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Author Topic: 4 degree vs turbo 7  (Read 2310 times)

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Online Magicman

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4 degree vs turbo 7
« on: November 12, 2020, 08:53:34 AM »
This is simply an observation on my part, not a degree war.

I have been exclusively using T7's for a couple of years with no regard for whatever log species I was sawing.  (I let attrition eliminate my stash of 10 blades long ago.)  OK, so what's up now?

The job that I am presently sawing so far is all SYP, which includes some very knotty logs with some of the knots ranging up to ~6"+.  I had a partial box of 4 blades so I said "what the heck".  The 4 blades are sawing very well but the blade life suffers.  I am having to change blades more often and using 3 blades where I normally would use 2.  The less blade angle introduces more scraping that allows the 4 blade to saw straight but also dulls it quicker.  More scraping equals more dulling.

So now what?  I'll run out of my stash of 4 blades next week and will be back to sawing with my T7's while the 4 blades go to Resharp. 
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Offline YellowHammer

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #1 on: November 12, 2020, 09:06:37 AM »
I agree.  I have let all my other blade angles go extinct over time and just replace them with Turbos (not the 747s).

I havent seen any species I cant saw well and fast with a sharp .055 x 1.5 Turbo, and lots I can saw with a dull one. ::)

I hate to admit it, but I leave my bands on longer than I should and sometimes switch species rather than change the band.  Is the band getting dull near the end of a whack? Ill finish the session with a few soft maple logs, cherry or maybe some basswood.   :D   Then turn the mill off and come back the next day and put on a new one.  

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Offline WV Sawmiller

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #2 on: November 12, 2020, 09:08:31 AM »
   How is the comparison between the performance on those knots? Do the 4* blades saw through them straighter than the T7's? Do the T7's want to rise on the knots? I am phasing out everything except my 4* blades and have tried a few T7s but likely did not give them a fair eval. You have more hp than I do too.
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Offline Southside

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #3 on: November 12, 2020, 09:29:03 AM »
Yup - guilty of the same thing YH.  "Oh I can finish this log" before changing the band....about that time I am looking at each board hoping to not see the wave of "nope should have changed the band earlier".   ::)
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Offline Bruno of NH

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #4 on: November 12, 2020, 12:01:38 PM »
I have been sawing lots of hemlock and spruce as of late.
Not much bigger than 20" on the butt .
I have been using turbo 7 in .042 x 1.25.
It's fast and true lumber is a result. On the spruce if I flood it with blade lube they cut for a long time .
Lube dosen t matter much on hemlock it's wet and no pitch.
I used 4 in the past on spruce and I agree that they cut flat but dull much quicker. 
When the logs freeze in a few weeks all other bands get put away till spring.
I only use frost notch bands in the winter or I wouldn't saw at all. 1.25 .050.
They only last one maybe 2 sharpening. They only cost $18.00 per band delivered to the mill.
I didn't like the turbo 7 at first but have they now have a place in my operation. 
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Offline Bruno of NH

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #5 on: November 12, 2020, 12:04:56 PM »
The 747's cut nice but dull much to quick for me.
The tall tooth might be why maybe ?
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Offline barbender

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #6 on: November 12, 2020, 12:09:58 PM »
I'm still running standard 7, I never have tried the Turbo. I suppose I should. I only tried one 4. I know Magic saws em and leaves em, but I've gotten to the point when sawing my own that if the knots are so big it causes sawing problems, I know the lumber will be junk as well. Some of our white spruce that has big knots, you can pull the board of and break it just setting it over your knee, you don't even have to try.

I usually don't mill much in the winter as that's our busy time out in the woods. I am planning on keeping it rolling this year though, I'm sure I'll have some teething issues😊 I may have to try some frost notch blades.

