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Raker adjustment

Started by Tinkerer, February 16, 2021, 01:33:36 PM

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Tinkerer

Has anyone lowered their rakers below the manufacturers setting? I'm asking because I'm running 395xp and a 36" bar in an Alaskan mill and feel like it could cut faster.  I know the saw is able to do a lot more without bogging down. What I'm not sure of is the strength of a chain and the pressures it they with stand. Thanks guys!
Fed my 450 Rancher so well, it grew to a 395XP!

terrifictimbersllc

I dont usually use a raker gauge and when I do check usually my saws are below it so probably 25-35 thousandths lower somewhere in there. 

you'll get a lot of pro advice on this over in the Chainsaws board.  maybe admin will move this for you. 
DJ Hoover, Terrific Timbers LLC,  Mystic CT Woodmizer Million Board Foot Club member. 2019 LT70 Super Wide 55 Yanmar,  LogRite fetching arch, WM BMS250 sharpener/BMT250 setter.  2001 F350 7.3L PSD 6 spd manual ZF 4x4 Crew Cab Long Bed

Tom King

All the time.  I cut with a light hand though, so if someone pushes hard on the saw, it doesn't work the same way.  

I have a bunch of different raker gauges, but I don't use them on every tooth.  I decide what I want to try, use that gauge, and see how many strokes it takes. Then put that number of strokes on each tooth.

Tacotodd

Don't have more clearance than 25thou. That's going to give you an optimal tooth chip size. Especially if running an Alaskan. Crosscut with softwood, you can probably get away with 30. Don't go any shorter. If only becomes a hazard and you probably don't want it that way. BUT, if you must, 30 then 35 then 40 and so on. As SOON as it gets grabby, stop and file but don't touch the depth gauges. A quick swipe or two after every slab. As soon as it's back to where you think is optimal, measure. Keep that figure in mind for future reference.
Trying harder everyday.

sablatnic

I normally do, till the saw will sink through the tree without any pressing - that means that I will have 
to lift a bit in the large cuts. 

doc henderson

I love a fast cutting chain.  I have a stihl sharpener. and I rarely do the rakers, but if after I sharpen, it feels I have to work to get the saw to chew, I check the rakers.  if they are low enough, I recheck and sharpen the chain.  i one time got a little carried away.  not dangerous, but grabby.  was a good lesson, no harm done, but smoother is more enjoyable and prob safer and easier on the equipment.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Skeans1

What sprocket are you running on the saw? What chain? And what series of chain?

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