Sticky spot on head feed of LT25.

[AnthonyW]

This has a few non-sawyer folks baffled, including myself. When I am traversing the head from the front to back, there is spot on the rail where it gets tough to make it go (like walking along and then stepping in 6" of mud). The spot starts as the leading edge fo the head passes over the back of the of the tire and lasts for 12-18". It does not matter if I am cutting or not. It does not even matter if there is a log on the bed or not.

At first I thought it was the stop bolts, but they are clear top and bottom. Then I checked the lower bearings that should be free spinning, and they are (the two bearings under the carriage in the same orientation as the tires on the mill).

We could use a few items to check, if you have any ideas.

[Southside]

Had the exact same issue on my 35, turned out to be the lower cam follower. I did replace all of them at the same time. 

[AnthonyW]

Had the exact same issue on my 35, turned out to be the lower cam follower. I did replace all of them at the same time.

That was my inital thought, but downplayed it because it is in a particular spot, 12-18" of a 24' track?

[Southside]

Yup - same exact symptoms. 

[WV Sawmiller]

  I don't know the mast configuration on the LT25 but I dumped the entire head off mine which was very traumatic. That lower cam follower is the only thing holding the bottom of the mill on the rail. I got it fixed but if you do replace it things I will do if I ever have to replace another include:

1. I'd brace the mast from above so it could not fall
2. I would be sure to keep the head as low as possible to keep the center of gravity lower and more secure.
3. I would move the head to the rear of the mill when I went to re-install the feed chain so I did not have to feed as much chain through.

  Good luck and be careful.

[Chuck White]

I had a problem like that a few years ago, just for about a foot or so, in that same area!

I checked seems like EVERYTHING, then checked behind the battery box, there was a chunk of wood there sitting on top of the shield that covers the feed chain between the two masts, and in that area was the only place it would bind!

[WDH]

I had the same problem to a T.  Checked the lower cam follower bearing and they looked OK.  However, one was decidedly warm to the touch.  Lubed them with ATF and the problem went away.  I routinely now squirt a squirt of ATF on the lower cam follower bearings before doing a lot of sawing. 

[terrifictimbersllc]

Woodmizer told me to put ATF on the rails when checking the cam followers.   So if the rails are lubricated with ATF, and you watch these bearings as the head moves along slowly, if somewhere one slides instead of turns, it is going bad.

[petefrom bearswamp]

Dont know if you walk or ride.
My old mill with the seat had that problem and it was worn bearings on the seat and it was rubbing on  the tire.

[WDH]

I had the same problem to a T.  Checked the lower cam follower bearing and they looked OK.  However, one was decidedly warm to the touch.  Lubed them with ATF and the problem went away.  I routinely now squirt a squirt of ATF on the lower cam follower bearings before doing a lot of sawing.

I stand corrected .  Today mill would go forward but not in reverse.  Would start back about 2 inches and seem to bind and then it would stop and not move at all.  I could push the head back manually.  Thought that it had to be the cam follower bearings.  Called Woodmizer Tech Support and Tech said not so.  Said that if it was the cam follower bearings, the problem would occur in both forward and reverse, and that it would likely trip the breaker due to high amps at motor.  He said that he thought that it must be the drum switch fingers not making good contact in reverse.  Told me to gently bend the fingers down to make sure that there was good contact and to apply some dielectric grease to the fingers and contact strip.  Did that and problem was resolved. 

[Stephen1]

I had the same problem to a T.  Checked the lower cam follower bearing and they looked OK.  However, one was decidedly warm to the touch.  Lubed them with ATF and the problem went away.  I routinely now squirt a squirt of ATF on the lower cam follower bearings before doing a lot of sawing.

I stand corrected .  Today mill would go forward but not in reverse.  Would start back about 2 inches and seem to bind and then it would stop and not move at all.  I could push the head back manually.  Thought that it had to be the cam follower bearings.  Called Woodmizer Tech Support and Tech said not so.  Said that if it was the cam follower bearings, the problem would occur in both forward and reverse, and that it would likely trip the breaker due to high amps at motor.  He said that he thought that it must be the drum switch fingers not making good contact in reverse.  Told me to gently bend the fingers down to make sure that there was good contact and to apply some dielectric grease to the fingers and contact strip.  Did that and problem was resolved.

I like the trouble shooting at WM. They have been helping me for almost 10 years. I dont have to call as much anymore but it sure is nice when I do. 

[Magicman]

I have had experience with a cam follower that would roll easily in one direction and jam in the other direction so never say "never" nor "always".  A bearing "ball" can split and jam in one direction or anything else that it wants to do.  Cam followers easily last me 5+ years but they are wear items and I have a couple of spares in my box.  I keep worn cam followers and they are used on my operator's seat.

[AnthonyW]

This is an LT25 all manual. So no power feed nor seat.

I have replaced the lower cam followers several times. The last ones I bought were (supposedly) rated for 8000 pounds. Paid extra for them. I will swap them out (again) find out today if that was the issue. I have changed them at three times since I purchased the mill in 2013. I doubt if I am getting two years from the lower bearings.

[Stephen1]

This is an LT25 all manual. So no feed nor seat.

I have replaced the lower cam followers several times. The last ones I bought were (supposedly) rated for 8000 pounds. Paid extra for them. I will swap them out (again) find out today if that was the issue. I have changed them at three times since I purchased the mill in 2013. I doubt if I am getting two years from the lower bearings.

Did you use OEM? just wondering

[Rob in NC]

i had the same thing on my 35 - it was just in one spot like yours. I kept pushing through it and eventually it went away. Everything visually seemed fine on the track top and bottom i just figured it was something in the rheostat since there was nothing that looked out of place. About a year later the motor went out on me and i had to pull the entire drive motor off and replace it. (its been a while im trying to remember exactly) One of the guide bolts on the bottom rail was worn almost in two - it was either a bolt that rode on the rail or one that held the motor on. You couldnt see it without removing the motor but that was my problem and im sure had a hand in the motor failing at only a couple years old. It would be a pain but i would pull the entire drive motor off and you can see all the guides on the bottom of the rail and make sure everything is like its supposed to be. Had i dont that when mine did it i would have found the problem and it would have cost me $1 instead of $250.  

[AnthonyW]

This is an LT25 all manual. So no feed nor seat.

I have replaced the lower cam followers several times. The last ones I bought were (supposedly) rated for 8000 pounds. Paid extra for them. I will swap them out (again) find out today if that was the issue. I have changed them at three times since I purchased the mill in 2013. I doubt if I am getting two years from the lower bearings.

Did you use OEM? just wondering

They were not OEM.
After I changed the bottom, it was easier but not as easy I as I recall it being. I'm wondering if I have finally lost one of the 2 pairs on the top. I'm going to order four more to have on hand for the next use.

[Stephen1]

Good luck in the change out. Keep the head secured. 

[AnthonyW]

Good luck in the change out. Keep the head secured.

I have swapping the lower bearings out down pat. I did the lowers yesterday at the saw site. 20 minutes tops. I have done either of the tops yet.

[Stephen1]

Good luck in the change out. Keep the head secured.

I have swapping the lower bearings out down pat. I did the lowers yesterday at the saw site. 20 minutes tops. Ihave done either of the tops yet.

Did it take care of the sticky spot?

[AnthonyW]

Good luck in the change out. Keep the head secured.

I have swapping the lower bearings out down pat. I did the lowers yesterday at the saw site. 20 minutes tops. Ihave done either of the tops yet.

Did it take care of the sticky spot?

That's why I'm considering changing the tops for the next job. It's mostly gone but not completely.