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Getting set up with an Echo CS-590

Started by DMax82, September 10, 2019, 08:26:26 PM

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DMax82

Hey everybody, it's new chainsaw time. I'm replacing a Stihl MS-290 and am convinced that the Echo is the way to go. I just have a couple of questions in regards to getting started. But first I'll give a little background info. 

I've cut a lot of wood over the years, mostly hardwood for firewood. A number of years ago we had a tornado roll through our farm and it uprooted a lot of big cherry, oak, maple, and hickory trees. I had a blast cutting them up. So do feel pretty comfortable using a saw. That said, I really don't know much about saws or chains. I always just bought the cheapest chain and used my one saw as it came out of the box. I am excited about buying the Echo and want to get the most out of it. I am thinking 20" bar. I have a 14" Ryobi that I use for the really small stuff and cutting limbs. 

As I was researching the Echo I saw a lot of talk about muffler mods, adjusting different screws, and the fact that it "runs lean". None of this makes sense to me, other than the fact that many people seem to think that adjusting the saw is necessary for optimum performance. 

I plan on buying one tomorrow and am wondering what I need to ask the dealer to do to it to best set it up? 

My other question involves chains. I will be cutting down a number of hardwood trees usually not larger than 18" and then cutting them up for firewood. What is the best Echo/Oregon chain for this? The trees won't be getting dragged, so dirt shouldn't be an issue. Also, I will be cutting a lot of remnants from a large logging operation near me. That wood will have a lot of dirt in it. What would be the best chain for that? 

Thanks so much, David 

lxskllr

Since you're lacking tuning experience I'd be reluctant to void the warranty, but with the screws, it's common to either remove the limiter caps, or cut the tabs off and put them back. The idea is you can run the high jet in particular richer. If your dealer is especially good, he may take care of proper tuning without you getting your hands dirty(and voiding the warranty). Your choice. I imagine there's many thousands of saws out there running ok with the factory tune, but if you mod the muffler, you'll almost certainly have to adjust the carb beyond stock.

I believe the 20" bar is standard, and imo, the best size for that saw.

Regarding chains... Generally speaking, semi chisel chain cuts slower, but stays sharp longer than full chisel. I'm a fan of semi chisel, and aside from a couple odd loops, it's all I have(to the tune of ~250'). With you're lack of (professional)experience, I'm not sure you'd notice the difference between them, and I think you'd appreciate more the stay sharpness of semi chisel. It's not a huge expense, so you could try a loop of each, and see what you prefer. I prefer Stihl chain by a wide margin, but it is significantly more expensive, especially if your dealer is only list price as my last one was. I've gotten most of mine from ebay, but my new dealer is more reasonable.

edit:
I don't have the most experience here, so take the above for what it's worth. Just some guy on the internet's opinion, and you know what they say about opinions  ;^)

DMax82

Thanks for the detailed reply! I have never dealt with this dealer, but have heard good things and they have good reviews on Google. I'll chat with them tomorrow about tuning the saw. 

Do Stihl chains work without issue on these saws? I was always happy with the Stihl chains I had. 

sawguy21

New tools are always fun. You will like the Echo, fast and a lighter than your 290, but it does need to be properly set up. If your dealer is knowledgeable about tuning have him set it up a little richer, as you suggest they come out of the box lean to satisfy the eco nazis. Then have him tune for optimum performance after 5 or 6 tanks of gas.
There are a number of choices for chain. Oregon offers 72LGX which has rounded cutters, this is not as fast as the 72LPX full chisel but is more forgiving in dirty wood. Stihl 33RM is similar and preferred by many as it holds an edge better but is a bit harder to sharpen. Echo does not manufacture chain.
old age and treachery will always overcome youth and enthusiasm

lxskllr

Any brand of chain will function correctly as long as the dimensions are correct, eg gauge, drive link count, and pitch. Brand is personal preference. I like Stihl because of the hardness of the cutters. Second favorite is Carlton, with Oregon in last place. There's also numerous Chinese brands that I haven't tried. Very attractive prices, but field reports from users seem highly variable. They range junk-great value. Dunno. If I were on a budget, Carlton makes a nice reliable chain at a good enough price. Shaving a few dollars off that isn't worth the risk to me.

ladylake


 Take a look at the deflector on the muffler, it has a opening about the size of a pea.  Open that up a bunch and make sure its tuned good, not running lean.  Steve
Timberking B20  18000  hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

DMax82

Thanks again guys! Super excited about getting this saw today. I called the dealer to confirm that he has it in stock. Will probably end up buying different several chains to get a feel for what I like best. 

DMax82

Well, picked up the saw this afternoon. Not super impressed with the dealer, but oh well. He had no chains in stock, so I guess I'll be ordering them online. He also told me that there was absolutely nothing he or I could do to adjust anything related to how the saw runs. Is he full of it? Kind of regretting buying from him.

lxskllr

Yea, he's absolutely full of it. The screws as-is have some adjustment in them. A good dealer will check the tuning, and pull the limiter caps if necessary to get a good tune. What you could do, and is easy, is turn the high jet anticlockwise til it hits the stop. That'll make it as rich as can be made with the limiters in place. I'd then research saw tuning by ear. See if you can find some good videos that demonstrate what it should sound like. When you think you've got it, you can adjust and/or mod the saw as much as you're comfortable if desired.

Tropical Sawyer

I'm not sure if you've already found it, but there is some really good information on the website below.

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

If in doubt, just tune it a little rich and sacrifice some performance.
Woodland Mills HM130, Stihl ms310 and ms660, Granberg chainsaw mill, 3 ton Kobelco excavator, 1 ton Chinese front-end loader.
New to sawmilling but have been chainsawing for a few years.

DMax82

Quote from: lxskllr on September 11, 2019, 05:12:45 PM
Yea, he's absolutely full of it. The screws as-is have some adjustment in them. A good dealer will check the tuning, and pull the limiter caps if necessary to get a good tune. What you could do, and is easy, is turn the high jet anticlockwise til it hits the stop. That'll make it as rich as can be made with the limiters in place. I'd then research saw tuning by ear. See if you can find some good videos that demonstrate what it should sound like. When you think you've got it, you can adjust and/or mod the saw as much as you're comfortable if desired.
That is what I was afraid of. Part of me wants to return the saw and buy from somebody else. There are a couple of other dealers nearby, including one that is a "Signature Elite" dealer. 

Quote from: Tropical Sawyer on September 11, 2019, 07:30:10 PM
I'm not sure if you've already found it, but there is some really good information on the website below.

http://www.madsens1.com/saw_carb_tune.htm

If in doubt, just tune it a little rich and sacrifice some performance.

Thanks for the link! I'll look it over and see how I can adjust things. 

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