The Forestry Forum is sponsored in part by:

iDRY Vacuum Kilns


Forestry Forum
Sponsored by:


TimberKing Sawmills



Toll Free 1-800-582-0470

LogRite Tools



Norwood Industries Inc.




Your source for Portable Sawmills, Edgers, Resaws, Sharpeners, Setters, Bandsaw Blades and Sawmill Parts

EZ Boardwalk Sawmills. More Saw For Less Money!

STIHLDealers.com sponsored by Northeast STIHL


Woodland Sawmills

Peterson Swingmills

 KASCO SharpTech WoodMaxx Blades

Turbosawmill

Sawmill Exchange

Michigan Firewood, your BRUTE FORCE Authorized Dealer

FARMA


Baker Products

ECHO-Bearcat

iDRY Wood Lumber Vacuum Drying for everyon

Nyle Kiln Dry Systems

Chainsawr, The Worlds Largest Inventory of Chainsaw Parts





Author Topic: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents  (Read 1646 times)

0 Members and 1 Guest are viewing this topic.

Offline timberking

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 262
  • Age: 62
  • Location: marshall, texas
  • Gender: Male
  • I'm new!
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #20 on: February 24, 2020, 10:05:07 AM »
Suttle Equipment in DeQueen Ark might be a good source.  We run Tigercat now but had Hydro Axes in the past.

Offline kiko

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 950
  • Location: Middle Georgia
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #21 on: February 24, 2020, 10:28:41 AM »
If it has two sets of pedals, the set on the left works the clamp arm( bigger arm) and the accumulator works off the buttons. Under normal operation you would only want both arms to open when dumping. There should be no function on that machine that would close both arms at the same time.  If cutting wood that is small enough to bunch in the head. The first tree would be cut with both arms open, as the tree is cut you pull it into the pocket with clamp. Then you close the accumulator arm to hold the tree then open the clamp to cut the next one. Then you open the accumulator arm and it will pull out from behind the tree just cut and close it back to hold the trees. Repeat.

 

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #22 on: February 24, 2020, 11:55:32 AM »
No, a single "split pedal" I would call it on the far right, and a brake pedal more in the center. I'll be on it today and get a few pics.


Edit: Fixed pic. Brought in crane to sit machine vertical.
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?

Offline kiko

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 950
  • Location: Middle Georgia
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #23 on: February 24, 2020, 06:00:11 PM »
That is what I was talking about!  Get a big forky hardwood hung up where you can't throw it and that picture will be accurate.  A seasoned cutter man will go over on occasion . A customer of mine has a 643L .  JD called to tell him that she was on her side. First he heard of it. Machine sent out the mayday signal.  

Offline Firewoodjoe

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1133
  • Age: 32
  • Location: Northern lower michigan
  • Gender: Male
  • Im getting old
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #24 on: February 24, 2020, 07:08:12 PM »
I didnít read all this post so if Iím late or off I apologize. Iíve ran two 670s both joystick controls. No steering wheel. If it has joysticks then the bunching and accumulate are on the joy sticks. The pedals are for driving. There is one button to open both arms of you get a big one starting to tip you but not close them. All arms have to be closed to open side cut. Assuming all functions work as they should. There tough machines. Cat dealer here handles all parts now. 

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #25 on: February 24, 2020, 08:01:38 PM »
FWJoe, no, you're on point. Right now there are some mysteries to this machine and I am approaching it with some trepidation. I appreciate all the input here. I'm a little out of my element on feller bunchers, but I'll catch on fast. It's just a shame I have a deadline on a project and this is the only one we have right now. I really need to get it going. The guys would haul it out tomorrow if I get it done. It appears that it really isn't happy in high gear either. From a standing start, it does what I call "cogging", sort of jumping from one tooth to the next in the gearbox, as though the gears are not fully meshed. I got the shifter box reworked today and although it seems all well and good, I found this: (I'll try again on the pic)

