it better. Stopping is of course very important to me, even though I did not mention it in the OP. I cannot afford to buy new or order a specific truck, I am looking at newer used with the right stuff already in them. Although a diesel is out because I don't want the ongoing cost, noise, stink (I have medical issues with diesel exhaust), etc. But I would consider going to a 250/2500 if I find the right combination. I've had a 2500 before. i'll take my time shopping around.

 First question: In my ignorance, I did not realized there is a difference in the hitches for a gooseneck and a 5th wheel. Can somebody give me the cliff notes version with some general pros and cons (cost being just one)? Unless I get really lucky, I figured I would be installing this myself.

I'll hold the second question until I have done more reading on all the links that were offered. Thank you all. By tonight I should be a little smarter.

[jdonovan]

Very few utility/equipment trailers use 5th wheel hitches. Most use gooseneck
Many travel/camping trailers use 5th wheel hitches, very few use gooseneck

Depending on the style, it is possible to convert some trailers from one style to the other.

gooseneck puts a ball into the bed of the truck, looks just like the ball on the bumper hitch.

a 5th wheel has a flat plate with a V notch at the rear where the trailers king pin slides into.

pictures and some explanations.

What Are The Differences Between Gooseneck vs 5th Wheel? - Outdoorscart

[charles mann]

5th wheels for light/med duty rigs generally have a lower tow rating, or at least those that iv found, such as reese and b&w. any 18 wheeler running up/down the roads, either bobtailed, or in combo are 5th wheel. a circle with a notch cut out it and some locking jaws on the underside to grab the king pin ( a 3-4" ish diameter round bar stock with a groove machined into it to to be grabbed by the jaws of the fish wheel. 

there are conversion as stated previously, and for the majority, as stated, travel trailers are 5th, with a conversion to use a gn tube. i rarely see a utility trailer except for hotshot rigs, having a big truck 5th wheel, converted to a 5th wheel. those that i have seen are generally folks with a travel trailer and use their gn on rare instances and the need to rmv the 5th wheel assembly evidently outweighs the gn frequency of use. 

would it not be cheaper to get a fuel economy 1/2tn and the pay someone to haul the logs, compared to buying a trailer, bumper or gn, then the upkeep, registration and so forth? not sure of your area and where the trailer will be stored, but minimal use of my bumper, and at times, my gn, in 9yrs of the gn and 8 of the bumper, have rotted out the tires in half that time. i know sun exposure is bad for tires, so i figured park in the hay field and let the grass grow around the tires to shade them, but then being parked in dirt/mud it seemed was just as detrimental to the tires.   

as cheap as i am, and if your requirements of 1 to 2 loads a yr, and by "contracting" the haul, if someone is able to carry more per load, you may be able to make those 2 loads into 1, or possibly increase your loads to meet potential future expansion, i would just hire someone.

 i can understand health issues with certain things, and i couldn't afford a cab tractor, plus where i take my tractor at times, i fear i would bust the windows out or puncture the roof with tree limbs, yet cutting grass/hay, it sets my allergies off so bad, it swells my eyes shut, which then i can't effectively do my job that pays the bills. so i opted to where, literally a military gas mask. i just can't do that at my job, and there are times that i can't do my job bc the winds change directions and bring in the smoke from the nearby fires, bringing with it, something in the air that sets my allergies off, so I'm stuck on desk duty, instead of wrenching and supervising. it is pure misery when my allergies get that bad. 

[LeeB]

I bet you really have a blast in Central Texas cedar season.

[Southside]

If you are not specing a new truck then make sure it has the tow package - including an auxiliary transmission cooler and a transmission which can handle the weight or you will get into trouble.  Ask me how I know.   

[btulloh]

Roger that. There's a big range of tow capacity in 1/2 tons and you must choose wisely.

[LeeB]

Very valid point about the tranny. I have a 3/4 ton 2nd gen Dodge that is a great truck but can't drag a wet sack without overheating. Probably would do great with a different rear end but then it wouldn't get 22 mpg. My other Dodge has a six speed manual and will pull the world backwards without a hiccup. 

