Author Topic: Gearmatic specialists, hydraulics? (Read 2828 times)

Satamax · « **Reply #40 on:** November 28, 2020, 09:07:08 AM »

Thanks a lot Ed. I'll check that.

I have the manual and part reference for the winch.

Satamax · « **Reply #41 on:** November 28, 2020, 09:12:04 AM »

With the reference you gave me, i get the bearing's dimensions. That's weird, a metric bearing in a US product!

https://forestryparts.com/bearinggearmaticwinch50792.aspx

The bolts are definitely not metric!

Satamax · « **Reply #42 on:** November 30, 2020, 04:14:18 AM »

Guys, how do you remove the hydraulic "swivel"

The little aluminium part. It doesn't turn. And i can't remove the last allen head screw.

Any idea?

Ed_K · « **Reply #43 on:** November 30, 2020, 06:54:12 AM »

I had to get a allen wrench socket type. I put it on the screw and hit it with a hammer couple times then used the impact driver to get it loose.

mike_belben · « **Reply #44 on:** November 30, 2020, 07:22:12 AM »

Put a round punch [chisel, drift pin type tool] that is smaller than the hex wrench, into the socket head and beat the thing pretty good like driving a nail in deeper.

Alternate with heat, penetrant and punch blows until it breaks loose but be very careful that your punch isnt mushing the hex face. If the hex gets ruined you can either grind a larger size sacrificial hex tool with a taper and hammer that in, or the same with a suitable torx tool and try again. Anything that will bite the socket head. Welding or brazing the tool to the allen head fastener is an option if there is no other choice and it wont harm the rest of the assembly. But i rarely fail to get one out prior to that. Drilling allen bolts isnt fun by hand.. Theyre pretty hard.

Satamax · « **Reply #45 on:** November 30, 2020, 07:22:38 AM »

Thanks a lot Ed.

I've put a pair of vice grips on the aluminium thingy, poured some WD40 on the bearing holding the thingy, and managed to budge it, so it freed the allen head, and i could remove the last screw. Now, i think i'll have to borrow a bearing "extractor", is that the right word? Because i have nothing of that size.

Satamax · « **Reply #46 on:** November 30, 2020, 07:26:30 AM »

Quote from: mike_belben on November 30, 2020, 07:22:12 AM

Put a round punch [chisel, drift pin type tool] that is smaller than the hex wrench, into the socket head and beat the thing pretty good like driving a nail in deeper.

Alternate with heat, penetrant and punch blows until it breaks loose but be very careful that your punch isnt mushing the hex face. If the hex gets ruined you can either grind a larger size sacrificial hex tool with a taper and hammer that in, or the same with a suitable torx tool and try again. Anything that will bite the socket head. Welding or brazing the tool to the allen head fastener is an option if there is no other choice and it wont harm the rest of the assembly. But i rarely fail to get one out prior to that. Drilling allen bolts isnt fun by hand.. Theyre pretty hard.

Mike, that was not the allen head screw, giving me trouble. But the L shaped hydraulic coupling attached to the swivel thingy, which was covering the allen head screw. They all came appart pretty nice. But the swivel. I think i'l have to press it out that swivel.

mike_belben · « **Reply #47 on:** November 30, 2020, 07:29:24 AM »

Gotcha, i guess i was looking at the wrong part.

"extractor" is more commonly used to describe tapered tools that are pounded into a hole you drill in a broken bolt for removal.

I think youre wanting a bearing "puller" or "jaw puller." They come in 2 jaw, 3 jaw, 4 jaw, flange, internal bore style, steering pump collet etc etc.

Satamax · « **Reply #48 on:** November 30, 2020, 07:32:13 AM »

I am wondering what to do bearing wise. Go expensive, go cheap? I have all options between 20$ and a hundred.

mike_belben · « **Reply #49 on:** November 30, 2020, 07:35:50 AM »

Not chinese.

Satamax · « **Reply #50 on:** November 30, 2020, 07:43:39 AM »

Well, i guess!

I don't think i'll go for SKF, but FAG if i can find it, or NHK/RHP.

Satamax · « **Reply #51 on:** November 30, 2020, 02:41:40 PM »

All pulled out.

So the little bearing of the swivel is 30x10 by 9mm thickness. 6200-2rs big bearing is 6216-2RS 140 x 80 x 26mm

To push the little bearing, a split 10mm piece of aluminium, pushed by a 5mm nail. As per the picture above. Pretty easy.

I don't have the part type or number for the "oil seal"

Ed_K · « **Reply #52 on:** November 30, 2020, 03:08:23 PM »

On mine I driled the plate to 1/4 NPT drill size and taped it. Then I could use a standard 1/4 swivel. Much cheaper I think I paid $70.

Satamax · « **Reply #53 on:** November 30, 2020, 03:15:53 PM »

Thanks a lot Ed. But i think i have all the parts,the little bearing costs 4 dolls. SKF even. I pushed the aluminium swivel out with the drill press. The gland cap will be cleaned with my lathe.

Besides the little and big bearings, all i need is the gland cap oil seal.

I could change all the system if i was sure it would be better than the original. Otherwise, i don't see the need for it.

Satamax · « **Reply #54 on:** December 02, 2020, 09:13:13 AM »

Found the dimensions of the seal for the gland cap. 127mm X 101.6 mm, 12mm thickness. 4"X5" X 1/2 in your metrics.

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