 
Naturally, although the top end of the cable mechanism is in fair shape, that won't work. I'm thinking about removing the mechanism and cable to have here at the shop, in case of a brainstorm (hope no one is injured) and I see a way to possibly fix it. I'm also going to get with some of the parts people recommended by you guys. I personally would rather fix it than rig it. I'm actually a machinist by profession, and a bit OCD. I lost part of my thumb, and I'm 90% deaf, and have a handful of bad discs, and arthritis. So, I just happened to have a long time friend who lets me work on what I want and feel like and it keeps me out of the bars and stuff. I'm oilfield, but not roughneck. I come from the instrument and motor side of directional drilling, the stuff they send down to see what they are doing. That and the motors used downhole and all the associated bits and pieces (BHA - Bottom Hole Assembly). So I'm familiar with big, heavy, powerful equipment, and I've always worked on things. Anything from watches and the little precision indicators used in machine shops all the way to rotary tables and some of the surface equipment. Some of it is killer stuff, so I try not to be stupid. Someday I may tell how I lost my thumb. It wasn't in a machine shop. (sigh)  Enough biography. I only work part time. It's all I'm able, and it ends up jobs nobody wants to do, or they are so messed up it takes lots of patience and understanding of how machines work.
I'll try a couple more pics.


 

Judging by the date on the tag, it may mean the machine is an '04 or '05. I haven't found that decoder ring yet.


 

 

We will see what tomorrow brings. More of the same, I expect :D
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?

Offline kiko

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 950
  • Location: Middle Georgia
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #26 on: February 24, 2020, 08:18:50 PM »
That is the side cut door cylinder. FW Joe said that both clamp and accumulator must be closed to operate. It will lift that door to expose the saw for the first cut on large trees without having to change angles for the two cuts .  I keep adding on , but these are my second favorite machine.  

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #27 on: February 24, 2020, 08:49:02 PM »
kiko, that makes sense. I probably just haven't got the combination right to open that side cut door. I'll check it out tomorrow. I believe there are some decent size trees on the project so that should be useful.

You just keep adding on, you're adding to my education and I appreciate it.

timberking, DeQueen is close enough I'd drive to get parts if they had something I needed. Thanks for another source.
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?

Offline kiko

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 950
  • Location: Middle Georgia
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #28 on: February 24, 2020, 10:15:47 PM »
Have you discovered that the cab can jacked over for access?

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #29 on: February 24, 2020, 10:20:18 PM »
Oh yes. It would be virtually impossible to work on a lot of it if it didn't knock over.
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?

Offline Firewoodjoe

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1133
  • Age: 32
  • Location: Northern lower michigan
  • Gender: Male
  • Im getting old
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #30 on: February 25, 2020, 05:19:48 AM »
Steering, lifting, bunching arm, accumulate arm, dump button(opens both arms), and front diff lock is all on the joy sticks. I wouldnít worry about the shift cable just get the gear box in low gear and see if it runs smooth. Fix the cable latter. Also the side cut is very handy but not needed. You can cut very large trees with the normal front face of the head. 30-40Ē. The side cut always you to do it with out having to turn around and cut both sides of the tree. The only real issues we ever had was the wiring harness running through the center section but thatís really any equipment. Just jump in it and cut some brush and smaller trees. You canít hurt the machine. Never run it around people as the teeth WILL come off. I said will not might. New bolts every set of teeth and the shoulders have to be tight. No wiggle. Check saw bearing and lots of grease in those two fitting by the side cut cylinder in your picture. Rev it wide open and have fun. They will tip way past your pucker factor. That feeling will come in time and before long youíll be on three wheels through out the day.

Offline Mountaynman

  • Full Member x2
  • ***
  • Posts: 123
  • Age: 49
  • Location: southern adirondacks
  • Gender: Male
  • work from the southern adks to the catskills in NY
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #31 on: February 25, 2020, 07:10:58 AM »
Unless its drasticly different down there in texas very rare anything u need will be in stock at a dealer you probably wont have to chase any parts they will just drop ship them direct to you best of luck with your project only sold a couple of those wheeled machine this is track buncher country they did make a few of those machines that had the ability to interchange with mulchers, stumpgrinders and rotary cutters might be a nice find for a contractor if yours is like that if you can track down the build sheet should tell all 
Semi Retired too old and fat to wade thru waist deep snow hand choppin anymore

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #32 on: February 25, 2020, 08:28:21 AM »
The plan for today is to just do that: Get it into Low gear. My question is will it stay or will I need to wire it in place or put a turnbuckle on it or anything like that? The lever arm is very sloppy on the shaft coming out of the gearbox (happens to be a Sauer Danfoss). Trans is indeed a Terrell by Durst.

