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Author Topic: DIY sawmill build  (Read 7460 times)

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Online charles mann

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #220 on: September 10, 2020, 07:04:58 PM »
@ Mesquite cutter
I will be using for the time being, a porta-power like cremona, but will add in some springs for a dynamic absorber. 
Plus the power unit weighs 700 lbs, minus radiator, coolant and exhaust system. 

I am at the point of building my blade tensioning and working out my belt tensioning. 
Mine is direct pulley to pulley. I wanted a clutch system, and may spend the $2000 at a latter date for a clutch. But for now, ill either use a linear actuator or a manual lever and linkage a brake system, made out of a car brake rotor that has had the disk machined off and a few clean up passed to the “drum”, which will be bolted to my drive axle. 

@JoshNZ

Yep, will be able to mill almost anything i can get my hands on and as of now, everything i have gotten my hands on. 
But my tck mounted crane will come in handy when it comes time load and turn those 6,000# and less logs. Plus i’ll be able to lift the carriage, turn it 90° for transport and become a wide cut portable slabbing mill. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Offline Mesquite cutter

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #221 on: September 10, 2020, 07:18:24 PM »
@ Mesquite cutter
I will be using for the time being, a porta-power like cremona, but will add in some springs for a dynamic absorber.
Plus the power unit weighs 700 lbs, minus radiator, coolant and exhaust system.

I am at the point of building my blade tensioning and working out my belt tensioning.
Mine is direct pulley to pulley. I wanted a clutch system, and may spend the $2000 at a latter date for a clutch. But for now, ill either use a linear actuator or a manual lever and linkage a brake system, made out of a car brake rotor that has had the disk machined off and a few clean up passed to the “drum”, which will be bolted to my drive axle.

@JoshNZ

Yep, will be able to mill almost anything i can get my hands on and as of now, everything i have gotten my hands on.
But my tck mounted crane will come in handy when it comes time load and turn those 6,000# and less logs. Plus i’ll be able to lift the carriage, turn it 90° for transport and become a wide cut portable slabbing mill.
$2000 or $200 for a clutch?. 

Online charles mann

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #222 on: September 10, 2020, 07:21:15 PM »
@ Mesquite cutter
I will be using for the time being, a porta-power like cremona, but will add in some springs for a dynamic absorber.
Plus the power unit weighs 700 lbs, minus radiator, coolant and exhaust system.

I am at the point of building my blade tensioning and working out my belt tensioning.
Mine is direct pulley to pulley. I wanted a clutch system, and may spend the $2000 at a latter date for a clutch. But for now, ill either use a linear actuator or a manual lever and linkage a brake system, made out of a car brake rotor that has had the disk machined off and a few clean up passed to the “drum”, which will be bolted to my drive axle.

@JoshNZ

Yep, will be able to mill almost anything i can get my hands on and as of now, everything i have gotten my hands on.
But my tck mounted crane will come in handy when it comes time load and turn those 6,000# and less logs. Plus i’ll be able to lift the carriage, turn it 90° for transport and become a wide cut portable slabbing mill.
$2000 or $200 for a clutch?.
$2000
Ogura or something like, is 1 of the clutch makers and to handle the 100 horses from the diesel (hope i dont ever need all of them) i gotta pay the piper. 
Temple, Tx
Fire Fighting and Heavy Lift Helicopter Mech
Helicopter and Fixed Wing Pilot

Offline Mesquite cutter

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #223 on: September 10, 2020, 07:25:18 PM »
@ Mesquite cutter
I will be using for the time being, a porta-power like cremona, but will add in some springs for a dynamic absorber.
Plus the power unit weighs 700 lbs, minus radiator, coolant and exhaust system.

I am at the point of building my blade tensioning and working out my belt tensioning.
Mine is direct pulley to pulley. I wanted a clutch system, and may spend the $2000 at a latter date for a clutch. But for now, ill either use a linear actuator or a manual lever and linkage a brake system, made out of a car brake rotor that has had the disk machined off and a few clean up passed to the “drum”, which will be bolted to my drive axle.

@JoshNZ

Yep, will be able to mill almost anything i can get my hands on and as of now, everything i have gotten my hands on.
But my tck mounted crane will come in handy when it comes time load and turn those 6,000# and less logs. Plus i’ll be able to lift the carriage, turn it 90° for transport and become a wide cut portable slabbing mill.
$2000 or $200 for a clutch?.
$2000
Ogura or something like, is 1 of the clutch makers and to handle the 100 horses from the diesel (hope i dont ever need all of them) i gotta pay the piper.
Ouch!

Offline JoshNZ

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #224 on: September 10, 2020, 08:05:06 PM »
Id be pulling the clutch from a car if I were you Charles haha bugger that. Put a linear actuator on the release bearing fork, or a lever and cable near your operator station.