[Crusarius]

Keeping the tranny cool is key. Overheating or running tranny hot will shorten its life treemendously

Pun intended

[charles mann]

I bet you really have a blast in Central Texas cedar season.

actually, that does NOT bother me for some reason. my wife on the other hand, yep, puts her down like the sage brush in the rockies and west coast. something with the foundry dust her dad brought hm form the foundry he and i worked at messed her up. something in a burn pit in iraq back in 08 got me. 

[Old Greenhorn]

If you are not specing a new truck then make sure it has the tow package - including an auxiliary transmission cooler and a transmission which can handle the weight or you will get into trouble.  Ask me how I know.  

Yes SS, that is exactly it. I will do some shopping for the right stuff. Still reading up and learning a lot as I go. This will help me find the right truck before I make a mistake. Everything is open right now. I am pretty set on the goose neck now that I know more and assuming I follow through. I REALLY appreciate all the help and knowledge here. It would have taken me days to do all the research and I still would not have the real time experience being offered up.

[LeeB]

My goose neck trailer is 20 + 5 ft overall and I like the length but there are times when I also wish I had one a few feet shorter. I also wish I had spent a few more bucks and gotten a little heavier duty trailer. Max payload is 11,120#.

[sawguy21]

I have some exxperience pulling goose neck and fifth wheel, some of it not good. Either style puts about 20% of the weight on the pin compared to around 10% for a properly loaded tag along. You will quickly exceed the payload capacity of an F-150/1500 if you are not careful. I know many of us go where angels fear to tread with trailers and have gotten away with it but it can and will bite you especially if you meet up with a truck cop.
We towed a 14,000# gn behind a single rear wheel one ton, the truck was junk after 3 years. Granted little of that was highway.

[Ljohnsaw]

It has been a long time but I think you will also see the load capacity of a gn to be much less than a 5th.  Back when we had horses, my wife kept wanting a bigger, better trailer.  Had a 2 horse straight bumper pull but needed to haul 3 or more.  Found a 4 h straight bumper pull but our 1500 Chevy made it feel like dragging the Titanic.  Found a 3 h slant bumper that was better.  Finally got a 3 h slant gn.  While my wife could back the bumper pull trailers, parking at the ranch was a challenge.  With the gn, she could do it all.  

Now on the hitch, we opted for a disappearing hitch.  EDIT: Gn 5th hitches take up your bed when not towing and are a pain to remove.  The disappearing hitch you pulled a pin from the wheel well to release the ball.  You lift it out, flip it over and drop it back in the hole.  Now you have a clean bed to use.  A really nice feature.  The trailer was an aluminum one so IIRC it was about 3,000# (really light) and loaded we were probably pushing (pulling) 7,500# (1993 Z71 truck rating and the hitch rating was probably just a tad more).  It hauled great.

[firefighter ontheside]

Exactly what sawguy said.  A gooseneck may not be a great idea for you.  For the same length trailer, the gn itself is heavier.  They are designed to carry 20% of the load on the tongue.  This is the reason I went from a 3/4 ton truck to a 1 ton.  My 10,000lb fifth wheel camper was technically not too heavy for the truck, but the tongue weight was too much payload.

For what you're talking about doing, I don't see why a carhauler trailer with tandem 3500 axles wouldn't be perfect for you.  1/2 ton truck with a brake controller and brakes on your trailer.  I love my 1 ton truck, but for logs I use a 10,000 trailer that is 16' plus 2' dovetail.  Carries all the logs I need.

[firefighter ontheside]

If you're gonna get a gn, as John says, the B&W turnover ball is the way to go.  That's what I have.   I can tow a gn if I want, but I have the B&W companion fifth wheel hitch that also attaches to it.

[charles mann]

It has been a long time but I think you will also see the load capacity of a gn to be much less than a 5th.  Back when we had horses, my wife kept wanting a bigger, better trailer.  Had a 2 horse straight bumper pull but needed to haul 3 or more.  Found a 4 h straight bumper pull but our 1500 Chevy made it feel like dragging the Titanic.  Found a 3 h slant bumper that was better.  Finally got a 3 h slant gn.  While my wife could back the bumper pull trailers, parking at the ranch was a challenge.  With the gn, she could do it all.  

Now on the hitch, we opted for a disappearing hitch.  Gn hitches take up your bed when not towing and are a pain to remove.  