YH, I've been guilty of going out searching the yard for some easy sawing wood when a blade has lost a bit of its edge, too😂
Too many irons in the fire

Offline SawyerTed

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #7 on: November 12, 2020, 12:37:32 PM »
I have used 4 blades mostly but have 45 or so Turbo 7s that I havent been using.  Im reaching the end life on some of my 4 blades and will need to settle one way or another.  What I probably should do is to saw with both sometime to compare the results. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #8 on: November 12, 2020, 03:19:03 PM »

 I buy my blades at 10 and sharpen to 4.  The sharpened 4 cut straighter longer than the new 10 blades.  I'm not even going to try blades with pointy teeth that cant take a metal hit.  I did try Cooks super sharp with the pointy teeth once years ago , didn't saw as straight as the Simonds I was running and a metal hit ruined 1 of the 2 blades I tried . Steve
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #9 on: November 12, 2020, 07:21:40 PM »
How is the comparison between the performance on those knots? Do the 4* blades saw through them straighter than the T7's? Do the T7's want to rise on the knots?
Howard, either will saw knots when then are sharp and both will wave when they get dull.  The T7's stay sharper longer and hands down will remain my go-to blade.  I only have 5 more sharp 4 blades and will be glad when they get dull so I can go back to those "pointy tooth" T7's because they allow me to saw faster and have no species preference.  I only tried this sorta experiment because I had that partial box of 4 blades and got tired of kicking it aside.  I suppose that after they are resharpened I can resume kicking it.  ::)

I have no desire to "chase blades" so I have not and do not intend to even try the 747's.  
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Offline kelLOGg

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #10 on: November 12, 2020, 07:45:38 PM »
My opinion is that discussions about tooth angle should involve engine horsepower. On my low power mill (16 HP) I plan to always use 4 on everything. If I had 30+ HP as do most hydraulic mills it would be a different story. There, 7 to 10 angle teeth are a plus. Comments?
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Offline barbender

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #11 on: November 12, 2020, 08:24:17 PM »
There's more to the story than just hook angle. Tooth height, back angle, set, blade thickness...to be honest, good ol' 10 blades of all brands have given me good service, they all seem to have a similar middle of the road profile. I'd shy away from blades that have the tall pointy teeth with a low horsepower mill (like the WM 747). I'd say the same if it was a 1047 or 447 as well😁
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Offline Southside

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #12 on: November 12, 2020, 09:09:58 PM »
There is a member on here who has had good success with T7's on a 13 HP mill, can't remember who.  Cut width will play a major factor in success as well.  I started running 1.5" turbos on my LT 35 with a 25 HP gas engine, which is completely outside of what should work.  The difference?  I use it as a re-saw to make clapboard siding, so the width of cut is 7".  Performance is impacted by a wide range of factors. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #13 on: November 12, 2020, 09:58:34 PM »
I do not saw as much as a lot of you on here do but the turbo 7's, which I was so excited about using, did not deliver the mail in longleaf pine (12-14" heartwood) or the live oak like I had hoped it would.  The 4 and regular 7 have been performing well for us.  Lately, we have been buying 7 and having them sharpened to 4 (the guy who sharpens for us has a 4 grind on his wheel).  I have not used the .055 x 1.5" 7's.  They may do better in what we saw than  the .045, 1.25" turbo 7's that we got when we brought home this mill.  If I were sawing cypress all the time, I would probably order 10 or 13 blades and run wide open.

It is really gratifying to fly through a cant but we spend much more time sorting, stacking, drying and sterilizing than we do sawing.  I would much rather saw flat, accurate lumber than saw fast.

If I were running a lower horsepower mill, I would exclusively run 4 blades.

Recently, we sawed some longleaf with a resharpened 1.25 x 4 blade, put it on the rack to be resharpened, trashed a new 1.5, 7 in pecan with hardware, reinstalled the 4 to cut over 30 live oak tree cookies and then sawed three pecan logs with it, expecting to trash it - all dead flat.
4 would be my go to if I could have only one.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #14 on: November 12, 2020, 10:22:08 PM »
caveman
For what its worth, I tried Turbo 7s, .045 x 1.25 in my old LT40 and just hated them.  I didnt even finish the box, and tossed them.  They wandered and left disagreeable streaks on the boards.  

I later tried .055 x 1.25 Turbos on my LT40 and they were much better, and would cut as fast as I could push the the mill.  However, they were very hard in my drive belt, and I had to tighten it much more frequently.  I eventually settled on a mix of 7s and Turbos.

With the LT70 I tried a couple boxes of most everything I could get my hands on, and by far, with this mill, the .055 x 1.5 Turbos were head and shoulders above anything else I tried, including the new 747s.  The only exception was the two carbides I tried, they cut very flat and true, and for a long time.  
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #15 on: November 12, 2020, 10:23:10 PM »
First, I don't run a debarker which makes a difference.

