Big Norwood Problems

[RangeSawing]

Hey all, need to vent a little bit. Had a big order come up and started sawing this AM. Had a blade come off and hit the E-stop. Changed blade and looked up to see tons of smoke pouring from the engine. Reset e-stop and smoke stopped. Tried to start and motor has no spark. Tore it down to find both fusible links melted and coils have holes in them where link was contacting them. Will have to call Norwood and see what the deal is tommorow. It's wired as specified and has no more than 20 hours on it since new (6 months old). Connections are tight also. Thoughts? 

[terrifictimbersllc]

What engine/motor is it?

[RangeSawing]

23hp Briggs

[RAYAR]

Sounds like the E-stop has power to it and is being shorted to ground when activated. Something's not right there.

[RangeSawing]

I just went through and reread the directions from Norwood and am sure it's wired as required. But I think you are 100% correct. Maybe I should just get rid of the e-stop?

[RAYAR]

I just went through and reread the directions from Norwood and am sure it's wired as required. But I think you are 100% correct. Maybe I should just get rid of the e-stop?

Not if it's correctly wired for your set-up. Something's just not right in your set-up. Wish I could see the wiring diagram or schematic for it to see how things are wired up.

[RangeSawing]

I will try to grab some pics of the way it's set up, the manual from Norwood doesn't use the 23hp for the pics so maybe the lugs are different?!

[RAYAR]

I will try to grab some pics of the way it's set up, the manual from Norwood doesn't use the 23hp for the pics so maybe the lugs are different?!

That's possible. Are the engines the same make even, what you have and what's pictured in the manual? Pics should help in starting to determine what's going on.

[RangeSawing]

Looking closer there appears to be some differences in the manual supplied and the motor supplied. Will take pics of that tommorow if I get a chance. Here is the pics as I found today.

 

[puffie40]

It sort of looks like the same ignition coils B&S have used on their lawnmower engines since the beginning of time.  You might be able to use a couple of dead lawn mowers for parts 

[Patrick NC]

I've got the same mill with the same engine. I've used the e stop a few times just to test it. No problems yet. Don't know how many hours, but I've run it at least 8 or 10 hours every weekend since October. 

[Patrick NC]

FYI, I ordered and installed a set of roller guides from Norwood. If you haven't done this yet, I recommend it. Makes this mill a whole different animal. I kept the ceramic guides, but I don't plan to ever use them again. 

[RAYAR]

From what I can see here, it's a magneto type of ignition and the coil(s) has a wire that is hooked to an insulated terminal. From that terminal, there should be a wire from the key switch and also the E-stop button.  Then, another wire that goes to ground from the ignition switch and the E-stop. When the ignition switch is turned to off, or the E-stop is activated, it completes the circuit to ground. I expect that the ignition is properly hooked up since it has been operating properly. I suspect that the wire from the E-stop that should go to ground is hooked to power, which would do as you have experienced.

It's possible that the wire from the E-stop to ground is hooked up at the ignition switch and is hooked to the wrong terminal. It should be hooked to the wire that is going to ground.

[RangeSawing]

Patrick, could you take a pic of your wires where they tie to the motor? How much were the rollers?! I'm not a big fan of the ceramics and would like to convert over to rollers.
RAYAR I think you are making complete sense and I appreciate you taking the time, I'm going to investigate further this week when I get off work and will post more pics of how it is wired. Am I allowed to post a pic from the Norwood manual so all can see how they say to wire it?

[Patrick NC]

The rollers were $210 including shipping. They come with new mounting posts that attach to the same place the old guides are. The only thing they don't tell you is that on the movable guide you have to loosen the 4 bolts holding it to the head and shim it 1/8". (I used washers). I'll get a picture of the wiring this afternoon when I get home. 

[Patrick NC]

 

 Here's how the wires are attached. The black on the left and white on the right. There are a couple less wires on mine because I eliminated the safety switches on the front covers. 

[hamish]

Just disconnect the E-stop completely.  Or replace the switch, its contacts are done.

[papasawdust]

I have had my HD36 for 8 years and never had a problem with E switch. Norwood does have a problem with updating or letting customers now about design changes.  I can look at my manual, now it is 8 years old, and let you know how my mill is wired if you have not resolved your problem. As for those rollers, I bought the log lifts and the mounting holes did not align up.  I called and talked with technical and they told me there was a design change on the mill and the lifts are for newer mills.  Also told them there illustrations were inaccurate.  And the ceramic guides, I wanted to change to rollers but they insisted the ceramic were better than the rollers which were standard on the HD29.  HD36 is upgraded to ceramic.  I still think I am going to change to the rollers. Let know if you need any info on the wiring.

[RangeSawing]

Hey all, been busy with work. Finally got a day off and with talking to Norwood found that as we suspected the wiring was incorrect. I had them send me a picture of how it was to be done as the directions still didn't make sense. Replaced both coils and diode wiring and am up and running again.

[Peter Drouin]

 

[Patrick NC]

Glad you got back up and running. You are right about Norwood being a little slack when it comes to instructions and manuals. When I assembled the power feed last week the instructions were totally different than what I had. It seems that the instructions were for the old power feed and I have the upgraded wireless system. It wasn't hard to figure out, but doesn't make sense to not send updated instructions. The same thing when I got the roller guides. No instructions at all even though you are required to shim the adjustable blade guide arm 1/8" to make it work. It seems like a good mill, jut don't be afraid to call tech support if things don't look like the instructions. 

[Skip]

Norwood is a good mill, ??? but they make design changes and don't tell anybody . : :P

[RangeSawing]

Agreed, pretty frustrating to be honest. When I was getting my mill I spoke with two of their managers. They were by far some of the most helpful and knowledgeable people I have met. I cannot say the same for the experiences I have had when I didn't deal directly with these two. I'm nervous for my power feed install. I really don't want to fry a 3,000$ piece because of poor directions.

[Patrick NC]

Agreed, pretty frustrating to be honest. When I was getting my mill I spoke with two of their managers. They were by far some of the most helpful and knowledgeable people I have met. I cannot say the same for the experiences I have had when I didn't deal directly with these two. I'm nervous for my power feed install. I really don't want to fry a 3,000$ piece because of poor directions.

If you have the same power feed as I do it's pretty straightforward. Plug and play. The only thing that you can get backwards is the feed motor and head motor. Simple as switching plugs.