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Author Topic: Clearing Saw questions..  (Read 465 times)

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Offline gwat

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Clearing Saw questions..
« on: July 19, 2020, 02:38:33 PM »
I have some questions about clearing saws.  I am running both FS460 and FX545 and generally cutting 3-4" alder and conifers.

First question is : Maxi vs Scarlett blades, what is the difference? Obviously a different tooth profile when new, but what are the practical differences?  
I have been using the Scarlett blades but after seeing swamp donkey's recommendation I'm going to try a Maxi.  Is the Maxi sharpened exactly like the Scarlett? (7/32 file, 15 degrees)? 
The blade that came stock on the FS460 looks like a Maxi but has a flat cutting tooth.  Can/should I use the 7/32 to put a chisel tooth on this blade?  

Next question is about driveshaft maintenance....what do I need to know?  Is this a regular maintenance item (200 hours / monthly?).  It is not covered in the manual.

Greasing the gearbox seems straight forward, but how much grease do these things need?  The Husky manual says to keep the head 3/4 full but I find it difficult to determine the amount of grease in there.  I pull off the bolt and see nice looking grease inside....


Offline lxskllr

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Re: Clearing Saw questions..
« Reply #1 on: July 19, 2020, 07:43:15 PM »
The Maxi and Scarlett seem about the same to me. I use my Stihl 13/64 file on them.

Greasing the driveshaft probably isn't a bad idea. Don't know how often, but a check at 25hr seems about right. Adjust from there depending on what you see.

My old echo cutter said to squirt grease til it comes out the hole, so that's what I do with my Husky too. So far, so good.

Welcome!

Offline John Mc

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Re: Clearing Saw questions..
« Reply #2 on: July 20, 2020, 04:38:36 PM »
I was using Scarlet blades for a few years until I saw Swamp Donkey's recommendation to try the Maxi blades. I will never switch back. The Maxi blades seem to be better steel. They seem to hold an edge better than the Scarlet, and I don't have to reset the tooth offset as much.
If the only tool you have is a hammer, you tend to see every problem as a nail.   - Abraham Maslow

Offline gwat

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Re: Clearing Saw questions..
« Reply #3 on: August 01, 2020, 08:09:39 PM »
Thanks for the responses. 
Can anyone point me in the right direction for a turorial on driveshaft maintenance?
Specifically the 545FX has some vibration going on..seems like the spacers within the shaft could wearing? (I removed the cutter head and powerhead to isolate the shaft).  How serviceable are the internals of the main shaft?

Offline lxskllr

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Re: Clearing Saw questions..
« Reply #4 on: August 01, 2020, 08:24:27 PM »
I haven't done anything to my Husky. I know Stihl has a part# for the bushings. Echo you had to buy a whole new tube. Checkout an ipl for that unit, and see what they give for part #s.

Offline joe_indi

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Re: Clearing Saw questions..
« Reply #5 on: August 02, 2020, 04:32:14 AM »
Driveshaft maintainance. They come in two types inside. The Stihl type with the support inside. I checked up the details on the only Husky 333R that I have handled, it seems similar to the Stihl 
For these take off any end that is easier for you. Pull out the shaft and push it in. You should get a slight resistance from the lubricant. If it goes in freely it needs greasing. Take out the shaft and wipe it. Don't use regular grease. Stihl has a special silicone lubricant aka Multipurpose grease (Picture of a chainsaw on the tube). Apply a very thin film of this lubricant to the shaft. I do half length of the shaft then insert it to that point in the tube and then do the rest. Now try pulling out and push it back in. You will feel a resistance. That means the shaft is lubed and ready. Another practice that I follow is to reverse the shaft, the end that was at the clutch goes into the gear box. Better for even wear of the ends and to avoid the same wearing points in the tube.
The other type that I have seen here is where the shaft rides in gunmetal bushes. (see the picture)
In this type gunmetal bushes are located at both the ends (a little inside from the ends actually) and at the center. These bushes are held in place by rubber bushings on either side.
In this type the shaft is removed and grease is pushed/pumped in (We use a grease packet with a corner cut off, held at one end and squeezed) until the grease comes out the other end. The shaft is then inserted. Some grease will be displaced by the shaft.

I think here too, when you pull and push the shaft you should get some resistance. If not, some SAE 240 g ear oil added from the top should move things back to the shaft.  

Offline joe_indi

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Re: Clearing Saw questions..
« Reply #6 on: August 02, 2020, 04:40:36 AM »
Thanks for the responses.
Can anyone point me in the right direction for a turorial on driveshaft maintenance?
Specifically the 545FX has some vibration going on..seems like the spacers within the shaft could wearing? (I removed the cutter head and powerhead to isolate the shaft).  How serviceable are the internals of the main shaft?
Googled Husky 545FX and got an image. I think has a similar setup like the Stihl. So lubing the shaft should be good enough.  
https://www.diyspareparts.com/parts/husqvarna/diagrams/545fx-1/60563a22-1f78-4329-a6a5/

Offline gwat

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Re: Clearing Saw questions..
« Reply #7 on: August 02, 2020, 09:37:09 PM »
^thanks Joe.
I'm thinking part#4 in that diagram could be the culprit.
When I remove the powerhead (and cutter head) the clutch drum is attached to the driveshaft at the powerhead end.  I can't knock the driveshaft through (even with light persuasion from a hammer).  Do I need to somehow get the clutch drum off and slide it out from the cutter head end?


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