LT40 Rescue

Percy · February 27, 2021, 01:26:03 PM

What a find and what a cool lady to "lowball it forward ". I would have bought lottery tickets with the 700.00 she refused👍🤓.

donbj · February 27, 2021, 01:49:22 PM

Quote from: Jim_Rogers on February 27, 2021, 12:27:20 PM
The drive side bearing that he's talking about adding ATF to may not have a vent on top. If not you need to get a vent plug. What happened to me is mine (a 1994) did not have a vent plug, and when the oil gets hot from use it will not be able to expand and will push out through the seals. And you won't know or have enough oil in there and that will cause the bearing to wear out.
I installed a vent plug and I updated my bearing with a sight tube like the new mills have:

Below is mine

Here is a picture of the top fittings and tube connections

Good luck
Jim Rogers

Yes, this! I did the vent plug add as well only haven't did the sight tube modification. My bearings would seep oil when warmed up(94 model mill). Vent fixed that. I run 90W in mine as well. I only cut mainly in summer. These roller bearings imo are better run with heavier oil than atf.

Andries · February 27, 2021, 01:56:54 PM

Quote from: Brob1969 on February 27, 2021, 09:55:40 AMThe weep hole is definitely factory . . . once I heard fluid gurgling I noticed it.

Sheesh, I've never noticed that hole.
The learning process never ends.
I'm feeling like I'll just shut and read Pineywoods and MM's posts now, and learn more as you get it up and running.
Keep up the good work

Bandmill Bandit · February 27, 2021, 03:25:04 PM

Quote from: Magicman on February 26, 2021, 04:20:56 PM
Actually 1988 should be the 6th year: Wood-Mizer

So its probably older than I thought and still going strong. Im not sure if they had and electric option back then but he has 15HP 3PH motor on the mill.

Andries · February 27, 2021, 06:22:41 PM

@Bandmill Bandit, in reply #15 he talks about a carb kit and the photos show an old style Onan with the bumper guard in front of the grill.

CCCLLC · February 28, 2021, 08:17:22 AM

Jim Rogers, can you give some info on the vent plug fitting size (thread)? That is a great idea. Need me one. Replaced drive side bearing about two years back. Thanks

Brob1969 · February 28, 2021, 09:14:16 AM

This is why I REALLY appreciate this forum! I would not have known to keep an eye out for the drive side bearing, and I DEFINITELY wouldn't have known about the modification!

Thank you all so much! It is so helpful to have such an amazing resource of knowledge!

Jim_Rogers · February 28, 2021, 11:13:11 AM

Quote from: CCCLLC on February 28, 2021, 08:17:22 AM
Jim Rogers, can you give some info on the vent plug fitting size (thread)? That is a great idea. Need me one. Replaced drive side bearing about two years back. Thanks

What I did was take the top plug out, and took it with me to the hardware store so I could test it in the sample thread board, and find the right thread size and count. Then using that information, I selected out the fittings that matched and made up the sight gauge assembly. It's not too hard to do once you get the right fittings and such.
Jim Rogers
PS. Woodmizer sent me the vent plug after they realized that the oil was building up heat/pressure and pushing out through the bearing seals. you may have to get a vent plug from them.

CCCLLC · February 28, 2021, 12:34:59 PM

Thanks Jim

trimguy · February 28, 2021, 10:10:50 PM

WOW, congratulations, and welcome to the forum.

Bandmill Bandit · March 01, 2021, 11:47:22 AM

Quote from: Andries on February 27, 2021, 06:22:41 PM

@Bandmill Bandit, in reply #15 he talks about a carb kit and the photos show an old style Onan with the bumper guard in front of the grill.

Yes i saw that but I was refering to my friend that has an early (mid 80s) LT40 Hydraulic with a the 15HP 3 phase electric but I think he did that after he bought it cause his whole operation is 3 phase. I checked with him and he was over 20K hours when the meter quit abou 7 years ago.

Brob1969 · March 01, 2021, 08:49:59 PM

After a bit of soaking in PB, I took of the bandwheel covers. The drive wheel side and top channel were full of the stores of squirrels.
Everything looks good otherwise. The bearings feel good and it looks like there is almost no wear.

I replaced the ignition switch and battery today and got started on the electrical systems.

I replaced the belt on the gantry motor that raises and lowers the saw head and wire brushed the track on the mast smooth. The raise and lower function works well now. I started polishing on the horizontal track and after a bit of coaxing, got the gantry moving along the main rail. The forward/reverse switch is going to need some attention, it requires some fanagling to get it to go forward.

After some cleaning, I got the blade guide working quite well. Everything seems to be in order here.

I am awaiting the rebuild kit for the tensioner and one for the carburetor. I think I may be able to put a log on this sawmill before too long!

GAB · March 01, 2021, 09:11:20 PM

Quote from: Brob1969 on March 01, 2021, 08:49:59 PM

After a bit of soaking in PB, I took of the bandwheel covers. The drive wheel side and top channel were full of the stores of squirrels.
Everything looks good otherwise. The bearings feel good and it looks like there is almost no wear.

I replaced the ignition switch and battery today and got started on the electrical systems.

