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Vardo Gypsy Wagon Build-modern

Started by DMcCoy, January 24, 2020, 08:57:49 AM

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DMcCoy

A few pictures.  Range hood installed.


 


 
Getting started with the bay window up front.  It going to break wind while towing. I plan on making a plywood bra to protect the windows.  Main window must open for emergency exit. Under the main window is the battery compartment including the solar charge controller and main battery switch.   Building window casings this morning.


  

DMcCoy

 

 
Homemade aluminum brackets from the scrap pile.   Front cover held on with brass toilet tank bolts...call me a pack rat, the shoe fits.


 

DMcCoy

I've been working on wiring.   Interior lights, 12 vdc LED strip lighting.  Pretty cheap but cutting and adding extension wiring is a pita/


 
Adding light from the wall sconces.  12 vdc fixtures off ebay, each has it's own switch.


 

Walnut Beast


samandothers

This is a wonderful build, labor of love.  I was catching up since about October time frame.  You do great work and detail.  I really enjoy your creativity and use of 'scrap pile' stuff.  Now that stove, seems it may work to warm coffee and a great conversation piece but stoking a fire with 5 1/2" wood may take a lot of trips to the wood 'pile'.  At least the load of fire wood will be light.  :o  Might need a pellet feeder attachment.  ;D  EPA approved?  I am only funning, it is a great touch.

Thank you for sharing your work and the detail!

DMcCoy

update...
The bay window case is close to done.  The actual windows will have to wait.  I used copper roofing which is a whole new learning experience.


 
The posts are glue ups, held in the case with dowels, glue and screws.


 
Ready for putty(bondo) sanding and roofing.


 

DMcCoy

The copper roof-


 


 


 
The copper roof materials cost just over $200 with $36 of that being for a folding tool.  For whatever reason looking back I'm a little surprised I tried this, I have no experience or even practice.

DMcCoy

The little copper drip edge was made from a coil I saved from my fathers shop.  It has easily been collecting dust for over 64 years.  So the lesson here is to never throw anything away....  ;D


 

Tom King

Looks great!  

If I didn't do something because I had no experience or practice, I probably would have never done much of anything.

Walnut Beast


DMcCoy

Quote from: Tom King on February 27, 2023, 10:03:40 AM
Looks great!  

If I didn't do something because I had no experience or practice, I probably would have never done much of anything.
I've been thinking about your comment all afternoon.  The perspective, thanks!
Like raising 3 kids...zero experience and no practice  :D

DMcCoy

Finally back into the shop.  Not wood working unless you are adding stained or leaded glass into cabinetry.  I tool a picture of the tools I used, and most are wood working tools!  Specific glass tools are; cutter oil, a cutter, a breaker, and a grouser.


 
I made a temperature controller for my soldering iron, you can see it in the middle.  A light dimmer switch and an outlet.


 
I used a piece of flat bar with a pin that fits through the grate on my grinder to grind the pieces parallel.



Glass work is more like working with tile than anything else.  It's not the easiest material, and it can break weirdly.  A window gets far more scrutiny than a floor.

DMcCoy

The patterns are geometric and I keep the pattern itself under the glass I'm working.  I use old window glass for my clear glass saving $$.  I used plastic spacers which unfortunately were a little too thick so I soldered a copper wire around the window to give it more length and width.  It all gets covered by the window frame so no worries. I work my way across cutting, grinding, sanding and fitting as I go. Eventually I numbered every piece starting in the upper right hand corner.  Occasionally a piece will fit better if you flip it over so the numbering helps keep everything tight.


 
The copper foil I add by hand.  It's very important to get it centered.  I clamp a wood chisel to the table for cutting the foil.  The foil is adhesive backed and must be pressed down.  I just use a pencil, nothing fancy.  At the corners the foil is folded carefully and mashed down.


 


 


 

DMcCoy

One of the hardest things to do at least for me is to visualize the final window.  As this series of pictures show it changes pretty dramatically.
Here the window is finished with cutting fitting, it's ready for copper foil.


 
Finished with foiling. 


 
Soldering done.  Window gets washed to remove flux and crud.


 
I use nitric acid to give the solder a black patina. Gloves required. I apply with a old toothbrush, brushing fairly often, old reacted chemical needs replacing.  Eventually the patina equalizes and then I wash the window.  This step is the most dramatic and the hardest to visualize when I'm just starting the project.


 

DMcCoy

I'm just holding the loose window in the frame.


 
I've had a few questions about the legal side of having windows like this out on the road.  I'm planning for shutters on the sides and a shield for the front.  Plexiglas is my last option.

