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I just think of the small bands as providing leverage to the big bands to apply enough force to either winch in, or brake. The force created by the hand operated remote controller or the brake spring (#22) simply activates the lever using the winchs' own rotational force.The set screw on top of the housing that Ed mentions should have a small spring under it, which pushes on the brake band creating a slight drag on the drum (adjustable) to prevent bird nesting.
Thanks a lot guys. For all of your replies. 62Oliver, i don't quite get what you are saying there. You mean, that when one pulls on the cable, the drum goes back slightly, and locks the brake further? Thanks again.
So, i have ordered the sprocket, and splined sleeve. Tried this morning to move the drum and the input shaft by hand. It's all locked. Normal, there is no pressure to open the brake. Well. It might not be full of oil then. . Which wrenches and sockets do I need to work on this winch? Allen keys? @Pdhx20 If ever you see this. What is the Parker swivel you used? The thread in the clutch swivel's plate is the right one? Or will I have to buy a set of taps for this? Thanks a lot to you all guys. Sorry, Just saw this, that's the smallest Parker live swivel (1/4" NPT). Bought it surplus on Ebay for $25. Works perfectly but I did have to bore & tap a hole in the outer cover for a 2" pipe nipple & cap to allow it to clear. Despite what everyone says about Gearmatics, I'm happy with mine. I'm a novice but I did a really thorough job of cleaning up and lubing (never-seize) every single part, and priming and painting where appropriate. Even when it sits for 6 months, I move the master control lever and it freespools like a dream and winches in like a beast. I must have pulled 5 gallons of rust and gunk out of the band side before I even found the rods & springs !
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