I replaced the belt on the gantry motor that raises and lowers the saw head and wire brushed the track on the mast smooth. The raise and lower function works well now. I started polishing on the horizontal track and after a bit of coaxing, got the gantry moving along the main rail. The forward/reverse switch is going to need some attention, it requires some fanagling to get it to go forward.

After some cleaning, I got the blade guide working quite well. Everything seems to be in order here.

I am awaiting the rebuild kit for the tensioner and one for the carburetor. I think I may be able to put a log on this sawmill before too long!

I'd be changing all the bearings associated with that shaft.
GAB

trapper · March 01, 2021, 10:25:55 PM

for those that know. the bearings in the above picture are like the ones in my 1987 lt30. what is the plug in the bearing housing for? on mine one plug is up about two oclock the one on the other bearing is down at five oclock.

beav · March 01, 2021, 10:41:30 PM

They are setscrews that retain the sealed bearings in the pillow blocks likely nothing wrong with them, they're hardly broken in

Stephen1 · March 01, 2021, 10:43:57 PM

Welcome to FF Brob, keep the pictures coming.

Brob1969 · March 02, 2021, 12:09:32 AM

All in all the bandwheels look in good condition. No play and everything turns smoothly.

donbj · March 02, 2021, 12:46:13 AM

Looking real good, what a find and blessings to the lady that sold it to you. Make darn sure your track rollers all turn and are in good shape. They are covered and easy to ignore. A fellow here bought one similar vintage to yours and two rollers were worn right through from sliding along the rail. You'll be sawing in no time it looks like!

Brob1969 · March 02, 2021, 01:55:43 PM

Yep Don, I have been reading the manual all the way through. Because of the fact that this machine has been sitting outside for over a decade, I wanted to be sure I got everything lubed and working properly. After pressure washing the first thing I did was basically empty a big can of PB Blaster on everything that moves, has a fitting, and every bolt and nut on the machine.
I've pretty much been going verbatim with the maintenance schedule and checking out the machine as I go.

I have everything moving now. I have encountered a couple issues that I'm working on, such as the seal kit for the hydraulic tensioner and the drum switch for the drive. I have parts coming from Wood-Mizer this week.

I am changing the oil in the 18 HP Briggs today. I am going to attempt a start later, but I know that I'll be rebuilding the carburetor. Upon taking out the air cleaner, a bunch of carpenter ants came clamoring out of the throat of the carb.

Andries · March 02, 2021, 07:05:45 PM

When you pick up the air filter, remember to pick up a pre-filter as well.
They pick up a lot of dust and extend the main filter life by a lot.

farmfromkansas · March 02, 2021, 09:35:22 PM

For that vent plug, can't you just drill a tiny hole in the one you have? Have done that for a hydraulic vent on a cylinder before.

Brob1969 · March 04, 2021, 09:38:26 AM

The seal kit for the tensioner arrived last night, and my new carburetor should be here later this afternoon. I'm going to try to get home soon enough today to get going on this. My hope is to test the mill out this weekend. Two big limbs recently came down from some old pecans on our property during a heavy rain storm; I'm thinking they'll be my first subjects.

The tech I spoke with at Wood-Mizer the other day gave me a couple of tips on the tensioner rebuild. I think I'll make a video of the process so that anyone else who is doing the rebuild can check it out.

Brob1969 · March 06, 2021, 11:51:32 AM

Yesterday I pulled the Intake and Carburetor from the Briggs and Stratton 18HP twin engine. Previously if you recall I had found a LOT of carpenter ants coming out of the carburetor when I removed the air cleaner.

Turns out, the ants had made their "forever home" inside the intake! The carburetor was rusty and had ant leavings throughout and the intake ports and head were full of ant larvae and dirt! I'm really glad I didn't attempt to crank the engine and suck all that trash into the cylinders!

I ended up using my shop vac and a piece of wire to get as much of the debris out of the head port as possible. After I got as much out as I could, I filled both intake chambers with SeaFoam. Luckily it seems both intake valves were in the closed position as the SeaFoam filled the chambers with none leaking into the cylinders. I ordered a gasket set and have left them soaking for now; I may try this afternoon to go ahead and tear into the heads. I plan to go ahead and lap the valve seats in and I'll clean and lube the cylinders and rings before I reassemble everything. The oil in the crankcase looked pretty good considering it's been more than a decade since this engine ran. I have already changed the oil and I poured a can of SeaFoam in the crankcase to soak for a bit as well. The engine is not locked, so I feel I'll be able to get it running without too much ado. Worst case scenario, I'm still well below my budget, so if I have to I can still swap in a 23HP Predator engine if necessary. I want to get the original engine going for now though.

donbj · March 06, 2021, 01:13:32 PM

Nice thread here! Very interesting. You are taking a very good approach to this in making sure things are good before turning the key. Hopefully the engine works out good. On the old chainsaws I get the first thing I do is spray engine storage spray into them to make sure they are lubed before cranking on them.

Bandmill Bandit · March 07, 2021, 11:07:27 PM

Get you self a gal or 2 of the Gunk carb soak cleaner. Disassemble the heads and intake & carb and drop it all in a pail for a day or 2. You'd be ammazed at how well that works. Even cleans off quite a bit of rust if it is there. If you have a hot plate heat it up to about 130°. does a great job that way.