I tried the .045 1-1/4 T7's when they first came out.  They cut fast and true until they started to dull and I got waves.  The reason I think is that extra deep gullet doesn't leave enough meat in the body of the band to make it run true.  Next I tried the .055 1-1/4's and the 1-1/2's.  The wave problem was solved but the bands were expensive and they broke early compared to the .045's.

Next I tried the Kasco 7's with the same geometry as the T7.  I picked 1-1/2 .050 bands which WM doesn't offer.  It's difficult to get them to wave, but I can still do it if I really push them when they are dull (abuse).  They run nearly as long as the .045's before breaking and the cost is reasonable.  These Kasco 7's are by far the best band I have ever used.  I'm using them everyday cutting hardwood slabs from 20 to 32" wide.

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Offline Andries

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #16 on: November 12, 2020, 10:27:05 PM »
I don't saw much cedar anymore, but when I do, the WM 7 degree bands are good.
Elm. ash and oak are on the mill most weeks, and a lot of those city trees have high metal content. The Kasco 4 degree works well on the hardwoods, and doesn't quit after hitting an embarrassing amount of metal.
I'm with Caveman, milling is a 'material handling' exercise.
Most days I'm on my own. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #17 on: November 13, 2020, 09:19:10 AM »
My lt15 is 10hp diesel, ordered a box of blades at purchase time. Went to pick it up and they asked me what kind of blades I wanted?? I was ill prepared and asked them what they recommended. Don't do that :D :D :D :D :D :D :D They "recommended" (salesman'd) me into a box of 747s. So far working OK but do seem to start to dull and wave faster than the 10*s do in all species I have cut (white pine, hemlock, hard maple, soft maple, elm, black cherry). Probably would not recommend for low hp mill but don't have anywhere near the experience you folks do. Note to self, don't get overwhelmed and remember to study before quiz time

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #18 on: November 13, 2020, 10:06:08 AM »
I really don't understand why Woodmizer is pushing those things so hard. I get an email almost daily, "Woodmizer 747, they fly through everything you saw". I just don't understand, aren't they making the same profit if they sell a box of 10's, instead of a box of 747's etc? My experience is that they are not in any way the "do all" blade they are marketing them as.
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Offline terrifictimbersllc

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #19 on: November 13, 2020, 10:32:51 AM »
If, for me,  theres a do-all blade so far in the Wood-Mizer lineup, it is the 7 turbo.

I converted to 7 turbo for my last 4 years with a 42 Kubota, 158  1-1/4 .045, and continued with them in 195 1-1/2 0.055 with 55 Yanmar. In both cases the 7 turbo saw everything I encounter flat and fast as can be except for very knotty spruce, which takes some strategy to break down to narrow width first.

The 747s, I only tried two of them, sawed fine, but one of them got wiped out completely by a medium nail strike a 7 turbo would have survived. I didnt see any reason to switch to them.
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Offline Bruno of NH

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #20 on: November 13, 2020, 03:50:47 PM »
The 747 tooth sticks out and says , break me please.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #21 on: November 13, 2020, 03:57:30 PM »
I guess Im sawing with T7s tomorrow since this is my 4 wheel.

I was getting frustrated with my 4 bands.  Now I know why - theres nothing left to sharpen the tooth face.  Too many attempts at recovering metal strike blades  🙄 


 

 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #22 on: November 13, 2020, 04:44:49 PM »
I really don't understand why Woodmizer is pushing those things so hard. I get an email almost daily, "Woodmizer 747, they fly through everything you saw". I just don't understand, aren't they making the same profit if they sell a box of 10's, instead of a box of 747's etc? My experience is that they are not in any way the "do all" blade they are marketing them as.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #23 on: November 13, 2020, 05:24:15 PM »
I havent tried turbo 7s on my mill yet. I probably will at some point, but so far Im really happy with Kasco 7s. Seem to work good in everything from cedar to white oak. Cut some knotty yellow pine today and sawed straight in that too. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #24 on: November 13, 2020, 05:56:08 PM »
I've been running a box of 7 Kascos I got from Cutting Edge. They are the milder ones, I don't know what they're called but Richard said they were better if you weren't pushing your saw full tilt all the time. They are a good blade and cut great in the wood I saw.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #25 on: November 13, 2020, 07:45:47 PM »
I have been running Turbo 7s for a while. I use .45 x 1.25 on my lt40 Kubota. The run good in most everything I cut until the get dull.  The only problem I have had is a nail strike takes out 1/4-1/2 the teeth on a blade compared to a few teeth on the 9 degree blades. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #26 on: November 13, 2020, 08:49:40 PM »
I took one of the blades with me when I picked up my BMS250 sharpener that came with my LT 35 mill that were dull.. turns out the previous owner was running some turbo 739 bands.. so I grabbed a cbn wheel for them as well as for my 10 degree bands.  I cut almost all hemlock.  I sharpened the 739 turbo bands (keep in mind I've never sharpened before) with 2 light passes on the sharpener.  then set the teeth to about 23 thousands.  (first time ever using setter) and was super impressed with the turbo 739 band on my gas LT 35.  It appeared to cut flat and very fast compared to my 10 degree bands.  I have about 30 of these turbo 739 bands that were used that came with the mill.  I'm gonna run a few of my used 10 degree bands to make a good comparison but I felt the turbo 739 cut very well..

