What do I need to make this tongue and groove?

Kwill · December 04, 2019, 07:25:55 PM

I would like to be able to make some boards like these and I'm wondering what I need to be able to do it? Thank in advance

samandothers · December 04, 2019, 07:37:35 PM

Looks like you could do a tongue and groove bit with a router and make the tongue and groove. Then use a v groove bit on each side to cut half the groove so when the tongue and groove are joined they'd make a v groove.

Don P · December 04, 2019, 08:24:56 PM

I have T&G V groove router bits for big 1/2" routers that work pretty well, check Woodcraft, Lee Valley, etc

That's scraps of formica wedged to make quick hold downs. Those bits will burn up a little router fast. You can see the holddowns for the tongue router on the other side of the table, there's 2 big routers under the table set up to do both T and G on one bench. I'll haul that out to jobs when I'm doing wainscot trim on site. The next bigger machine that does a whole lot better is a shaper, not too long ago I ground a set of shaper knives to do 1-1/2" T&G V groove flooring for a friends house. I looked around and couldn't find a stock set for whatever reason though 3/4" thick ones are readily available. The best machine is a molder that can do all 4 sides in one pass, ka-ching but there may be a shop nearby that makes that a good option before investing in one of the other options.

Router bits being small dia have more "lift" out of the cut so tearout more, especially in gnarly stuff like cedar. Shapers and molders have larger dia cutterheads that have a "flatter" cut and tearout less.

Looks like I was doing some of Danny's favorite BBQ wood there :D

Kwill · December 04, 2019, 08:50:55 PM

I can make just the tongue and groove work without the v. I'm guessing that would be easier?

Dan_Shade · December 04, 2019, 08:52:10 PM

99-191 | Router CNC | Joinery | "V" Panel Set - Freud Tools

It kinda looks like this one will do it.

Don P · December 04, 2019, 10:08:27 PM

Look at the bottom of the page Dan posted, there is a square edge T&G wing cutter router set. I've got a set of those to use when doing flooring, I use the same workbench when doing that so not much different. It does take less hp but I use the same routers.

You can also use a molding head on a tablesaw or radial arm to do either. You can just jig up and use regular sawblades on either, that would probably be an exercise in frustration

Magicman · December 04, 2019, 10:16:19 PM

These router bits will make T&G V Groove: MLCS

Note that is says that a fence is required.

tawilson · December 04, 2019, 10:26:10 PM

I use the groove on a hand held planer to put a chamfer on shiplap.

Ljohnsaw · December 04, 2019, 10:31:45 PM

I have a little shaper and I *think* I got my set at MLCS as well : V-Groove Shaper set

Ianab · December 04, 2019, 11:28:01 PM

Quote from: Kwill on December 04, 2019, 08:50:55 PM
I can make just the tongue and groove work without the v. I'm guessing that would be easier?

It would work the same, but it will look a lot different. The expansion gap would be much more defined. The chamfer on the edge sorta "softens" the sharp line.
I've made small amounts with just a handheld router with various bits (slot cutter / straight bit / 45 ° chamfer. It's takes a bit to set up, and multiple passes, but if you just want a couple of boards to make a repair, it can be done.
For more boards, you would want the t&g bit set and a router table / big router. Still two passes, but you can run a sensible amount in an hour.
A shaper / power feeder is the same idea, but works even better.
Making it on a commercial scale, they would use something like a Weinig 6 head planer moulder, and 3 or 4 guys to keep it running. Then it's basically one pass (at speed) from rough sawn to planed t&g.

Southside · December 05, 2019, 12:29:35 AM

You need to make a trip to Virginia. ;D That profile is called V match or Micro V. I make a fair bit of it on my moulder, one pass and all 4 sides are done. You can do that on a Woodmaster with the optional routers if someone near you has one.

The problem with doing profiles like that on a shaper or with a router are that first you need to start with S4S material, otherwise you will not be happy with the fit up and if you get ANY movement from your fence, even 1/16" it will show up in the joint and it can't be fixed. Small volume, plenty of time, good fence, hold down, etc - yes it can be done. Anything significant - you want to find a way to do all 4 sides at the same time IMO.

69bronco · December 05, 2019, 07:11:55 AM

Don P, interesting featherboards. I like it!

Don P · December 05, 2019, 07:53:52 AM

Those work good, it's easy to adjust the pressure.
I also use that table to glue joint edges on boards. Like Southside was alluding to straightlining S4S boards is the starting point when doing this. I plane then set up a LONG fence on the tablesaw to straighten the edges. When I'm doing a glueup with a straight bit and for the groove side on T&G the fence starts out as a straightlined board then I rip a half blade of width off the infeed side. The outfeed side is lined up with the bit. Then when you feed stock in it removes about 1/16" and then rides the outfeed side of the fence, just like a jointer but laying flat. With the board laying flat on the table I actually get better jointing than with a jointer. Hmm, I hope that was clearer than mud :D.

Talking mud, off to take my CDLa, been studying till I'm crosseyed, here's hoping.

Kwill · December 05, 2019, 01:13:35 PM

Thanks for the info guys

TKehl · December 05, 2019, 03:41:02 PM

You might consider doing ship-lap with the V groove. Could all be set up to run on just a table saw. Would need a dado stack and two passes per side... Depends on what equipment you have and how much of it you want to make. ;)

Brad_bb · December 08, 2019, 07:30:52 PM

How you do it depends on how much you intend to make. If you are only doing a few boards, You could set up a table saw for each cut. I've done that.

If you're making a small room worth, set up a shaper table to do one side then another bit to do the other.

If you're planning to do a lot more, that's when you consider finding a shop with much bigger more expensive equipment like a moulder machine.

Remember, whichever way you do it, you need to prep your stock well. It must be dry, planed properly and consistently, and ripped to width consistently. When you start the T&G process, you need to check the fit. You don't want it too tight, as being dry it may expand a little. You don't want any buckling. You also need to check it as you go along in the run so that you catch it if anything changes.

21incher · December 14, 2019, 11:39:43 AM

I have made a lot of thinner t&g like that using a MLCS cutter set. As Brad says prepping the stock properly will affect the outcome. Here is a video that I made about running a small batch.
Making Some 7 /16" Walnut Tongue And Groove Paneling On The Router Table - YouTube

kantuckid · January 01, 2020, 08:13:00 AM

I ran the same design T&G but in kiln dried, 2x6, western white pine. I was doing the ceiling in my timber frame room addition and wanted the open cathedral ceilings to match the older part of the house made from eastern white pine. The company in Ravenna, KY that ran my older wood had gone out of business so I drew up & ordered a 1/2 router bit set and ran my own on my router table from the kiln dried farming lumber.
I remember paying a tad over a $100 for the set to be made for me. Considering the cost of T&G lumber it was a bargain plus no yard had a matching wood. I would have dried my own but CTS surgeries two years in a row (2000/2001) sort of slowed down my wood handling activities.