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Author Topic: End sealer  (Read 935 times)

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Offline WDH

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #20 on: September 12, 2020, 08:07:11 PM »
Got another 5 gallon pail of anchorseal today.  I am sticking with the anchorseal.  In the long run, it is worth it to me.  I found paint to not be useless, but it is close  :).  
Woodmizer LT40HDD35, John Deere 2155, Kubota M5640SU, Nyle L53 Dehumidification Kiln, and a passion for all things with leafs, twigs, and bark.  hamsleyhardwood.com

Offline Walnut Beast

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #21 on: September 12, 2020, 10:33:18 PM »
Doesnt seem Anchorseal make the smaller buckets anymore? Wonder why ?

Online doc henderson

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #22 on: September 12, 2020, 10:42:12 PM »
I still see a quart or gallon size for anchorseal.  on amazon
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline Walnut Beast

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #23 on: September 12, 2020, 10:58:39 PM »
Good deal. I bought from the company sometime ago then noticed they didnt seem to offer the smaller pail I had got.

Offline Walnut Beast

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #24 on: September 12, 2020, 11:03:21 PM »
Just looked on there site. Its the colored one I wanted to get thats only in 5 gallon buckets now. They used to offer in smaller buckets in different colors 

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #25 on: September 12, 2020, 11:07:20 PM »
prob. right on that note.  I looked on amazon.  can call the company and see what type of pigment they use.  not sure if it water based, or other?  if it is regular paint pigment, see if your local paint or hardware store will throw some in it for you.  I had questions and spoke to the UC coating company and they were very helpful.  
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline Brad_bb

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #26 on: September 15, 2020, 08:39:25 PM »
I only use Anchor seal original.  When you calculate the cost per BF, it's so miniscule, it's not worth my time to chase those pennies. There are a lot of other ways to save time or money that are more worth while by pursuing other avenues of efficiency.  If you mill very little wood though, the up front cost is a real cost to you.   
Anything someone can design, I can sure figure out how to fix!
If I say it\\\\\\\'s going to take so long, multiply that by at least 3!

Offline Larry

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #27 on: September 15, 2020, 09:15:22 PM »
Some woodturning clubs buy a 55 gallon drum of Anchorseal and resell at cost to turners.  If somebody peddling wood @YellowHammer had a drum and the word got out they were reselling, turners might just buy a $100 of wood while picking up a gallon. :)
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #28 on: September 15, 2020, 10:47:26 PM »
I just might do that, I could order it by the tote.  

I just looked at ordering some 5 gallon buckets of Anchorseal, but see on their website they are apparently still charging $33 for shipping per 5 gallons.  So for me to order 10 gallons costs $66 in shipping.  I canceled the order.    

I have been using the Kilngspors, its made in bulk by another company, $17 per gallon, $7 flat rate shipping for the entire order.  Ive been using it for maybe a couple years now, and I actually prefer it over the Anchoseal.  It seems to lay on a little thicker, goes through my spray equipment well, and there isnt any difference in end cracking.  Its also 30% less expensive and also saves me nearly $60 in shipping and can be ordered online with the click of a button.  
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it wont roll, its not a log; its still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyre burned, and you cant fix them.  Dont burn the cookies.

Offline GeneWengert-WoodDoc

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #29 on: September 16, 2020, 08:24:32 AM »
An effective end sealer must be able to attach to green wood, must be applied before any checking begins, and must stop the ends from drying. 

Many so-called end coatings fail in one of these three.  However, as the species the poor coatings are used on do not check easily, it appears that the coatings work.  The more expensive the wood, the more critical to use an expensive and effective coating applied correctly.

 In the wintertime, water leaving the wood through the end can form ice and then the coating covers the ice but not the wood, so the coating must be put on the fresh end ASAP.  In the summertime, the ends begin to dry soon after being sawn, so again, ASAP.
Gene - Author of articles in Sawmill & Woodlot and books: Drying Hardwood Lumber; VA Tech Solar Kiln; Sawing Edging & Trimming Hardwood Lumber. And more

Offline Walnut Beast

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #30 on: September 16, 2020, 01:27:05 PM »
An effective end sealer must be able to attach to green wood, must be applied before any checking begins, and must stop the ends from drying.

Many so-called end coatings fail in one of these three.  However, as the species the poor coatings are used on do not check easily, it appears that the coatings work.  The more expensive the wood, the more critical to use an expensive and effective coating applied correctly.

 In the wintertime, water leaving the wood through the end can form ice and then the coating covers the ice but not the wood, so the coating must be put on the fresh end ASAP.  In the summertime, the ends begin to dry soon after being sawn, so again, ASAP.
So what do you recommend besides Anchorseal ??

Online doc henderson

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #31 on: September 16, 2020, 01:30:02 PM »
so I would ask it this way.  is there anything better than anchorseal for the same price, or anything just as good, but cheaper.  I think there not going to be a consistent answer.  @GeneWengert-WoodDoc @WDH @YellowHammer
timberking B 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor 12 volt tarp motor

Offline K-Guy

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #32 on: September 16, 2020, 04:22:18 PM »

Everyone has an opinion, plus who decides what is good enough?
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #33 on: September 16, 2020, 09:39:58 PM »
I guess the name Klingspors Green Wood Sealer kind of puts people off. :D :D  It makes it sounds bush league.

But what if I had called it Sealtite 60 End Coating from ISK Biocides?

Sealtite 60 End Coating

 It is a professional end coating.  Klingspors and other companies just rebottle and rename.


YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it wont roll, its not a log; its still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyre burned, and you cant fix them.  Dont burn the cookies.

Offline xlogger

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Re: End sealer
« Reply #34 on: Yesterday at 05:35:40 AM »
Most of my logs I get have been cut a week or more. Is there any need to paint them? I usually do. Most of the time I can't cut off much of the ends. I need the lengths. If I get a 16 ft I cut it into half then paint. 
Timberking 2000, Turbo slabber Mill, 584 Case, Bobcat 773, solar kiln, Nyle L-53 DH kiln


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