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EWP: Girdle before cutting?

Started by Old Greenhorn, March 22, 2020, 08:10:19 PM

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Old Greenhorn

So we have this 26" DBH EWP we want to take down. We know it should have been cut back in January, but it didn't need cutting then :D. We are wondering if we should girdle it and let it sit for a few days before we cut it, maybe cut down on the sap flow a bit? What do y'all think, will it help or is it too late. Will a few days make a difference at this point? The average temp here has been in the low 40's to high 30's. I plan on milling this as soon as I get it home, so like within 2 weeks or so. It will take a few trips with my little trailer.
 What do you guys think, will girdling at this point make any difference? I am thinking it can't hurt, but I don't work with hardly any pine up until now. Looking for your thoughts.
Tom
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

thecfarm

I've been keeping the house warm with EWP. I plan on building a garage and a couple was in the way. These was small ones, well if I would of waited 20 years, there would still not be a good log in them. But I am cutting them down and putting them into the OWB. Not much pitch here. Even when they sit for a week, not much pitch. Yes there is some, but it's not dripping. 
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

Corley5

Burnt Gunpowder is the Smell Of Freedom

Southside

It won't make any difference that you will see, not in such a short time.  
Franklin buncher and skidder
JD Processor
Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
Woodmaster 725 and 4000 planner and moulder
Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
White Oak Meadows

Don P

Notice those green needles all winter long... any time its above freezing for sap that pine is working ;). Sap doesn't really go down in anything during the winter if that was the driving notion. 

moodnacreek

The problem would be blue stain. The tree connected to its roots will stay cool enough and when cut will be ok until the wood warms. This may not happen until May. The trick is to get the tree cut into boards and stickered and dry enough ahead of the warming that will allow blue stain. Said another way; you need both moisture and heat to have stain, take away the moisture and the heat [warm weather] alone will not produce stain.

Old Greenhorn

Thanks for all the replies. I didn't think, given the time of year, and the short time before we cut it, that it would make a difference. But we felt there was no harm in asking our experts.  :)
 Not worried about blue stain. Almost all of this will go into framing wood for my last loft. If there is excess, I will air dry it and use it for other stuff. You never know what is around the next corner and this will be just another learning experience. 8)
 Thanks guys.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

moodnacreek

Back when I was learning to saw I stickered some nice red pine in the old hay loft. It was summer. Took it apart a year later and found black boards covered in white fungus.

WDH

Many times wounding a tree will actually increase sap flow as a stress response from the tree.
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5-111, Kubota L2501, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

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