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Author Topic: Milling paneling  (Read 961 times)

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Offline Medieval

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Milling paneling
« on: January 20, 2020, 06:11:03 PM »
So, one major project I want to mill when I get my hm126 up and going is paneling. 
Has anyone else got experience with it? I'm limited on width, which is fine for my projects. 
Do I need to stack it a certain way?
Will it dry different than dimensional limber?
Any tips or tricks?

I'll watch and learn, you all are the best.

Offline Escavader

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #1 on: January 20, 2020, 06:18:15 PM »
You mean like vee match?i mill a couple million feet a year😊
Bottom layer vees up after that v face down  that way dust etc doesnt get on face.
Dead piles  wood must be dry before milling because of erratic shrinkage,or it will mold.if you try sticking it and running it not dry youll get sticker drying marks

Alan Bickford
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Offline Medieval

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #2 on: January 21, 2020, 12:38:43 AM »
I'm not familiar with v match. I was thinking 1/8 inch sheets.

Offline Southside

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #3 on: January 21, 2020, 12:45:51 AM »
Material that thin will have a lot of cupping and splitting happen as it dries. You can definitely saw it that thin, but the loss during drying will outweigh any advantage you were hoping for. 
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Offline scsmith42

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #4 on: January 21, 2020, 05:07:16 PM »
So, one major project I want to mill when I get my hm126 up and going is paneling.
Has anyone else got experience with it? I'm limited on width, which is fine for my projects.
Do I need to stack it a certain way?
Will it dry different than dimensional limber?
Any tips or tricks?

I'll watch and learn, you all are the best.
Please define "paneling", as the term has different interpretations.  thx.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Offline JoshNZ

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #5 on: January 21, 2020, 07:22:47 PM »
I think he's talking 1/8" thick boards.

I guess if you stacked them under a heavy sheet of something they'd stay flat. I don't know about checking/splitting.

What use do you have for 1/8" thick sheets? Veneer?

Offline florida

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #6 on: January 22, 2020, 11:04:38 AM »
1/8" "paneling" is made from plywood and these days with a paper face. It has little to no resemblance to original wood paneling.
General contractor and carpenter for 50 years.

Offline Medieval

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #7 on: January 23, 2020, 01:12:51 AM »
I was originally thinking 1/8 for veneer, but may need to step up thickness to make a tongue & groove type after reading on here. Certainly not worth the game of I get no resemblance to the original wood look.

Offline Southside

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #8 on: January 23, 2020, 01:23:17 AM »
I have made T+G wall profiles as thin as 9/16" with good results. 
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Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
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Offline scsmith42

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #9 on: January 23, 2020, 06:08:40 AM »
I was originally thinking 1/8 for veneer, but may need to step up thickness to make a tongue & groove type after reading on here. Certainly not worth the game of I get no resemblance to the original wood look.
Typically when you mill lumber less than 1 thick, you end up with a lot if wood movement during drying.
The thinnest paneling that I have made was 1/2, which was made by resawing a dry 5/4 thick board and then running it through a moulder.
I have successfully dried quartersawn red oak before, milled at 13/16 and then moulder into 1/2 flooring after drying. It was stickered at 12 during drying with 4thick concrete slabs placed on top of the stacks.

I think that you may end up with a lot of waste if you mill thin. 
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

Offline DMcCoy

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #10 on: January 23, 2020, 06:29:10 AM »
I make 5/16" T and G. and use it for the inner panel on my shop cabinet doors out of dry Douglas fir.  It's a bit touchy.   I use a table saw blade for the female and 2 dado blades with a custom spacer for the male.  


 


H Depot lists 5/16" pine v groove T and G.

I have also made some 3/8".  Which after fussing around with 5/16 seemed easier.  I also added a cove instead of v groove.

I wish I had the experience of running several million feet.  I would know better what to be watching.

Offline alan gage

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #11 on: January 23, 2020, 09:12:26 AM »
It seems safer to mill thicker and cut out veneer after drying.

Alan
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Offline Medieval

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #12 on: January 26, 2020, 09:06:39 AM »
It seems safer to mill thicker and cut out veneer after drying.

Alan
Is this possible, or is this panel not possible with a band mill?

Online doc henderson

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #13 on: January 26, 2020, 09:14:53 AM »
it is possible but some would say that there will be stress in the thicker wood that will show up when milled thinner.  How thick?  I sometimes mill 1/8th to 1/4 "  for hobby stuff. It is fun to check your mill and cut a 1/16th inch slice to see if it is cutting consistent.  but this thin can curl into a ball.  It is thin enough to see light through it.  the difficulty is not cutting them, but drying them flat.  almost need a vapor permeable press.  maybe a hot iron! :).  I milled a bunch of 1/4: ERC to line a closet.  just nailed to the walls for my BIL.
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Offline Don P

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Re: Milling paneling
« Reply #14 on: January 26, 2020, 10:20:31 AM »
For cedar closet lining, when I was running the rough end at a cabinet/millwork shop we would buy 4/4x5" ERC, a common size. I would split it both ways with bandsaws then had ground a set of small T&G V groove knives for the molder. IIRC we ended up with 2-1/4x 3/8" closet lining that looked nice. It was  applied with liquid nails and  a trim nailer over osb or drywall.
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