Around the shop I don't think there are any trees left to test with, so I may have to haul it out to the job. Owner would be thrilled if I tell him it's ready for that today. Then I'll get to play with it a bit.

You mentioned electrical. That reminds me of a major need for a schematic. The dash is almost void of information. I have oil pressure. That's all I know. The smart readout on the left side just says "no diagnostics available" or something like that. If the gearshift goes ok, I'm at least going to see if I can get the tach and temp working. The rest can wait, but I do want to keep an eye on the temp. Wide open, as you say, sounds about right.

And I'll pass along the fair warning about the teeth. I know how most of the operators treat the equipment we have with teeth. We spend a LOT of money on our hammer teeth. But much of that is not truly their fault. In the mulch yard, we take in supposedly clean cuts and brush from the public also, but every once in a while, something that won't grind gets dropped in Hogzilla or one of others. Yard super has a chunk of steel about the size of a football on his desk that looks pretty rough.
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #33 on: February 25, 2020, 08:42:16 AM »
Mountaynman, here in Tyler, this isn't really timber country. The Piney Woods area is a little south of me. Best we do close to me is some pulp wood cutting. It only starts getting more serious about 70 miles or so south around Lufkin/Nacogdoches. So I'm sure you're right. I can most likely get engine parts, and maybe some driveline stuff, but anything particular to cutting and handling will have to be brought in for me, or I'll have to do a little driving.

I see more wheeled equipment around here, although I do have a couple of Gyro-Trac mulchers in the fleet. They are problematic. I'll get around to those eventually. The hot job I am chasing right now involves moving a lot of dirt after the timber is cut, so the plan is to just chip the tops and limbs on-site and haul them back to the yard for processing into mulch and compost. We've been tasked with removing approximately 9 feet average depth over about 5 acres ASAP, as part of a larger project. I haven't calculated it, but that's a good amount of dirt. Obviously can't move the dirt until it's clear. Texas has just about all varieties of terrain. Lots of people watch old Westerns and think Texas is all desert, and yes, West Texas is pretty flat and dry, other than the mountains like the Davis Mountains. Dry, but not so flat. But then we have a lush, green valley (Big Bend country) where lots of fruit and vegetable crops are harvested. Then the Eastern areas where there are rolling hills and pastures leading into the wooded areas. Seems we have it all, including coastal plains along the GoM.
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?

Offline Firewoodjoe

  • Senior Member x2
  • *****
  • Posts: 1133
  • Age: 32
  • Location: Northern lower michigan
  • Gender: Male
  • Im getting old
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #34 on: February 25, 2020, 11:46:18 AM »
The engine tach should be digital and just rev it till it wonít rev no more. The other tach should be your saw speed. Not really a handy tool I ever thought. 

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #35 on: February 25, 2020, 08:27:04 PM »
Well, on the right, there is an analog tach, and admittedly I have not looked at it with the blade spinning, so you are probably correct. The "smart" meter will cycle through at least some of the operating conditions. Some history is stored, but I have my doubts. It tells that the machine has burned some 72,000+ gallons of fuel, and maybe so, but I have a hard time accepting that. I can get the oil temp and a few other important pieces of data. It's got an alarm light, but I have little confidence in it at this point. I doubt the operator will be scrolling through the menu while cutting. At least he better not be. The guy selected for this machine was raised in a logging family, so he's very familiar with these machines. He's also a decent mechanic, so I feel better about sending it out knowing he's running it.

