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Author Topic: Modifying bandwheels  (Read 881 times)

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Offline charles mann

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Modifying bandwheels
« on: May 29, 2020, 01:06:54 PM »
I have 26” 1.5” wide wheels and want to run a 1.5” blade/band, in addition to a 2”. 

Does anyone know how much of a chamfer needs to be machined off the edge/face of the wheel? 

I have not ordered blades yet, i want to machine my wheels down first before ordering. 
Temple, Tx
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Online farmfromkansas

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #1 on: May 29, 2020, 02:51:59 PM »
Would you not just set the wheels so the teeth run off the edge of the wheels?  If you need to talk to experts on wheels, call cooks saw.  Just to the left 800-473-4804.

Offline quadracutter222

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #2 on: May 29, 2020, 05:23:11 PM »
I had my steel wheels re-crowned with a 3 thousandth crown in the middle of the width. Changing saw widths would mean changing idle side tracking for 1.5 vs 2

Offline charles mann

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #3 on: May 29, 2020, 06:08:27 PM »
Would you not just set the wheels so the teeth run off the edge of the wheels?  If you need to talk to experts on wheels, call cooks saw.  Just to the left 800-473-4804.
You mean set the band to run the teeth off the wheel? 
I did call them and brandon said i could run 1.5” bands on those wheels. But a member on here said i would need to chamfer the wheel to run a 1.5”. 
I would prefer to run a 2”, but finding a 2” with the 4° hook angle above mentioned member recommended for the types of trees im cutting, isnt offered in 2”. 
Temple, Tx
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Offline charles mann

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #4 on: May 29, 2020, 06:13:11 PM »
I had my steel wheels re-crowned with a 3 thousandth crown in the middle of the width. Changing saw widths would mean changing idle side tracking for 1.5 vs 2
These are new wheels, with a crown. 
Im not opposed to changing tracking for specific bands that will yield a better cut and stay sharper longer while cutting different species of trees. Mostly bc im building an extra wide slabber, not a run of the mill or production mill. I’ll swap between pine, cedar, variants of oak, pecan/hickory and walnut. 
Temple, Tx
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Offline JoshNZ

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #5 on: May 29, 2020, 11:06:25 PM »
I don't think you need to do anything Charles, what sort of tyre is the band running on? As long as the rim of the wheel is below the tyre, just track it with the teeth hanging off the front, like you'll do with the 2". The 1.5" band will still straddle the crown so to speak, although off-centre but that doesn't matter does it?

Offline charles mann

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #6 on: May 30, 2020, 12:09:36 AM »
I don't think you need to do anything Charles, what sort of tyre is the band running on? As long as the rim of the wheel is below the tyre, just track it with the teeth hanging off the front, like you'll do with the 2". The 1.5" band will still straddle the crown so to speak, although off-centre but that doesn't matter does it?
no rubber. they are casted steel or iron wheels from cooks sawmill. 
26" Band Wheels from Cooks Saw
 
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Offline JoshNZ

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #7 on: May 30, 2020, 01:56:01 AM »
You're gonna run a metal band on cast iron wheels bare? I have heard of that I guess but something about it doesn't seem right =/ how do the big commercial mills do it

Offline tacks Y

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #8 on: May 30, 2020, 07:12:37 AM »
Why chamfer at all? I would think the 2" will just hang off the back farther.

Metal band on steel wheels? I will bet the large mills to not run belts on their wheels. My Log-Master ran steel as does my Baker. 

