Author Topic: Gearmatic specialists, hydraulics? (Read 1604 times)

62oliver · « **Reply #20 on:** June 30, 2020, 09:02:41 AM »

Oh, sorry, I missed that. That is what I will do if mine ever gives me trouble.

Satamax · « **Reply #21 on:** June 30, 2020, 11:09:53 PM »

Quote from: 62oliver on June 30, 2020, 08:24:47 AM

I just think of the small bands as providing leverage to the big bands to apply enough force to either winch in, or brake. The force created by the hand operated remote controller or the brake spring (#22) simply activates the lever using the winchs' own rotational force.

The set screw on top of the housing that Ed mentions should have a small spring under it, which pushes on the brake band creating a slight drag on the drum (adjustable) to prevent bird nesting.

Thanks a lot guys. For all of your replies.
62Oliver, i don't quite get what you are saying there. You mean, that when one pulls on the cable, the drum goes back slightly, and locks the brake further?
Thanks again.

62oliver · « **Reply #22 on:** July 01, 2020, 10:38:18 AM »

Quote from: Satamax on June 30, 2020, 11:09:53 PM

Thanks a lot guys. For all of your replies. 62Oliver, i don't quite get what you are saying there. You mean, that when one pulls on the cable, the drum goes back slightly, and locks the brake further? Thanks again.

Are you referring to "bird nesting"? On top of the winch there is a set screw as Ed mentioned, under that screw should be a small spring that pushes on the brake band (pretty sure the wide band), the brake band then rubs on the drum causing a slight drag which prevents the drum from free spooling when you pull the cable out. The amount of drag can be adjusted by turning the set screw in or out. Hope that helps.
To my mind converting a gearmatic to operate remotely would be a big undertaking. I wouldn't get rid of that remote too quickly.

Satamax · « **Reply #23 on:** July 01, 2020, 12:25:27 PM »

Quote from: 62oliver on June 30, 2020, 08:24:47 AM

I just think of the small bands as providing leverage to the big bands to apply enough force to either winch in, or brake. The force created by the hand operated remote controller or the brake spring (#22) simply activates the lever using the winchs' own rotational force.

The set screw on top of the housing that Ed mentions should have a small spring under it, which pushes on the brake band creating a slight drag on the drum (adjustable) to prevent bird nesting.

62Oliver, i was referring to this post of yours. I think i understand re reading this.

Basically what you're saying, is that the spring keeps the band rubbing slightly on the drum, and when you pull the cable by hand, it rubs a smidge more due to the friction on the drum tightening slightly the brake.

I thought you were saying that the brake was locking tighter when a log was attached at the back and pulled forward by the tractor, with the lever in the brake position.

Ed_K · « **Reply #24 on:** July 02, 2020, 02:39:19 PM »

All the spring does is push down on the top of the big band to rub on the drum enough to keep pressure so the cable doesn't pull out faster than you want it to.
The long spring #22 is what pressures the small band to turn and put pressure on the big band and lock the drum from moving while your pulling a log or 8 (cordwood)

.

Satamax · « **Reply #25 on:** July 02, 2020, 05:01:56 PM »

Thanks Ed K.

I really don't like this system. I think it's better to apply pressure on the brakes when needed. Mind you, spring loaded brakes are all over in my other job, running a chairlift.

And that's a safety feature.

Satamax · « **Reply #26 on:** July 04, 2020, 12:21:14 PM »

So, i have ordered the sprocket, and splined sleeve. Tried this morning to move the drum and the input shaft by hand. It's all locked. Normal, there is no pressure to open the brake. Well. It might not be full of oil then.

.

Which wrenches and sockets do I need to work on this winch? Allen keys?

@Pdhx20

If ever you see this. What is the Parker swivel you used? The thread in the clutch swivel's plate is the right one? Or will I have to buy a set of taps for this?

Thanks a lot to you all guys.

Ed_K · « **Reply #27 on:** July 05, 2020, 09:14:37 AM »

I retap'd mine to 1/4 npt.

Satamax · « **Reply #28 on:** July 19, 2020, 01:58:02 PM »

Hi everybody.

Am I mistaken, or the backplate adapter has a big bulge at the input shaft, compared to usual gearmatic 19 winches? I know the can car type, with the bolted ring. But I don't recall seeing that much of a cone on

other19 winches.

mike_belben · « **Reply #29 on:** July 19, 2020, 10:19:55 PM »

If youre gonna tap anything for hydraulic i suggest SAE O ring, its just a straight tap and hit the top with any countersink to make space for the Oring to crowd into. If you MUST use NPT, be sure to come off with a straight JIC fitting and not an angled one. NPT to a 90* elbow is always a recipe for too tight, too loose or not clocked right. With a straight NPT to JIC you can tighten the right amount then clock perfect with the JIC 90.

Satamax · « **Reply #30 on:** July 20, 2020, 04:12:24 PM »

Given it a try with an hydraulic handpump. Brake opens and doesn't leak. Or at least doesn't seem to. The clutch seems to lock too. Doesn't seem to leak either.tomorow, I'll try something else, with an electrohydraulic pump that I have.

pdxh20 · « **Reply #31 on:** July 29, 2020, 07:58:33 PM »

Quote from: Satamax on July 04, 2020, 12:21:14 PM

So, i have ordered the sprocket, and splined sleeve. Tried this morning to move the drum and the input shaft by hand. It's all locked. Normal, there is no pressure to open the brake. Well. It might not be full of oil then. .

Which wrenches and sockets do I need to work on this winch? Allen keys?

@Pdhx20

If ever you see this. What is the Parker swivel you used? The thread in the clutch swivel's plate is the right one? Or will I have to buy a set of taps for this?

Thanks a lot to you all guys.

Sorry, Just saw this, that's the smallest Parker live swivel (1/4" NPT). Bought it surplus on Ebay for $25. Works perfectly but I did have to bore & tap a hole in the outer cover for a 2" pipe nipple & cap to allow it to clear. Despite what everyone says about Gearmatics, I'm happy with mine. I'm a novice but I did a really thorough job of cleaning up and lubing (never-seize) every single part, and priming and painting where appropriate. Even when it sits for 6 months, I move the master control lever and it freespools like a dream and winches in like a beast. I must have pulled 5 gallons of rust and gunk out of the band side before I even found the rods & springs !

Satamax · « **Reply #32 on:** July 30, 2020, 12:03:12 AM »

Ok, thanks a lot pdxh20.

Five gallons of rust? That's a lot! I think I will hydraulicize the brake side. With a tiny cylinder, for more travel. that way, I'll be sure of the brake opening every time. For the few weeks to come, project is on hold. I'm too busy working the day job.

Ed_K · « **Reply #33 on:** July 30, 2020, 08:05:17 AM »

If you go to far with the length of stroke, part of the outside band will contact the outside casting and make the band drag on the drum. Then it won't free spool.

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