5th wheels seem to take up more room than a gn, but both are a pain when need a relatively flat surface for hauling. Yet, like you said, them hide-a-hitch gn balls are worth the $350-$600. This round on my 2018, i opted for the pre installed in bed system, yet i didnt know i had to buy the ball and safety chain devices separately. 
Every 5th wheel system for these smaller tcks seem to be less on towing capacity @ 25,000# as where my gn system is rated @ 30,000#. 
The old dough nut hitches had a 35,000# rating, but evidently are thing of the past. Those are about as common as an honest politician nowadays. 

[TKehl]

With a gooseneck and under bed mount, you pull a lever under the fender, then pull the ball out and have a fairly flat bed floor.  5th wheel will have tracks in the bed and a larger thing to take out if you need a flat bed again.  

We overloaded 1/2 ton trucks on the farm for years before stepping up to 3/4 and 1 ton trucks.  Great move for us.  I was going to try to talk you into a 3/4 ton truck, but for your use, it does sound like a 1/2 ton would be suited.  I would try and get a factory tow package.  Beyond a hitch, it will usually give you a transmission cooler and sometimes bigger radiator.  

One thing to think about is terrain.  Bed sides have been getting taller.  There are places I have to watch to make sure the trailer tounge doesn't hit the bed side when the truck is tilted left and trailer right or vice versa.  A flatbed cures this, but more $ on a 1/2 ton (unless you can buy a 1/2 ton cab and chassis... I've never tried...).

I still have to say that 3/4 ton equipment is made for more severe duty with 1/2 tons being "Cowboy Cadillacs".  Better transmissions, brakes, springs, etc.  1/2 ton components just haven't lasted as long for us.  But being in NY, with occasional use, it may still rust out before you wear it you.   ;)  :D  ;D

[alan gage]

I pull a 14k 20' gooseneck. I started with an old 3/4 ton chevy with a 350. The trailer itself weighs about 4000 pounds and you could really tell even empty when connected to the truck. It could pull the trailer with a full load of logs or an 8000# tractor on it but it wasn't happy at all and topped out at about 45mph (and dropping going uphill). Suspension-wise and brake-wise it was fine. Just not enough power.

I found a '95 3/4 Ram with V10 and that has no problem pulling the trailer no matter how heavy I load it up. Very happy with that combination.

I don't need the truck to pull the trailer a lot but it sure is nice to have when I do. Picking up logs is a snap and dragging the skid loader back and forth between locations is a breeze.

Gas mileage is, obviously, terrible. And since it's old with higher miles I know it's on borrowed time. So the truck only gets a few thousand miles/year, if that. Otherwise I'm in my Corolla. I don't see the need to drive it when I don't need it. Replacing that truck will be much more expensive than replacing the Corolla. And the Corolla has a lot more miles left in it than the truck does. It's cheaper to own both.

It's tough because if you want a flat deck (deckover) you're looking at a big heavy trailer. A lighter trailer, better able to be pulled by a 1/2 ton engine, is going to have a lower deck between the wheels, which will make it harder to load/unload.

I really like the gooseneck but from what you've described so far I'd probably be looking at a bumper pull and a lighter trailer. I'd also be looking for a Corolla.

Alan

[Nebraska]

I'd vote for keeping the little truck as your daily driver and finding an old 1ton with a dump bed, ok I know not a goose neck option but it would be nice haul a few short logs and dump them off or a little rock from the gravel pit here and there. (Just my silly want) Is an older beater 3/4 -1 ton an option? I have one whom I don't drive daily just hauls for me a 2001 7.3 diesel, I dont want to be without  it. Yes I fix on it here and there but way cheaper than buying a newer one.
I have a flip over type ball on mine but the B&W type setup is nicer, mine is sometime a pain if I haul plywood or pallets of stuff since it has a plate that sticks up a little.

[scsmith42]

Old GH,

I've towed gooseneck trailers for almost 40 years and presently own three.  Here is my 2 cents.

First - you can evaluate a potential tow vehicle in three ways.

• Ability of the truck to pull the load.  This means engine capacity, transmission capacity, hitch strength, rear end ratio, etc.
• Ability of the truck to stop the load.  This equates to brake and tire capacity.
• Ability of the truck to handle the physical weight on the tow truck itself (tongue weight).  Tire weight rating plays a role here along with axle capacity.