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #27 on: November 14, 2020, 07:18:12 PM »
I have read several comments about how 4 blades seem to handle metal strikes better and are more easily recovered than "pointy teeth" T7's.  Remember that I only saw customer's logs.  When I strike metal, I change the blade, add a $30 blade charge to the customer's invoice and continue sawing.  I have no interest whatsoever in whether the blade can be reclaimed because it goes into the junk pile.  My only consideration is what blade saws the best/flattest and fastest for me.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #28 on: November 14, 2020, 10:42:55 PM »
So good to hear opinions about different blades and the basis for these opinions. 
When I started sawing (just two years ago), my only blade was 4 degree. This was based on recommendation by Tim with WM, Newman GA.  I had 15 of these resharpened by a nearby sawyer who sharpened them to turbo 7s.  I have since also purchased a box of 747s and a box of 10s. Over the last couple of weeks, Ive sawed about 8,000 bf of poplar, all 1 x 16/14/12 with my LT35HD with a 25HP Kohler and used all four of these blade types.  The 4s cut the flattest and smoothest while leaving a lot of sawdust on the boards. The T7s cut good and removed a lot more of the sawdust but seemed to dull quicker and start diving at knots even when I slowed down. The 747s did not cut smooth at all. Maybe I just dont have enough power for these. The 10s seemed to dull the quickest.  Based on others comments in this thread, the best blade seems to vary with HP, cut length and wood density. In my case, Ill probably migrate to 4s for most everything.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #29 on: November 15, 2020, 07:48:54 AM »
Yesterday I used Turbo 7s to saw around 600 bdft of walnut. They cut smooth and flat.  Sawing speed was a bit faster than 4 blades. 

I have portable jobs Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday.  The new 4 CBN wheel wont be here so Ill be using T7 bands.  Im satisfied they will do the jobs.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #30 on: November 15, 2020, 10:44:52 AM »
what is the difference between the turbo 739 bands I have and the turbo 747 you guys are using?  I have only ever cut with 10 degree bands until I just tried out these 739s.

thanks

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #31 on: November 15, 2020, 12:17:57 PM »
what is the difference between the turbo 739 bands I have and the turbo 747 you guys are using?  I have only ever cut with 10 degree bands until I just tried out these 739s.

thanks
The designations/names  confuse me sometimes. I think, and I may have this wrong, the 7 degree turbos are tall tooth blades with more meat on the backside than a 747 blade. A few years ago, I tried a couple turbos(7/39) cutting sitka spruce...they were kinda slow cutting compared to the 13 degree blades I was using at the time.They cut strait untill the knots showed up and the 13's performed much better than them in sitka(softwood).. The 747 blades seem to like the sitka right out of the box and they cut strait...for me...I had to doctor the 13's to get them to cut strait(way more set)in the sitka..Ive learned from this forum that hardwoods and SYP are much different animals than what Im used to....
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #32 on: November 16, 2020, 07:11:17 AM »
I got a PM asking whether I use 1X.045 or 1X.055 blades.  My reply is copied below: 

I am using 1" - .045, but the 1" - .055 would saw flatter.  My problem with .055 blades on my 19" bandwheels was much less blade life.  The LT70 has larger bandwheels so the blade life with .055 blades is much better. 

Everything seems to be a sorta trade off balancing act weighing the pro's and con's so there is really no right or  wrong, just different decisions based on the different sawmills and sawing markets.


