The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

iDRY Vacuum Kilns


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills



Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Norwood Industries Inc.




Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

Michigan Firewood, your BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

FARMA


Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat

iDRY Wood Lumber Vacuum Drying for everyon

Nyle Kiln Dry Systems

Chainsawr, The Worlds Largest Inventory of Chainsaw Parts





Author Topic: B20 Electrical  (Read 291 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline TGS

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 97
    • Share Post
B20 Electrical
« on: September 15, 2019, 01:47:14 PM »
I'm having issues with my old B20 and I'm needing some help. When I first started today, the head would go down but not up. That's not exactly been an uncommon problem over the years. There is no question that my wire reel is worn out. When I disassembled it to clean the contacts most of them were worn through enough that they snapped off at the ends. I still get solenoids clicking when I press up or down on the switch, but the head doesn't move. I took the cover off of the terminal box and although I can get the solenoids to click by jumping from A-B or A-C, the head still doesn't move. I'm at a loss and was hoping someone could give me some ideas while I have time to work on it today.

Many thanks.

Online ladylake

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 5138
  • Age: 67
  • Location: grey eagle mn
  • Gender: Male
  • I need to edit my profile!
    • Share Post
Re: B20 Electrical
« Reply #1 on: September 15, 2019, 02:08:53 PM »

 A to E makes it go down.  Make sure the bottom or upper limit switch isn't stuck or a broken wire.. First thing to eliminate the motor is to take some battery cables and jump from your pickup, positive on one wire negative on the other and switch them for the opposite direction right at the motor..  Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline TGS

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 97
    • Share Post
Re: B20 Electrical
« Reply #2 on: September 15, 2019, 04:48:00 PM »
Ok, I wanted to come back and address what issues I found, in case someone has something similar in the future. When I took the inspection plates off of the electric motor I found that the galvanized mount that held the brushes was corroded and not allowing the brushes to move freely. I also found that connectors between the motor and power-in were melted. With ladylake's suggestion I cut these connections and wired the motor directly to 12v. It would cycle, but it was sluggish. I pulled the back plate off of the motor and found that it had a molded inset where the spindle bearing would sit. I found that my bearing on that spindle had seized and the entire bearing was turning inside of the molded inset. It also made me assume that the added electrical load and friction from that seized bearing is what caused the melting. I bored a 1/16" hole into the seal of the bearing and shot it with some PB blaster. A little persuasion with a pair of channel locks got the bearing loosened up. I kept shooting pb blaster and turning the bearing until rusty pb blaster stopped pouring out. I followed up with some spray white lithium into the same hole. 

I reassembled the motor and found that I had regained downward movement of the head at a satisfactory speed; Up movement was still not working through the switch, though I could activate it with direct wire to 12v. The travel speed in the up direction still felt sluggish. I got down and started hitting the up switch and eventually it started moving up, but it was agonizingly slow. 

That's where I'm at now. I wonder if the increased amp draw didn't smoke some of the windings or otherwise reduce the life of the motor. 

Online ladylake

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 5138
  • Age: 67
  • Location: grey eagle mn
  • Gender: Male
  • I need to edit my profile!
    • Share Post
Re: B20 Electrical
« Reply #3 on: September 15, 2019, 05:01:00 PM »

 It could have smoked the winding but if your getting good up speed with booster cables hooked right to the motor it would be a bad solenoid or fried wire in the solenoid box or may just a bad connection.  Sometimes just tapping on the solenoids with a hammer will make them work again.  Steve
Timberking B20 14000 hours +  Case75xt grapple + forks+8" snow bucket + dirt bucket   770 Oliver   Lots(too many) of chainsaws, Like the Echo saws and the Stihl and Husky     W5  Case loader   1  trailers  Wright sharpener     Suffolk  setter Volvo MCT125c skid loader

Offline dchiapin

  • Full Member
  • **
  • Posts: 88
  • Age: 71
  • Location: Melrose, Fl
  • Gender: Male
  • TK B-20
    • Share Post
Re: B20 Electrical
« Reply #4 on: September 15, 2019, 05:38:54 PM »
I had the same problem, except it was not happening all the time but intermittent. Mike at TK talked me through a bunch of trouble shooting. First his suspect was a bad solenoid. Yep replace the one he said was bad. Next day quit again. Bad up/down switch, replaced it. Next day same thing. Faulty motor, took it off and had it rebuilt, worked fine for a few days. Yep again it happened.
Since I had replaced the reel with a commercial reel I did not suspect that to be the problem. Wrong. The wires inside the cable had started to loose (for some reason) the insulation and where on occasion rubbing against another bare wire as the cable would go past each other.
Patched the uninsulated areas with electrical tape. Fixed it now for almost a year. Still on my have to list is replace the reel (again)

Offline luap

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 327
  • Location: western Upper Penninsula
  • Gender: Male
  • Not as good as I once was
    • Share Post
Re: B20 Electrical
« Reply #5 on: September 16, 2019, 12:54:20 PM »
I had the same problem, except it was not happening all the time but intermittent. Mike at TK talked me through a bunch of trouble shooting. First his suspect was a bad solenoid. Yep replace the one he said was bad. Next day quit again. Bad up/down switch, replaced it. Next day same thing. Faulty motor, took it off and had it rebuilt, worked fine for a few days. Yep again it happened.
Since I had replaced the reel with a commercial reel I did not suspect that to be the problem. Wrong. The wires inside the cable had started to loose (for some reason) the insulation and where on occasion rubbing against another bare wire as the cable would go past each other.
Patched the uninsulated areas with electrical tape. Fixed it now for almost a year. Still on my have to list is replace the reel (again)
I have found liquid electric tape to be ideal for these situations. I have even used rubber windshield sealant with good results.


Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

xx
Electrical transformer question (paging our electrical folks!)

Started by scsmith42 on Alternative methods and solutions

21 Replies
3380 Views
Last post October 05, 2012, 09:49:57 PM
by Al_Smith
xx
Bad day for ElectricAl

Started by ElectricAl on General Board

13 Replies
1802 Views
Last post August 12, 2004, 03:12:56 PM
by Kevin_H.
xx
electrical diy

Started by pineywoods on General Board

3 Replies
387 Views
Last post April 04, 2017, 12:38:20 PM
by Kbeitz
xx
LT 40 electrical

Started by autotomk on Sawmills and Milling

11 Replies
871 Views
Last post August 18, 2018, 11:02:11 PM
by Colonel_O
 


Powered by EzPortal