Sawmill Shed Pole Building

[TimW]

30 foot wide.  My best friend, Mahindra, will help.

[TimW]

Y'all got me to thinking and I had an  epiphany.  Since I will be building the trusses on plywood, I can clear out the barn a little and build them there, with a roof, fan, and lights.  I wasn't gonna do it there, as it is just 30 feet deep with a ramp built into a foot of it at the door.  So I can set the plywood up and at tapered shims at the door.  That way, it won't get wet until finished and outside!!!!
Thanks Y'all, for getting my thinker, thinking!!!

[WV Sawmiller]

Tim,

    You keep using a word I am unfamiliar with. It is called "Plywood". 

   I thought you had a sawmill. Why not saw out a bunch of wide boards for your siding? I know I have seen some large pine logs you have sawed. I am sure some of them would have been happy to become 1X12s or 1X10s or such.

[doc henderson]

I saw bunks of tongue and groove ply at Lowes, and it looked awful.  defects in the stack 3 inches of compression just from the strapping and mostly broke up tongues.

[TimW]

Tim,

    You keep using a word I am unfamiliar with. It is called "Plywood".

  I thought you had a sawmill. Why not saw out a bunch of wide boards for your siding? I know I have seen some large pine logs you have sawed. I am sure some of them would have been happy to become 1X12s or 1X10s or suc

Howard,
  Thanks for chiming in.  Since trusses use plywood for gussets, I do have to buy that.  I did cut 1x6s for the center lower cord splice as these splices are in tension only.  I need to plane them down ASAP.

As the diagram shows tension and compression, the tension gussets get pulled in two directions.  SYP can be pulled apart perpendicular to the grain.  I think I said that right.

[TimW]

While mowing the grass, I was thinking.  Since I am using rough lumber, why would I want to plane the 1x6 center bottom cord splices?  I am thinking the glue will like rough over planed for better adhesion.
Thoughts?  
I was thinking planed, because the plywood is smooth.

[Magicman]

Yes, you will have a much stronger glue joint with smooth lumber.

[TimW]

Okay, so I will plane the 1x6 splices.  But the boards are already cut to 1.5".  Can't plane those.

[Old Greenhorn]

True, but you could sand the gusset areas to get the frass off it get the glue on better.

[Magicman]

You are saying "glue" but I assume that glue is construction adhesive which should fill the voids and maybe be more forgiving regarding roughness.  

[barbender]

Tim, there are actual engineered plans for glued/nailed plywood gusset trusses available from Iowa State University iirc. You can purchase and download the book of truss plans.

[beenthere]

TimW
Did you start this pole shed project with Brandi shown here with Doc Henderson ?

[TimW]

You are saying "glue" but I assume that glue is construction adhesive which should fill the voids and maybe be more forgiving regarding roughness. 

I said adhesive earlier, so I gather you are talking to Old Greenhorn.  I think this is the stuff I will use.  Already checked and know where in the store.  The big tubes.
Liquid Nails 10 oz. Heavy Duty Construction Adhesive LN-901 - The Home Depot

[TimW]

TimW
Did you start this pole shed project with Brandi shown here with Doc Henderson ?

I did.  We're kin!

[TimW]

Tim, there are actual engineered plans for glued/nailed plywood gusset trusses available from Iowa State University iirc. You can purchase and download the book of truss plans.

The 3 quotes I got for trusses have all the plans and notes attached.  I just have to size the gussets accordingly. 

[jpassardi]

Unless the material has a very rough surface off the mill with frass I wouldn't plane it. Roughness will help adhesive bond. Use construction adhesive - the big tubes are cheaper. Use loctite premium which is exterior rated and best tensile strength for the dollar at Lowes or HD.
Project Farm did a legit tensile test on construction adhesives and it is best bang for the buck.
When turning trusses over and moving I use a jib we made for my Cat backhoe loader bucket. Also good for placing trusses on the building if it's only 1 floor. This can help when flipping on the horses as well. My trusses are 27'.

[TimW]

Rough is better is what I was thinking. Based on we sanded before bonding composites, fiberglass and adding paint to an existing paint job.

As to best adhesive, Project farm didn't say Locktite. https://project-farm.com/pages/project-farm-favorites

But  Best Construction Adhesive: We Tested 10 to Find the Strongest says Locktite Premium is the bestest.

As to flipping the trusses.........and setting trusses.......

[barbender]

The preferred texture depends on the type of adhesive used. Many types of wood glues need a smooth surface. Construction adhesives aren't in that category though.

Not all construction adhesives are structural rated, and can have a tendency to creep under a load.

[Resonator]

I never used glue on my trusses, though it would add extra strength. I suppose where you're at wind force would be the biggest factor (wouldn't have snow load like here).  
My preference is to use plywood for any splice. I planned my trusses so the bottom chord joint landed in the center, where I already was putting a gusset, so that worked out for the splice also. 

[TimW]

We can have strong winds here.  Barn roof is designed and built to take up to 150mph winds.  Building this roof, I'm using the barn roof as an Aggie blueprint.  One factor in that is siding to prevent uplift.

[Andries]

Tim, how's the sawmill running after Yanmar spotted the WM wiring flaw?
Hope it's smooth and reliable now.

[TimW]

Haven't used it much with trying to get the roof built and taking a week and going to my cousin's funeral.  It's been a wet June and late May too.

But it is running like a new machine!

[TimW]

I did find a new project (one of too many) after the funeral.  See it here   https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=124769.300
Post 300

[TimW]

Talk about divine intervention.  I originally planned the sawmill building to be 40 foot wide, but something in the back of my mind said make it 30 feet wide, then add a 16 foot wide shed for the sawmill.  So I was planning on building on the building's slab.  But Y'all got me to thinking and..............

I was thinking the barn is 30 feet x 20 foot of concrete between the main poles.  Just measured and with the sliding doors on each end, I have 30 feet 10 inches under roof on concrete.  So I can close the doors with a truss in the plywood jig.  Never planned it that way, but it came out that way.

[Magicman]

Tim, edit your link above and remove the "here....."

This is what you want:    https://forestryforum.com/board/index.php?topic=124769.300