Mine was ~$100US it's a little centrifugal and pulls ok with 22hp turning it. I did get a bit of crap stuck in there one day I think, and made it weak, I just deglazed the drum with a ScotchBrite and sanded the shoes and it was good to go again.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #225 on: September 11, 2020, 10:33:55 AM »
I have hydraulic tensioner and direct belt with a centrifugal clutch. Cost a bunch but very happy with it.

I always hated the electric clutch like on my zero turn. belt chirps every time its engaged and really hard on everything.

Offline Mesquite cutter

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #226 on: September 11, 2020, 05:03:41 PM »
I am leaning more into getting a Honda 22HP engine and using a centrifugal clutch on it.  I am thinking about getting the clutch with a double pulley from Linn lumber.

Offline Crusarius

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #227 on: September 12, 2020, 09:52:52 AM »
I wanted to get a honda. But a 21 hp honda cost 2300. a 22 hp predator cost 700. I could replace 3 for the cost of 1. and so far the predator has been a great engine.

Offline Mesquite cutter

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #228 on: September 12, 2020, 03:41:21 PM »
I wanted to get a honda. But a 21 hp honda cost 2300. a 22 hp predator cost 700. I could replace 3 for the cost of 1. and so far the predator has been a great engine.
Surplus Center has the 22 HP for $1399

Offline Mesquite cutter

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #229 on: September 12, 2020, 03:44:23 PM »
I need to correct myself.  The 22 HP briggs and straton is what is on sale for 1399

I am sure a predator has the power but I have seen too many bad reviews on this engine to convince me to go with it.  maybe I will change my mind when I get to the point of pulling the trigger on the engine.

Offline JoshNZ

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #230 on: September 13, 2020, 03:30:19 PM »
My tensioner is the hydraulic cylinder and sleeve setup. I don't know what to make of it still, I had heaps of trouble with it to begin with when I used a jack, it leaked down and was basically useless. Ended up modifying a cylinder to fit in there and fitted a portapump to it. Now the setup is, pump (with check valve and manual valve), high pressure ball valve, gauge, cylinder. When I crank it up to tension then run it, it still backs off for a while, maybe the first 5 min of sawing, I don't know what this is if it's the blade settling into it's running temperature or something in my setup is flexing/wearing or what. I can't believe it's oil getting back into the pump because it'd be getting through a ball valve, check valve and/or needle valve.. it's not coming out the cylinder seal as I've never seen a drip from it.

So maybe thats just how dynamic a running bands tension is, and the gauge is good to have in that regard, maybe guys with springs miss this temperature information I don't know. When I stop sawing I usually see the gauge climb again.
In summary, don't use a vehicle jack, they are useless. Also make sure your beam is long enough to support the full length of your sleeve at the end of its sliding travel, and that your sleeve is long enough to handle the torquing force.

Drive tension I used an idler (turning the belt inwards - go outwards if you have room) for one side of jackshaft, and the whole jackshaft assembly slides, for the other side (loosen pillows and slide in their slot).

Reliable centrifugal clutch is definitely the answer I think. Install it and forget about it.

Offline JoshNZ

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #231 on: September 13, 2020, 03:34:12 PM »
I bought a v twin Honda clone too, and it is a honey, hasn't missed a beat yet. I imagine it's the same predator you guys are talking about with whatever badge whoever gets their hands on them here puts on them.

I did change the oil for the first time the other day and I think there was less in there than I originally filled it with, however... lol.

The engine itself seems to be decent quality, I didn't check compression or anything but castings look good, doesn't seem to be slop in bearings no tappet noise etc. The muffler was absolute junk - that's my only complaint. Mig wire still stuck to it, and blatant holes. All painted over and sent out the door

Offline Mesquite cutter

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #232 on: September 13, 2020, 04:06:17 PM »
I just scored a Honda GX620 engine for $500.  The guys says it is new.  Let's hope it is.  I am having it shipped to me. 

Offline JoshNZ

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #233 on: September 13, 2020, 05:12:40 PM »
I'll give you $501 for it right now...  ;D

Nice..  thumbs-up Lazy people with too much money, my favourite kind of seller!

Offline Mesquite cutter

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Re: DIY sawmill build
« Reply #234 on: September 13, 2020, 06:18:36 PM »
I'll give you $501 for it right now...  ;D

Nice..  thumbs-up Lazy people with too much money, my favourite kind of seller!
You know what they say.  If it sounds too good to be true it probably is.   I had my nephew go by and check it out before I paid for it.   It was not new.   It was used by the Fort Worth Fire Dept and it is 9 years old.  I had to pass.  I just am not sure what kind of treatment it had in those nine years. 


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