Perkins shingle mill

[kevinj54]

We have made some progress!!




 

 

 

 

I have poured new bearings, cleaned & repaired stuff.

This had a homemade wooden carriage and I may have to make one as I cannot find an original.

Does anyone have any experience building one??

[moodnacreek]

It is rare to hear from someone rebuilding and trying to reproduce missing cast iron parts for old machines. I had hoped to meet some one in this forum that had made hydraulic dogs for a conventional sawmill but no luck yet. There's people out there but i think they work more in their shop than on the computer.  

[JuddE1948]

A buddy of mine and I are restoring a Perkins mill that looks very similar to the one you have.  We need to pour new bearings and turn or replace the pulley shaft.  Did you remove the pulley/flywheel and blace backing flange (inner) when

 

 doing your restoration.  I've attached a few photos.  Thanks.

[kevinj54]

A buddy of mine and I are restoring a Perkins mill that looks very similar to the one you have.  We need to pour new bearings and turn or replace the pulley shaft.  Did you remove the pulley/flywheel and blace backing flange (inner) when
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 doing your restoration.  I've attached a few photos.  Thanks.

Nope.
My arbor was in good enough shape that I just poured new bearings.
Note that the arbor bottom bearing has a bronze thrust plate in it to carry the vertical load.

[JuddE1948]

Oh, see here you didn't have to remove shaft.  We did find the bronze thrust plate...needs replaced.  I'm guessing your machine had set up for oiling the bearings, correct?  Someone has installed grease fittings on ours.  Not sure this is the best for the bearings.

 

[JuddE1948]

Now I see the oilers on one of your photos...

[handhewn]

I went through the discussion of using grease on poured babbit bearings with a very old school but knowledgeable old man. He was convinced that grease was not the way to go. Grease fittings have frequently replaced the original oil cups that were filled with what he referred to as cotton waste that slowly dripped oil into the bearing. He suggested the upgrade of changing to the brass and glass see through oil holder/canister (don't know correct word) where you can see the oil level at a glance and adjust the flow (to the observation of how fast the oil level drops) or not by opening or closing the valve at the bottom of the oil holder/canister. The old brass and glass are far more agreeable to the eye than their modern counterparts. Open type oil cups would obviously not work on this particular machine as wood chips would quickly clog the cups unless you get the type that has the nice little spring loaded caps. You can find the brass/glass ones on feebay.

[farmfromkansas]

If you were using grease, would it not be important to use a lithium base grease?

[moodnacreek]

Replacing oilers with grease fittings is probably not a good idea. On some old time 'flywheel engines' they used  greasers on the rod bearing but oilers on the mains [and piston]. If you think about this the mains like your mandrel on a saw or shingle mill are considered high speed and need to be rather dripping wet to survive where a slow feed bearing will not throw the grease out fast. And these greasers had ample supply and where spring loaded as putting in zerks does not do this. Sight glass oilers are the thing except they are easy to break off.

[JuddE1948]

Thanks for the several replies about grease fittings vs oilers.  I agree oilers here would be best.  I work with a number of portable steam engines and tractors which have a variety of oilers and greasing mechanisms.  I think a drip oiler for the shingle mill might be what we want to do. 

[kevinj54]

I came up up with some more parts.

I cut a few and it seems to work!!!

I need to make some final adjustments

 and such.

[JuddE1948]

Wow, looks great.  We are making progress on ours.  Will send a few pics.  We should get a new spindle turned next week and hopefully pour bearings soon.

[moodnacreek]

I hope you don't over tax that Farmall ! Isn't it nice to finish something, that's the hardest part. Congratulations.

[kevinj54]

I hope you don't over tax that Farmall ! Isn't it nice to finish something, that's the hardest part. Congratulations.

It was hard on it!!!
Shoulda put the 560 diesel on it!!
I use both tractors at our show, better to have extra power than be short...

[kevinj54]

Thanks for the several replies about grease fittings vs oilers.  I agree oilers here would be best.  I work with a number of portable steam engines and tractors which have a variety of oilers and greasing mechanisms.  I think a drip oiler for the shingle mill might be what we want to do.

For anything over a couple hundred rpm I would stay with oil.
We use 30 or 40 non detergent and have not had any issues.
Another option is steam cylinder oil, several of the steam guys use that on their babbitts.

[JuddE1948]

 

 

[JuddE1948]

Thanks Kevin,  wanted to ask about the carriage on your mill.  Does the cradle that holds the block have adjustment holes on one side that would allow for moving one side of the clamp to cut different length shingles?  Also, what length of shingle have you been cutting.  I'll attach a photo of the carriage on our mill.

[JuddE1948]

A few photos of our progress

 

 

[kevinj54]

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

Did you build that???
I never saw one like that on a Perkins, Your center cross member is a lot different too.

[kevinj54]

Thanks Kevin,  wanted to ask about the carriage on your mill.  Does the cradle that holds the block have adjustment holes on one side that would allow for moving one side of the clamp to cut different length shingles?  Also, what length of shingle have you been cutting.  I'll attach a photo of the carriage on our mill.

Most are setup 15" - about 18"
We always cut 16" at our shows