Andries

True craftsmanship, beautiful work!
LT40G25
Ford 545D loader
Stihl chainsaws

DMcCoy

Thank you.
Putting the glass in the frame.  After a few goofs this is how I proceeded.
There is a rabbet on the inside face of the window frame,  1/4" wide and 1/2" deep.
I varnished the rabbet.  I ended up getting some 1/4" wide by 1/8" thick closed cell adhesive weather stripping from McMaster-Carr, and wow, it's nice stuff.


 
Then the window.  I used super tiny oak wood blocks to support the window in the frame.  Along the edges I used a few strips of butyl rubber strips pushed into the gap to hold the window centered in the frame, that is sticky stuff!!!


 


 
Lastly I added a 1/4" x 1/4" wood strip to hold the glass in place.  I used 3/4" x 18 wire nails to secure it.


 
Certified as being "cute little nails" by my wife...

DMcCoy

I wished I had a window making grandpa to help me.
Terrified of swinging a hammer next to my prize windows I built a nail holding block of wood that a small drift pin punch fit into.  With the notch in the block of wood I could hold that little strip tight and the punch keeps my hammer far enough away.  Nails on center!
 

 


 
By adjusting the thickness of the block to match the length of the punch's pin before the shoulder stops it, the nails are set flush.

Magicman

This is Fascinating and Amazing.  I am totally "blown away" as I read about this journey that you are making and sharing with us.  :P
98 Wood-Mizer LT40 SuperHydraulic    WM Million BF Club

Two: First Place Wood-Mizer Personal Best Awards
The First: Wood-Mizer People's Choice Award

It's Weird being the same age as Old People

Never allow your Need to make money
To exceed your Desire to provide Quality Service

DMcCoy

Thank you and I'm glad you're enjoying the process Magicman.
I put clear stain on the window flames and installed them.  I'm waiting on some fresh hydrogen peroxide to blacken my latches using the rust method. 
 

 
Working on the side window design.  I had to glue 4 sheets of paper together to get it big enough for a full size pattern.  I placed the bevel glass pieces directly on the pattern and spent quite some time staring, moving them, staring some more, moving, until it looks good.  Like going to the eye Dr. --which is better 'A' or 'B'.  Drafting table Craigslist find $50 with a nice chair.


 
Working on side window casing, a book shelf, some exterior trim around the copper roofing.  I will take it to an upholstery shop to get curtains and cushions made.   

DMcCoy

Rust blackening was a bust.  I went with a propane torch and oil quenching, which gave a mostly black looking finish to my handles.  Attached the fascia boards which has been giving me tremendous pause and turned out to be much simpler than I feared.
Drilled a 3/16" pilot hole, then using a counterbore drilled holes in the rafter tails and the back side of the fascia for the oak plug.



Cross grain oak plug.  1/4" bore on left holds 5/16" lag bolt threads.


 
3/4" counterbore.  Drills flat bottom hole.  Uses 3/16" pilot bit not shown.  I used the smooth shank portion of the pilot so the bit didn't wander.



Oak plug glued in place using TB-3.




DMcCoy

There is a corresponding shallow hole in the back side of the fascia to accept the protruding portion of the oak plug.  I had to re-drill the fascia to 5/16" for the lag bolt.  I used a homemade drill bit made from a 5/16" bolt with a 3/16" pilot to keep it centered.  I used galvanized hardware which isn't supposed to hold paint without first etching which I did by soaking all the hardware in pickling vinegar (6%) for about 1/2 hr.  Black rustoleum paint no primer.


 
Last roof board will help tie the fascia on.  It will hang the over 1/4" past the fascia and the roof covering will fasten down over it.  Total width once complete with roofing is 101 1/2"  = 1/2" under legal limit>
Interior side window trim is simple craftsman style.


 
Exterior side window trim gets some extra curves.  I'm making swinging wooden shutters to cover the side windows.


  
The side rub rail has scuppers cut into the back side.  The piece of grey plywood with the notch will get used to align the upper and lower pickets.
Bay window trim is also simple craftsman style with a book shelf above.  Book shelf and the two angle pieces cover the ends of the copper nails used to hold the roofing on.


 
I'm really ready for this project to get completed.

Magicman

98 Wood-Mizer LT40 SuperHydraulic    WM Million BF Club

Two: First Place Wood-Mizer Personal Best Awards
The First: Wood-Mizer People's Choice Award

It's Weird being the same age as Old People

Never allow your Need to make money
To exceed your Desire to provide Quality Service

aigheadish

Wow! This is an incredible project! I haven't read through all the posts yet, so I'm just catching it, but great work!
Support your Forestry Forum! It makes you feel good.

thecfarm

Take the time to start at the beginning.
You will enjoy it!!!
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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