In general, using a gooseneck hitch instead of a tag-along serves to increase #3 above by one truck size.  IE a 1/2 ton truck pulling a gooseneck is almost equal to a 3/4 ton truck with respect to #3 above.  This is because a higher tongue weight can be distributed across both tow vehicle axles, instead of being cantilevered via the rear mounted trailer hitch.

A gooseneck will help you slightly with stopping, only because of the better weight transfer to the front end and brakes.  However the benefit is slight - maybe 10% - 20% improvement over tag-along.

A gooseneck will not help you at all with respect to #1, and that's your weak link with respect to the tow vehicle.

If you really want to use a 1/2 ton truck to pull a gooseneck, I'd strongly recommend that you upgrade your trailer brakes to hydraulic ones with an electrically operated master cylinder on the trailer.  These are hands down the very best brakes that you can get for a small or mid sized trailer (10 ton and under).  These will significantly compensate for any deficiencies in #2 above, which means that your primary risk is damaging your vehicle from overloading the engine / tranny, as opposed to putting other drivers at risk by not being able to stop the load.

YMMV - just my 2 cents.  Personally I really like goosenecks due to the superior handling and especially the maneuverability.

[dgdrls]

I have a similar situation, I have a full size 1/2 ton with a V-6 its a grocery getter commuter 90% of the time.
This year I purchased a 10K 16' deckover twin axle with brakes on both axles.
I have pulled a few loads already and some loads in the past with a smaller trailer.

I'm looking to do what Alan Gage does,  3/4 or 1 ton when I need it and a commuter car.

Best
D

[TimW]

Another item to note..............most all 1/2 ton pickups are short wheel base.  Short wheel base and a gooseneck are limited in turning (as far as a long wheel base truck) if you have a deck over the gooseneck, or an enclosed GN like a horse trailer.
   I have pulled 14k and 22k gooseneck trailers with a Dodge 2500 and a 3500.  I wouldn't pull anything over a 16 foot lowboy with a 1500.  Just not enough weight to stop suddenly on a wet road.  If that hasn't happened before, it will.
hugs,  Brandi

[TKehl]

most all 1/2 ton pickups are short wheel base

I should add that you should measure the bed.  Recently had a guy come buy some stock racks.  He had a F150 "Longbed".  Turns out the longbed on a that model is only 7' long.  :D

My F350 rarely goes anywhere without a load.  When my wife got a new minivan, I got the old one.  Have always had a reliable little beater gas sipper that gets most of the miles.  Like Alan said, it's cheaper to have two even with insurance and upkeep.  Also gives a backup vehicle if one needs repairs.  Granted, they are both older cars.  My F350 is a 93, but has the 460, 5 speed, and 4x4.  It will pull most anything I want to pull.  MPG sucks, but it doesn't get a lot of miles on it and only have $4k in it including the plow.  ;)  

[TimW]

most all 1/2 ton pickups are short wheel base

  Turns out the longbed on a that model is only 7' long.  :D

That is definitely fuzzy math and :D. 
hugs,  Brandi

[reride82]

OG,

I have what most would consider to be a heavy half ton with a gooseneck hitch and receiver hitch. Now, it is rated around 350 HP and 380 ft-lbs of torque with a heavier duty transmission with cooler and 4.11 rear axle, but it is the suspension that is lacking. It came with four wheel disk brakes and I have trailer brakes as well. I've had it as heavy as 21k gross weight, but would never do that again. It is fairly comfortable up to 16-17k gross weight with a gooseneck(about 7-8k payload), and 14-15k gross weight with a bumper pull trailer(6-7k payload). It is an older 6.0 GMC gasser that can get 18 mpg if I'm not loaded and don't drive like an angry teenager :D Most of the time with a trailer it gets 14-15 mpg. Good luck on your search, but my next pickup will be a 3/4 ton at least and I'd prefer a turbo, either gas or diesel 8)

Levi

[Old Greenhorn]

Levi, just to round out the numbers for comparison, do you know what the GCVWR is on your truck? I am trying to correlate some numbers.