Today there was no joy. I gathered the hardware to hold the shift lever in Low position, a turnbuckle, some S-hooks, a spring and some other stuff. I went ahead and removed the entire control cable while I was in there. It will probably get replaced, because.....THERE IS NO LOW GEAR! Probably shelled off the teeth some time in the past. Auction machine, so no telling the history. I was hoping this would work out for a bit, at least for this first section of this job. It's just 5 acres, but the whole thing is 50, so it would probably need a review sometimes soon after the first 5 hot acres. So the flames just got higher...and hotter. Now I have to get one of the young strong guys to pull it (I can't - messed up back) so I can have a look inside and see if there is anything I can do to repair it, while I look for a replacement. I've heard there's a place in Arlington, TX that deals in them, so in the morning they get a call. It acts as though the fork is not moving the, well not synchronizer ring since it isn't synchromesh, but the corresponding part (can't recall the proper name at the moment). But it has to be, or I would not be able to get it in and out of High range. So something is broken on the Low side. I've seen manual gearboxes with similar issues that were simply burred over enough to keep the splines from sliding and that's from people jamming the gears together when the synchronizers are worn out. I just hope it's not the gear itself. Pain to make. If I can find a rebuild shop maybe they would sell me a gear, I don't know. I don't really have time to send it out and wait on a rebuild. An exchange would work though. Kind of have a bad feeling about it though. It's not a new machine. Just have to wait and see.

Stay tuned! More drama tomorrow :(
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?

Offline kiko

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 950
  • Location: Middle Georgia
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #36 on: February 25, 2020, 10:02:46 PM »
On the little data monitor , if you hold both the arrows down at the same time you can see the engine codes. If it has a yellow light you have an active engine code. Red light is a shut down engine code.  Some time you have to have pressure on that shaft and steer it or slightly move machine to make it cog.  I have seen the exact situation and damage you are thinking it is.  So there are not syncros but slightly beveled mesh gears . If it spun it can roll up small metal and keep it from engaging. I have had success with this issue before by chocking the tractor and removing the drive lines , center slip and rear, so the gear box can be turned manually so you can feel when it is trying to cog and lightly and patiently tap the shift lever to knock the burs off. The shift fork held to shift rod with a roll pin. Problem is I can't remember if method is for the high or the low side. Any way if it does not work you already got the drive lines out. Often when these gear boxes come out , there is spline damage between the hydrostatic motor and the gearbox input shaft (unrelated to your issue)

Offline kiko

  • Senior Member
  • ****
  • Posts: 950
  • Location: Middle Georgia
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #37 on: February 25, 2020, 10:14:24 PM »
And also when all is well you would not have to hold it low, it has detents. Did you say you had a parts book? 

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #38 on: February 25, 2020, 10:16:08 PM »
I could see that working to straighten out light damage to the gears. Since the drivelines have to come off to remove the thing, it would be a simple matter to try it. Seems like it would work on both hi and lo range. Just a little "technical tapping". One of those $100 dollar hammer jobs. A buck for hitting it, $99 for knowing where and how hard. It would be a great thing if I didn't have to pull it. On that gearbox, are those oil lines simply passages for hydraulic pressure to the transmission? If I do end up pulling it, looks like there is potential to fill the belly pan with oil. I'll have caps and plugs for the JIC fittings, but nothing for any flanged connections. I'm seeing a lot of oil loss and a mess.
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?

Offline Tony Wells

  • member
  • *
  • Posts: 27
  • Age: 60
  • Location: Northeast Texas, USA
  • Gender: Male
  • Hogzilla Keeper
    • Share Post
Re: Hydro-Ax 670 Documents
« Reply #39 on: February 25, 2020, 10:17:16 PM »
No, I didn't order the parts book. Just the owner/operator book. It hasn't arrived yet. Thursday I think.
I'm right 97% of the time; who cares about the other 4%?


Share via delicious Share via digg Share via facebook Share via linkedin Share via pinterest Share via reddit Share via stumble Share via tumblr Share via twitter

xx
Old Documents

Started by Riggs on General Board

3 Replies
539 Views
Last post April 22, 2013, 02:08:14 PM
by beenthere
lamp
PDF documents on Worker Safety

Started by SwampDonkey on Health and Safety

0 Replies
972 Views
Last post January 19, 2005, 03:14:17 PM
by SwampDonkey
xx
Suze Orman's Important Documents Offer--Free Will, etc.

Started by DouginUtah on General Board

0 Replies
2061 Views
Last post September 11, 2011, 06:57:16 PM
by DouginUtah
xx
Helpful forms or documents to assist with management planning (for beginners)

Started by Piston on Ask The Forester

14 Replies
2750 Views
Last post August 23, 2010, 04:24:33 AM
by Piston
 


Powered by EzPortal