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Author Topic: Sawing an Ash log  (Read 942 times)

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Offline BtoVin83

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Sawing an Ash log
« on: January 07, 2020, 02:33:16 PM »
Pretty new to sawing here and I知 hoping somebody can help me with this issue I have come across. Here are the parameters.
Home built bandsaw mill; rubber tired
Push powered carriage
Woodmizer Double Hard 7deg blade 158 inches
16 Hp Kohler single cylinder engine
Ash log 32 inches diameter, 30% moisture content
The blade I知 using is pretty tired but was still cutting well in Lodgepole logs. I知 using it to rough out the log and get rid of the jackets as they are dirty, not wanting to use a new blade for that. Cutting through the sapwood it cuts fine but there is an upswing at the end of the log and the cut gets into the heartwood. When it hits the heartwood, it gets a lot of resistance to push through. it gets to the point the cut is steaming. I keep pushing on it and it finally starts cutting again and finishes the cut without undue resistance. It痴 like the blade is loaded and not clearing the sawdust out.
I have some new blades but maybe need a different blade type?
I知 new here so go easy on me. Thanks in advance

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #1 on: January 07, 2020, 03:11:37 PM »
   I used 4 degree WM DH blades when cutting ash and I cut a good bit of it. You need a good sharp blade as ash is a very dense, hard wood. It also tends to leave a residue on the blades so good blade lube is a big help too. Good luck.
Howard Green
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Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline Tom the Sawyer

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #2 on: January 07, 2020, 03:15:15 PM »
Put on a new blade and try again.  

Although it is not likely to cause the issues you are having, a 30% moisture content seems very low for an ash log, if you could find a way to measure it accurately - normal would be closer to 50%. 
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

Offline BtoVin83

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #3 on: January 07, 2020, 03:45:37 PM »
It was standing dead for awhile and my cheepo meter is probably not very good but puts me in the ball park for now. I'll try a new blade and have been using water on the Lodgepole but may have to use an additive for the ash. You might be on to something, running my hand over the cut it comes away sticky

Offline SawyerTed

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #4 on: January 07, 2020, 06:23:25 PM »
'+1 on start again with a new blade. 

There are several detergents used in the lube water - Dawn and Cascade are two common ones.  I wonder if Simple Green would work.  In addition I use a few DROPS of diesel just before starting a cut from a small hand held pump sprayer when I start to see a little build up on the blade.  I cut several ash logs about a month ago using a 4ー band.  It cut smoothly with nothing unusual.
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Offline BtoVin83

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #5 on: January 07, 2020, 07:34:54 PM »
Thanks for the replies. I'll give it a go with a new blade tomorrow and maybe a little dawn. Crappy weather today, not by east coast standards but California standards. 50 degrees and foggy

Offline dgdrls

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #6 on: January 07, 2020, 07:57:43 PM »
As others noted, put a new blade on. 
If you don't need live edge strip the bark off before you start sawing,  saves your blade a bunch.

D

Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #7 on: January 07, 2020, 08:35:44 PM »
   The bark will be coming off anyway so don't try to save it even if you are doing live edge. JMHO.
Howard Green
WM LT35HDG25(2015) , 2009 4wd Dodge PU, Kawasaki 650 ATV, Sthil 440 & 441, homemade logging arch (w/custom built rear log dolly), JD 750 w/4' wide Bushhog brand FEL

Dad always said "You can shear a sheep a bunch of times but you can only skin him once"

Offline Tom the Sawyer

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #8 on: January 07, 2020, 10:59:33 PM »
BtoVin83,

Moisture meters are not accurate when the wood is above FSP (fiber saturation point - ballpark 30%).  You are likely to get a maximum reading, say 30% on the meter, whether the actual moisture content is 30%, or 80%.  Useable readings are well within the range of most meters (6-25% for example), but whether it is 30%, or 80%, it is too wet for most uses.  After air drying for a couple of weeks it may still read 30%, but eventually it will get down to 30% and from then on the meter reading should start dropping.  You can check by weighing a sample piece of wood, and checking the meter reading, every few weeks.  The weight may drop quite a bit before the meter reading starts to change.  You can get an accurate moisture content by performing an oven drying process, or just plan on waiting until the meter reading starts dropping. 
07 TK B-20, Custom log arch, 20' trailer w/log loading arch, F350 flatbed dually dump.  Piggy-back forklift.  LS tractor w/FEL, Bobcat S250 w/grapple, Stihl 025C 16", Husky 372XP 24/30" bars, Grizzly 20" planer, Nyle L200M DH kiln.
If you call and my wife says, "He's sawin logs", I ain't snoring.

Offline barbender

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #9 on: January 08, 2020, 12:11:13 AM »
We have 2 ash species in my area- black and green ash. Black ash saws really nice, quite similar to red oak. Green ash on the other hand can really suck to saw. I attribute it to the low moisture content it has right off of the stump. I don't have a number, I just know it is a very dry wood, the sawdust really gets airborne, and it takes a fresh sharp blade to saw it straight. One batch I sawed, I had to use a new blade for each green ash log, or I got waves. I could take a blade that wouldn't saw green ash, and make perfect cuts in black ash🤷🏽‍♂️ All of this to day- put on a new blade!😂
Too many irons in the fire

Online Brad_bb

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #10 on: January 08, 2020, 12:42:19 AM »
I recommend you use a 4 degree band always.  With only 16hp, you really don't have enough power to run higher degree bands.  The 7 degree may work for softwoods.  I don't mill any softwood, but I mill a lot of Ash, Walnut, Osage, Honey Locust, Oak, elm.

Don't be afraid to put a new band on.  Resharpening is only $8 or so.   A wavy cut is not worth what you save in sharpening.  You just create more work in flattening that board later.
I'm milling osage right now and getting about 4 to 8 cuts before I need to change the band(super hard wood that dulls bands quickly).  I'd rather change the band than have a wavy cut.  Bands can only go for a certain number of revolutions on the mill before they start to fatigue and crack.  Heat affects them too.  Sharpening more often will not reduce your band life.  You'll just spend more time cutting with a sharp band.

Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Offline 69bronco

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #11 on: January 08, 2020, 07:10:25 AM »
Ash isn't one of my favorites to saw, use lots of lube.

 

Offline BtoVin83

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Re: Sawing an Ash log
« Reply #12 on: January 08, 2020, 07:44:44 PM »
Well on the plus side you guys are  learnin me up. Put a new band on and it's cutting a lot better a little wavy but I realigned the blade and we
ll see how that works. I might order a 4 deg band but most logs around here are either oak of softwood conifers and oak can be hard to get on public property. Because of the Sierra Club and others the USFS will barely let you take a picture of a tree. On the moisture content, I could believe it's above 30 percent but we'll take care of that this summer. 100 - 110 degrees and 9 percent RH. My set up is not as rigid as I hoped but I did not want another trailer in the yard. might have to alter that thought but not yet. Thanks Guys for the help


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