Offline kelLOGg

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #9 on: May 30, 2020, 01:31:25 PM »
If the teeth ride on a crowned steel wheel the set will be reduced on the up-facing teeth. The drive and idler wheels have to be tracked so that the teeth hang over the edge of the wheels to prevent contact.
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Offline Banjo picker

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #10 on: May 30, 2020, 02:17:00 PM »
My Cooks AC36 has the 26 inch steel wheels....I run 1 1/2 inch bands....that’s all I have ever run...no problem.  If I want to run 2 inch bands I would have to change the roller guides....do nothing to the wheels.  Tim
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Offline charles mann

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #11 on: May 30, 2020, 03:03:50 PM »
My Cooks AC36 has the 26 inch steel wheels....I run 1 1/2 inch bands....that’s all I have ever run...no problem.  If I want to run 2 inch bands I would have to change the roller guides....do nothing to the wheels.  Tim
Copy. My blade guide rollers are for 2”, so i’ll build them with enough adjustment to accommodate a 2” blade when i need to change. 
Temple, Tx
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Offline gmmills

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #12 on: June 02, 2020, 09:07:37 PM »

    I am running 1 1/2" wide crowned steel band wheels on my LT 70 for a number of years. I use 1 1/2" blades on these wheels. My wheels are chamfered on the front edge to protect the teeth from contacting the wheel surface. The chamfer is 1/8" wide and beveled at a 45 deg angle. I track the blades so the gullet edge is running right along the leading edge of the chamfer. The teeth are hanging out over the chamfer surface. Doing this allows the whole blade body to be in contact with the wheel surface. Blade body completely supported under tension.   
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
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Offline Southside

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #13 on: June 02, 2020, 11:02:12 PM »
GM - has that set up helped with band life / cupping? Thanks 
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Offline charles mann

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #14 on: June 03, 2020, 07:17:22 AM »

    I am running 1 1/2" wide crowned steel band wheels on my LT 70 for a number of years. I use 1 1/2" blades on these wheels. My wheels are chamfered on the front edge to protect the teeth from contacting the wheel surface. The chamfer is 1/8" wide and beveled at a 45 deg angle. I track the blades so the gullet edge is running right along the leading edge of the chamfer. The teeth are hanging out over the chamfer surface. Doing this allows the whole blade body to be in contact with the wheel surface. Blade body completely supported under tension.  
That is the exact info i was looking for. Much appreciated. 
Temple, Tx
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Offline charles mann

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #15 on: June 04, 2020, 08:30:45 PM »
Now that im home, i put a square on the wheels and there is a slight chamfer, i would say may 3/32”-1/16”. 
The crown seems to be greater to the rear. 
Is the lowest edge of the crown suppose to be at the back of the blade or facing the teeth/gullet? 

Just so im what a crown is. From my understanding during road building, the center of the road is higher than the shoulder side of the road. 
In that aspect, the high center to lowest edge deviation (1/8”-5/32”) is facing aft/rear of blade. While the lesser of the height deviation of the 2, from center, faces fwd nearest the gullet. 
Temple, Tx
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Offline gmmills

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #16 on: June 15, 2020, 10:08:27 PM »
  @Charles mann,  By your description of the location of crown, it sure sounds like Cook's placed it too far rearward. It should be placed optimally at centerline of wheel or some what forward of center. You should have them re-crowned to centerline and possibly a chamfer placed on the front edge for tooth clearance.

 @Southside, Steel crowned wheels are far superior to a belted wheel, loose or tight fitting belt. Blade life has averaged to be double that of using a belted wheel. Bet you are lucky to get 4  sharpening's from your belted wheels before blade breakage. Many of my blades go past 8 and are pulled from service because of getting too narrow to run on 1 1/2" rollers. Save them for hardware, urban, logs. Steel wheels along with guide rollers, with down pressure, offer the ultimate in blade stability.  Have many thousands of hours using steel wheels and would never consider going back to belted wheels.
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
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Offline Southside

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Re: Modifying bandwheels
« Reply #17 on: June 15, 2020, 10:15:08 PM »
Thanks gm - what does a pair of crowned wheels run for a 70?
Franklin buncher and skidder
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Woodmizer LT Super 70 and LT35 sawmill, KD250 kiln, BMS 250 sharpener and setter
Riehl Edger
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Enough cows to ensure there is no spare time.
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