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Author Topic: Black Cherry  (Read 1511 times)

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Online doc henderson

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #20 on: September 11, 2019, 09:31:20 PM »
look back at the pic in reply 8 by MM, the blade is parallel to the crack in the center of the tree.  it might ruin a board or two, but not 8 boards if you had rotated the log 90
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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #21 on: September 11, 2019, 09:40:23 PM »
Nothing Wood-Mizer about it.  Every Cherry log that I have ever sawn has had a "natural" pith check.  Saw vertical to it and every board toward the pith will split apart, sometimes before you can remove it from the sawmill.  Saw horizontal to it and the pith check will be contained within a couple of the center boards.  I have seen the pith check run nearly to the bark and the opening and third face boards split.

Here is an example of one and how I set it up to be sawn:  LINK

Scroll down to Reply #11 in the attached link for another example.
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Offline Don P

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #22 on: September 11, 2019, 10:26:10 PM »
Another case of taking bow over crook.
Cherry beams can also move considerably as they dry but can be interesting and cherry often forks and has some neat curves. This is one idea I mean to get back to, some naturally braced posts. I was in a honey hole of locust a week or so ago getting firewood, old pasture, and it is also full of nicely forked cherry.


 
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Offline Larry

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #23 on: September 11, 2019, 10:42:42 PM »
Sawing parallel to the pith crack definitely results in the highest recovery of wide boards. Unfortunately as one gets closer to the heart, the boards have flat sawn, rift sawn, and quarter sawn grain all in the same board. There is a special name for those boards.

Saw with the pith crack at 45 degrees and it edges out. Takes more time. The boards won't be as wide, but the grain will be consistent flat sawn with a centered cathedral grain pattern.  

I saw both ways, but always get the most pleasing grain patterns out of big logs the second way.  Quality or quantity?

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Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #24 on: September 12, 2019, 09:12:53 AM »
M.M. , You certainly have your own language to describe log sawing. For at least 100 years terms like heart, heart center and tapering have been used in books describing hardwood grade sawing. Most hardwood and spruce logs that I saw have a big check and get turned to try to get as much of the defect in the last board or cant as possible. Your banana peel warning, what is this? Do you mean from not tapering?

Offline Brad_bb

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #25 on: September 12, 2019, 07:20:26 PM »
@Pete and Jesse , Cherry beams for timber framing.  Both square beams and live edge(cut on two sides only) like don P is showing.  Posts, braces, beams etc.




 


 
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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #26 on: September 12, 2019, 08:30:46 PM »
M.M. , You certainly have your own language to describe log sawing.  For at least 100 years.....
I have no idea where that came from because admittedly I have not been around for 100 years.....yet.  Most all of the terms that I use are found in the FF Dictionary above, and all have been gleaned from my experiences while sawing as well as here on the FF.

I though that I explained very well and it is certainly common knowledge here on the FF that I only custom saw for customers and my sawing is geared toward fulfilling their expectations.  In no way have I ever represented myself or my sawing as being the correct or the only way to saw.  It's only one way.  As explained in the "LINK", the turning, face opening, and sawing examples shown were only to provide an example of a way to prevent a log's pith check from ruining lumber and thereby reducing the log's yield.  In the examples shown every board was utilized because the board face opposite the check was clear of any signs of the pith check.

Yes a board, especially a fresh sawn Cherry board that splits apart at the pith will curl toward the bark and my reference to it looking like a banana peel was not too far off.  This experience is what taught me to always orient the logs pith check perpendicular to the blade for the first face opening which would put it horizontal to the blade for the saw through thereby eliminating the possibility of the boards splitting at the pith.

I apologize if my terminology is foreign and not easily understood by your standards, but I can assure you that I strive to use correct English and punctuation to make my contribution here on the FF meaningful to those reading it. 

Now, let's talk about Grits.   ;D 
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Offline thecfarm

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #27 on: September 12, 2019, 09:30:29 PM »
I could and do understand the banana peel reference. I hope I never see one come off my mill. I don't saw much hardwood,so I might just make it. And I don't saw alot. What I have sawn on my mill some saw in a month.
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Offline Pete and Jesse

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #28 on: September 13, 2019, 07:58:31 AM »
@Pete and Jesse , Cherry beams for timber framing.  Both square beams and live edge(cut on two sides only) like don P is showing.  Posts, braces, beams etc.
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)


(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

My limited experience with logs is seeing them as timber and firewood.  Those beams you made I would have just turned into firewood.  If nothing else everyone's suggestions will cause me to look at crotched, crooked and short logs differently. Thank you.

Offline moodnacreek

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #29 on: September 13, 2019, 08:10:33 AM »
Using hardwood forks for decorative posts might be ok but if you have a choice use white pine or cedar as the hardwood may split apart in time.

Online doc henderson

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #30 on: September 13, 2019, 09:43:07 AM »

My limited experience with logs is seeing them as timber and firewood.  Those beams you made I would have just turned into firewood.  If nothing else everyone's suggestions will cause me to look at crotched, crooked and short logs differently. Thank you.
It can be a curse.  my neighbor comes over to have an intervention occ. and take wood scraps off my floor to make bowls and such.  I then take buckets of the scraps he did not want and are left over out to the burn barrel, but am not above snagging something back to save in case it is needed.
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #31 on: September 13, 2019, 12:21:58 PM »
Using hardwood forks for decorative posts might be ok but if you have a choice use white pine or cedar as the hardwood may split apart in time.
Typically wood checks to the heart and relieves that radial/tangential drying stress we've been talking about. It is pretty rare for a timber containing the heart to check through. The check will usually adhere to the rule of least work and pick the shortest or easiest path from that surface to heart. As always, the more you can season it before use the better, it'll show you its intentions.
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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #32 on: September 13, 2019, 11:48:52 PM »
Using hardwood forks for decorative posts might be ok but if you have a choice use white pine or cedar as the hardwood may split apart in time.
What?  Sorry, never seen that happen.  A lotta frames with crotch/forked timbers, and I've never seen a problem.  Regarding Cedar, I would not advise using cedar in a timberframe, too light, not strong enough.  White pine, no problem as long as it's sized appropriately.  
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Offline donbj

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #33 on: September 14, 2019, 12:24:25 AM »
"I apologize if my terminology is foreign and not easily understood by your standards, but I can assure you that I strive to use correct English and punctuation to make my contribution here on the FF meaningful to those reading it. "

You have nothing to apologize for. You are a very valuable contributor.
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Offline Ed_K

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Re: Black Cherry
« Reply #34 on: September 14, 2019, 10:08:29 AM »
 When I was building my cabin yrs ago I pulled some cherry 4/4 boards out of the hay barn at the farm to make cabinet doors out of. After cutting the white wood off an glueing two boards together. I put a finish on them and hung them, in a couple of months they had shrank half an inch. drying for 5 yrs in a hay barn didn't do me any good they should have gone right to a kiln instead of the hay barn. But hey what do a couple of young farmers know (we milked cows) ;D.
Ed K


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