This topic has generated several interesting replies regarding the different blade tooth profiles, etc. that we use for sawing different species plus different sawmill setups.  There is no one-size-fits-all.  I think that I have enough 4 blades to saw for a couple of days before they are all dull.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #33 on: November 16, 2020, 08:08:21 AM »
The Standard Turbo's, just like the 747 Turbos have a deep gullet (tall tooth) and both carry more sawdust out of the kerf than the standard WM 7's, even though all three have a 7 degree tooth.  The standard 7's, with a shallower gullet, spills more sawdust and cuts straight for me in hardwood and moderately fast.  Since the gullet is shallow, they retain a good deal of beam strength in .045 thickness and were my preferred blade for the 19" inch wheels on my LT40.

The .045 Turbos, with the deep gullet, in the same .045 thickness, had less beam strength and wandered more in hardwood, and also produced a scratchy surface on the board faces, where I could tell it wasn't "happy."  So I changed over to 7/39 .055 Turbos and magic happened, the beam strength was back, the saw cut as fast as I could push it, which results in much less sawdust on the board and no hand scraping.  So that was very desirable, fast cutting and little sawdust.  However, that's when I started having drive belt issues and band fatigue problems.  So when a band breaks, it sometimes tears up the bandweel belts so I was losing time and money where they popped.  So I went back to standard 7's.

When I got my LTSuper 70 Wide, I found that there really isn't any band or even brand it doesn't like, but the .055 x 1.5" 7/39 Turbos really perform well.  Noticeably better than any other band including the 747's.  Faster, smoother, and very little sawdust.

Having had 3 different types of mills over the years, there is no doubt that there is no silver bullet for bands, each one has advantages and issues.  The best thing is to get a few of each, hang them on the wall, get into a good sawing rhythm and run a few to dull, with no preconceived notions.   
  
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #34 on: November 17, 2020, 08:58:53 PM »
I put my last sharp 4 blade on this afternoon to test it's ability to saw nails.


 
It's toast and I had grown weary of changing the 4 blades about every 2 hours anyway.

I am going to call Resharp and have them replace a couple of reject 4's with 1"X.045, T7's.  I am not interested in chasing blades, but they should be better for me than the 4.  I'll see if I can tell any difference between the 1" and 1".   ???
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #35 on: November 18, 2020, 06:20:49 AM »
I guess Im sawing with T7s tomorrow since this is my 4 wheel.

I was getting frustrated with my 4 bands.  Now I know why - theres nothing left to sharpen the tooth face.  Too many attempts at recovering metal strike blades  🙄

(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)
 
(Image hidden from quote, click to view.)

     
  How many bands did you sharpen before the wheel wore out?   I think you ran it a little too long.  Steve
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #36 on: November 18, 2020, 03:56:42 PM »
In the neighborhood of 300 ish.  I found two things that led to the wheels early demise.  First in the last 6 weeks or so Ive had an unusual number of nail strikes and Ive been using a heavy face grind.  Second, and probably more important is the tube from the pump to the wheel that carries cutting oil had a partial clog. 

So it was a combination of inexperience and being penny wise and pound foolish.  I need to examine my metal strike blades closer and be much more judicious in trying to recover blades that hit metal.   And I need to be more careful about cleaning up the cutting oil in the sharpener.

Sawed white oak today.  Several logs were from trees that have been cur a good while, T7s did not cut true - too many waves.  I was able to sharpen several 4s yesterday and they got me through.  One of the white oak logs was about as hard as any wood Ive cut.  

The T7s were fine in the green oaks. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #37 on: November 18, 2020, 06:53:12 PM »
Were those 045 or 055 Turbos that didnt do well in the white oak? 
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If it wont roll, its not a log; its still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyre burned, and you cant fix them.  Dont burn the cookies.

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #38 on: November 18, 2020, 11:40:18 PM »
They were .045.  But Im telling you the white oak logs were dry, very dry and hard!
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #39 on: November 19, 2020, 01:04:18 AM »
In my limited experience cutting dry bur oak, and green ash (probably the two most difficult hardwoods to saw up here, because of the low moisture content) it takes a fresh blade to saw them straight, and the blade doesn't stay fresh long. I've been in them where I used a blade per log🤷🏽‍♂️
Too many irons in the fire

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #40 on: November 20, 2020, 06:24:57 AM »
T7x11/4x55 for me. Work well when I push out the set.
But, when I hit something like iron -rocks the tops of the teeth are gone.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #41 on: November 21, 2020, 03:42:19 PM »
Sawing red pine 6x6x16 with silver tip .042 turbo 7
Nice flat and true cuts as fast as it will cut.
I use the silvertips on logs 16" I buy them right at DW bands and like the flex life.
I don't use them for logs over 16"

