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Author Topic: Resawing 6/4  (Read 1304 times)

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Offline sealark37

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #20 on: December 02, 2019, 02:03:44 PM »
The end use is the answer.  For paneling, it might work to the customer's satisfaction, not so much for the Sawyer.  If the purpose is flooring, quicker, cheaper, better is to buy more oak and plane it to thickness.   I will not divulge  how I learned this.    Regards, Clark

Offline Brad_bb

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #21 on: December 02, 2019, 07:28:04 PM »
@Pepe_Silvia , did you decide what you're going to do or tell him?
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Offline Pepe_Silvia

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #22 on: December 02, 2019, 10:01:27 PM »
@Pepe_Silvia , did you decide what you're going to do or tell him?
I told him it was ill-advised and probably would waste a board, but if we was set on it (he is) we could try one out and if he's happy with the result then we could do them all.
My plan is use some plywood to shim it up so that the halfway point is above the stops but not so high that the stops are ineffective.
I'll update with the results.



Online barbender

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #23 on: December 02, 2019, 11:07:03 PM »
I'm telling you man, make a resaw jig with hold downs and feed the material through the saw, not vice versa like normal.
Too many irons in the fire

Offline Nomad

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #24 on: December 03, 2019, 08:17:24 AM »
     Got to agree with Barbender.  Spend an hour and make an Arky resaw jig.  Chain the saw head in place and push the boards through.
Buying a hammer doesn't make you a carpenter
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Offline Ed_K

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #25 on: December 03, 2019, 09:03:52 AM »
 I ended up having Rita push the saw while I pushed down on the board with a crowbar. It worked out ok but real slow trying to keep the bar close but not in the mills way.
 I did some garden stakes that started a 2"x 6"s and the boards I was given were wavy from 2" to 11/4" to start. I don't like reworking other's work  :o .
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Offline Pepe_Silvia

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #26 on: December 03, 2019, 09:26:09 AM »
I'm telling you man, make a resaw jig with hold downs and feed the material through the saw, not vice versa like normal.
Ok, I will take this advise.  May have to reschedule because I'm not sure I'll have time, but that's fine.
    Got to agree with Barbender.  Spend an hour and make an Arky resaw jig.  Chain the saw head in place and push the boards through.
You severely overestimate how fast I can work.  ;D  The head has lockdowns built in so that should be helpful at least.




Online Crusarius

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #27 on: December 03, 2019, 12:58:25 PM »
Why don't we use carbide tipped bands for general milling?

I did that. was great. Up until I found 2 drywall screws in a 22" walnut. that was a costly mistake.

Offline Rhodemont

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Re: Resawing 6/4
« Reply #28 on: December 03, 2019, 02:23:18 PM »
My most common boards are 1 x 6 oak for fencing.  I take as many as I can but always leave a 6x6 which is my second most common.  Figure can make more 1x6 from a 6x if needed but not a 6x from a 1x.  When I have resawn have learned to take 3/8 inch off the top which curls because dry at surface and still wet interior.  Then flip the bottom last 1 1/2 board and take 3/8 outter surface off it as well.  End up with five nice 1x6 rather than four nice boards and two potato chips when I tried to get all six. (going after that last one still makes my heart beat even though I know the blade will clear the stops)
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