Husqvarna 372xp spun bearing repair PTO side

[GRP7099]

Having some early model 372xp x-torq cases on hand that have had bearing failures, especially on the PTO side, I was wondering if anyone has tried any repairs on these case halves. Usually the bearing pocket is worn and will no longer retain the bearing with a press fit. Has a retaining compound such as loctite 660 ever been tried. I've used this on other machinery with success. Before I would attempt it I would like know if anyone else has tried it.

[Tacotodd]

I have thought about trying something similar to that except in the permatex brand. I know that I can get that local at one of the auto parts places. I have not had to do it yet and I am hoping that if I ever have to on my 372, we’ll let’s just say that I have graduated to something more ‘current’ by then. BTW, 2018 372xp, probably one of the last ever made. After all, I’m interested in the now apparently available MS500i that is in my Stihl dealers little booklet. I’m in Bauxite AR 72011. I thought I had punched all of that information in, but that’s what I get for thinking!

[Real1shepherd]

I would metal shim AND Loctite both. I've done this over a decade ago with no failures on a working saw. I can't even remember the saw model now, but it was a larger Husky.

Nothing proprietary about chainsaws over other machinery except being mindful about the max rpm's and constant exposure to gas/oil.

Kevin

[GRP7099]

Yeah the only real difference would be that it's in a saw compared to what I've used it for in the past, mainly on large bearing fits in industrial motors, gearboxes, etc. In the steel mill environment. The RPM's would definitely be higher. 

[Tacotodd]

If it’ll hold, it’ll hold!

[Real1shepherd]

Yeah the only real difference would be that it's in a saw compared to what I've used it for in the past, mainly on large bearing fits in industrial motors, gearboxes, etc. In the steel mill environment. The RPM's would definitely be higher.

I was a Journeyman mechanic at a gold mill in CO once upon a time. I was responsible for all the mill's equipment. Those same principles apply to every other machine I ever used.

You get that bearing shimmed in there with Loctite and you'll not have to worry. Like any saw though, try not to dog it in a cut where the chain won't spin. Take the time to free up the chain.

Kevin

[Air Lad]

I would metal shim AND Loctite both. I've done this over a decade ago with no failures on a working saw. I can't even remember the saw model now, but it was a larger Husky.

Nothing proprietary about chainsaws over other machinery except being mindful about the max rpm's and constant exposure to gas/oil.

Kevin

What material for the shim Kevin?
Also how about Devcon to fill the worn bearing housing?

[Real1shepherd]

I would metal shim AND Loctite both. I've done this over a decade ago with no failures on a working saw. I can't even remember the saw model now, but it was a larger Husky.

Nothing proprietary about chainsaws over other machinery except being mindful about the max rpm's and constant exposure to gas/oil.

Kevin

What material for the shim Kevin?
Also how about Devcon to fill the worn bearing housing?

I used a steel shim material. However today, I might noodle around the Net with a metallurgy question on which would be more dielectric; brass or steel with magnesium.

Devcon Liquid Steel would work as well...I imagine though ever removing that bearing again would be a form of hell......

Kevin  

[weimedog]

Be curious if a "long" term fix is possible. Part of the issues might be related to bearing alignment,,  If not "true" Along with vibration will repeat the issue. Not certain if the cranks were updated, but the X-torq cranks were designed to run with those goofy tall pistons they have...best balance possible will obviously help with better vibration characteristics. Something to research I guess....be fun to see if a line bore operation is possible with either a welded case, maybe an insert or even a bearing with the same id but larger OD? Be a fun exercise for a "younger" version of me. The older one just buys a new set of cases. OEM. Think the AM cases are soft and the recess may not be right for the cylinder flange. 

[Tacotodd]

Walt, I see what you are talking about, but I have not personally ever been into a case, my saw repair shop has, and they have only done it the one time. Don’t get me wrong, he did a spectacular job, and even though he is a genuine Husqvarna dealer, he said that he will “never” do it again. He said they only pay 1 1/2 hrs labor and it took him 8. Granted, he’s not practiced at it, so I could see that being the case. Even though they make you attend all of these schools, they are online, so no hands on type of things. I can see where so many shops would simply say “it must not have any oil in the fuel”, but the rest of the OE repair shops around me are even worse. What do you do? Husqvarna will not even let them send it back to them for these fairly involved repairs that are under warranty. Cripes! It almost makes me want to cry. It’s starting to look limited. Would Bob’s shop do this kind of genuinely defective repair work? If you feel like you may be trying to put words in his mouth then don’t answer this. Just get him involved if you don’t mind. I feel bad that I may be dis-railing this thread, but I am just curious. Back to the regular scheduled programming....

[GRP7099]

Weimedog, the alignment thing had me wondering too. I could turn a bushing to fit the pocket with an interference fit and make the ID the same as original. I even thought about boring the pocket for a 37mm bearing for which I've found. I guess it all comes down to how much time and effort do you put into an experiment? Honestly I might just use the 660 retaining compound, install a Farmertec crank, rod, cylinder and piston and make this a test saw.