Author Topic: Sharpening bandsaw blades on my radial arm saw (Read 7741 times)

Kcwoodbutcher · « **Reply #40 on:** June 05, 2014, 09:09:12 PM »

Finally getting around to posting pics of the cam lock.

The construction is simple. The movable block has an oversized hole which the bolt goes through, it is not tight . The block is held captive between the two pieces of 7/8" bar stock. The cam is simply a piece of bar stock with the hole drilled off center with a handle welded on. You can put a lot of pressure on the blade with little effort. Using this setup I've eve taken a fine tooth blade for my vertical bandsaw and converted it to a coarse tooth blade (don't recommend this,way too much trouble).

36 coupe · « **Reply #41 on:** June 06, 2014, 05:44:32 AM »

Quote from: hackberry jake on June 05, 2014, 05:26:35 PM

It was too heavy. If you grind too heavy the blade will bow from the heat and will have a less than straight edge. First try at it though. Next time I dull them out I will definately use a lighter grind.

My planer knife grinder has a pressure screw every 2.5 inches.That keeps the knife straight while grinding.Takes longer to light grind but results are better.

36 coupe · « **Reply #42 on:** June 06, 2014, 05:53:55 AM »

Quote from: nrp0450 on June 02, 2014, 08:04:39 PM

I had read about sharpening bandsaws on a radial arm saw on here so I decided to give it a try. I ordered a grinding stone wide enough to get the whole profile in one pass. An extra 4x6 with a groove cut in it holds the band. And I put together an indexer with random parts I found in the shop.
Here's a pic just before I started shaping the stone:
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

And here's the stone pretty close to ready:
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

And here's a video putting a blade in it and sharpening a few teeth.
http://youtu.be/p8NYwyp6k0k

It seems to work well and only takes a few minutes to do one blade. I haven't decided if I'm going to put some kind of shield between me and the stone or just always stand to the side when I start it.

I have found many grinding wheels that are out of balance.Not out of round but out of balance.Wheels like this will have a lot of vibration at 3450 rpm.I use a mower knife balancer to check all wheels .

WillWarner · « **Reply #43 on:** June 10, 2014, 05:43:39 PM »

where did you get your tools for shaping the grinding stone and how long does it take to form the stone profile?

Kcwoodbutcher · « **Reply #44 on:** June 10, 2014, 08:18:22 PM »

You use a diamond dressing tool. It's just a small diamond brazed on the end of a metal rod. I got mine at ENCO. They are not very expensive.

red · « **Reply #45 on:** January 03, 2016, 08:59:10 PM »

Has there been any new ideas ?

Kbeitz · « **Reply #46 on:** January 03, 2016, 11:37:18 PM »

First I've seen this and I like it.
I do all my sharpening on bandsaw blads with my dremel.

OffGrid973 · « **Reply #47 on:** November 04, 2019, 11:43:58 PM »

Didn’t see any replies to the “...stand in the middle...” so just wanted to say Bad Idea.

I gave away my radial when it caught a piece and took off (old school model) and after that I grabbed a new sliding chop saw instead (which has limits).

Be safe, but great build, very impressive.

luap · « **Reply #48 on:** November 06, 2019, 04:07:17 PM »

Before digital readout technology any time you were using a milling machine or lathe and you wanted to move the table or carriage a precise amount a magnetic base with a dial indicator was setup and used. You could do the same with your radial saw sharpener to control your depth setting.

bwstout · « **Reply #49 on:** November 06, 2019, 05:13:52 PM »

I use a radial arm saw, I bought one of the CBN wheels from the sponsor here on FF that match my blades and added a mist cooler on and I just match the wheel to the blade and use the depth of the saw and eye when it makes a few sparks start and adjust as I go. Sometime I make two rounds at the same depth so for no glitches band cut as good as new.

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