 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #42 on: November 22, 2020, 09:46:56 AM »
Bruno,
I agree totally, I stopped using Double Hard bands this year because I like the nearly half price and extended flex life of the Silver Tips.  It may be they are the same alloy, I dont know, but in my opinion, the second hardening process makes the DH bands more prone to fatigue.  The Silver Tips have a hardened tip, but the band body is not hardened to the extent of a DH.  Even with my bigger wheels of the 70, I still break .055 DH bands too frequently for my liking.  Along with the fact that they also sometimes take out a band wheel belt or two, a high speed break can get expensive, maybe $80.  

My DH bands for my LT70Wide cost $42, my Silver Tips $23.  So I can sharpen a Silvertip one time and get to about $10 per band, which means Im at the Resharp/Buy New breakpoint with them with one sharpening.  

As far as I can tell, Silvertips perform virtually just as well in clean wood as the DH bands, with zero out of the box breaks, and at half the price.  Then, since I retire them early because I didnt pay that much to begin with, I dont get the fatigue break of a DH after several sharpenings.

Silver Tips do not like dirt, the DH bands are better in that aspect, so its important to make sure the debarker is tracking in the saw kerf.  

I was convinced to swap over after seeing, Customsawyer who runs a couple million bdft per year, using Silvertips.

YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it wont roll, its not a log; its still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, theyre burned, and you cant fix them.  Dont burn the cookies.

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #43 on: November 22, 2020, 11:29:49 AM »
I run what ever I can get the most bang for the buck. I just ordered some 1.75x.055 7/39 silver tips. We will see how they do. I was running the 1.75 body blade until I started having trouble with them. Worked with Kasco for several years running their 7/40 with great success. Now doing a little research to see if I can gain some. Don't know how it will turn out just yet but we will see.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #44 on: November 22, 2020, 11:31:21 AM »
Joe got the roll in? 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #45 on: November 22, 2020, 11:34:50 AM »
I ordered 2 rolls. Haven't heard anything about him getting it in yet. Which is fine. I still have over 30 new blades and over a 100 that need sharpened.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #46 on: November 22, 2020, 12:05:57 PM »
Don't you be hoarding all of it. Bands be like toilet paper pretty soon, can only buy two at a time.  :D
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #47 on: November 22, 2020, 02:47:58 PM »
Tried some 4 degree 1.25x.045 blades today in white oak. Kinda disappointed. Dont cut nearly as straight as the 7s Ive been using. Blades werent getting hot. I tried 2 blades in the same log, both cut waves. Put on a 7 degree blade , cut straight. Same log. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #48 on: November 22, 2020, 03:08:38 PM »
Tried some 4 degree 1.25x.045 blades today in white oak. Kinda disappointed. Dont cut nearly as straight as the 7s Ive been using. Blades werent getting hot. I tried 2 blades in the same log, both cut waves. Put on a 7 degree blade , cut straight. Same log.
 There's something wrong with your 4 blades, mine cut white oak dried out or green perfect until real dull.  Several different brands.   Steve
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #49 on: November 22, 2020, 03:54:10 PM »
Nearly 50% of the lumber I cut is white oak.  In green white oak either 4 or T7 cut fine.  In dry white oak 4 cut better for me. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #50 on: November 22, 2020, 04:10:56 PM »
Its puzzling to me because 4s worked good on my other mill. 
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #51 on: November 22, 2020, 04:30:48 PM »
I pay $16.75 with free shipping for the t 7 171" .042 
It saves me some money on bands.
It adds up over the year in savings.
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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #52 on: November 22, 2020, 09:02:36 PM »
Don't you be hoarding all of it. Bands be like toilet paper pretty soon, can only buy two at a time.  :D
You might want to try a different brand of toilet paper.  Sounds like the stuff you are using may be pretty rough on the bum if a sawblade reminds you of it....
YellowHammerisms:

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If it wont roll, its not a log; its still a piece of tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not pieces of trees.

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Re: 4 degree vs turbo 7
« Reply #53 on: November 22, 2020, 09:32:21 PM »
We are a rough bunch up this way YH.  Pine cones are considered a luxury reserved for guests.    :D 
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