[barbender]

My opinion is, physics dictate that whatever trailer you specify, it will pull and handle better in a gooseneck or 5th wheel configuration.

[BargeMonkey]

 Honestly for what your doing, where you live and how much wood your going to haul, buy a nice fuel sipper 1/2ton with the tow package, decent little equipment trailer / car trailer with a couple stake pockets and go with that. The extra couple trips you may make to pick up wood is offset by the fuel and maintenance. Gooseneck / 5th wheel is more money if you register it in NY, you can still get private plates on a 1/2 ton and go downstate without issue. 1/2 ton and a small trailer flys under the DOT radar, big thing to think about anymore. 

[BargeMonkey]

 Call Joe Marchese @ Marchese ford in Lebanon, tell him what your looking for, where we spec all our 1-tons thru, hes probably got what you want sitting there. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Call Joe Marchese @ Marchese ford in Lebanon, tell him what your looking for, where we spec all our 1-tons thru, hes probably got what you want sitting there.

Gonna go see what they have online now. Thanks once again. Just got home from work, what else am I gonna do? I am guessing they are not open now.  ;D

[Old Greenhorn]

Honestly for what your doing, where you live and how much wood your going to haul, buy a nice fuel sipper 1/2ton with the tow package, decent little equipment trailer / car trailer with a couple stake pockets and go with that. The extra couple trips you may make to pick up wood is offset by the fuel and maintenance. Gooseneck / 5th wheel is more money if you register it in NY, you can still get private plates on a 1/2 ton and go downstate without issue. 1/2 ton and a small trailer flys under the DOT radar, big thing to think about anymore.

Of course you are right, but I hate the way those tag-alongs handle with decent weight. 2 good 2,000# logs and I have a load. I am torn on this point. I always wanted a solid trailer and a goose neck would give me that BUT you are correct, I don't have a lot of application for it...yet. I am leaning toward a 250/2500 class because when I retire I won't have the daily commute and when I do make a run, it will be for a reason.
 I looked at Marchese and there wasn't a lot, but he did have a 2010 250 that interested me. Man, that's a long way to go for a truck, even longer for you. You must like the guy. That tells me something.  I am trying not to rush into this. I alwasy have in the past because I HATE shopping (see other thread), but this time I may be buying my last truck and I want to get something I actually like and works for me.

[Puffergas]

The ball GN has better traction on uneven ground. You would want a special made light GN for your truck and it would still weigh more than a tag along. The game is to haul cargo not trailer iron. 5th wheel and GN trailers are easier to hitch up than a tag along. I got tired of avoiding the long arm of the law and sold my GN years ago. Just use a light weight tag along with my car. With a 1/2 ton I would go with about a 5K tag along or a bit more with the right truck.

[reride82]

Levi, just to round out the numbers for comparison, do you know what the GCVWR is on your truck? I am trying to correlate some numbers.

I couldn't find that information specifically, but some spec sheets online show it is rated for a 10K towing capacity.

[Dieseldog5.9]

1/2 ton ford, gcvw 15,000 at best, minus 5k for trailer weight minus 6k for truck weight = 4K capacity. The C in gcvw is for combined and weights of truck and trailer have to be subtracted.  Toyota pulled the space shuttle with a tundra and now every soccer dad is a super trucker.

3/4 ton truck full floating axles. 1/2 ton semi floating axles.  Current trucks all have automatics apparently operating a vehicle is to much trouble for people. And there is a major difference between transmissions that can tow and those that can't, but the horsepower trucks have now make you think they can.  This is part of the reason DOT is cracking down on light trucks. New Diesel engines 400hp and anyone can haul a backhoe.

[scsmith42]

The ball GN has better traction on uneven ground. You would want a special made light GN for your truck and it would still weigh more than a tag along. The game is to haul cargo not trailer iron. 5th wheel and GN trailers are easier to hitch up than a tag along. I got tired of avoiding the long arm of the law and sold my GN years ago. Just use a light weight tag along with my car. With a 1/2 ton I would go with about a 5K tag along or a bit more with the right truck.

That's a sweet looking rig!  Is that an older International 4WD or ???

[florida]

Good info here

Dangerous Trailer Loads: How to Determine if You Are Hauling a Safe Weight