Newby with another project

Vautour · May 03, 2022, 04:43:46 AM

Quote from: Vautour on May 01, 2022, 08:03:21 PM

Quote I have a over TDC lever on operator's side to engage the tensioner.

I'd be curious to see how that works if you can show a picture of it. ....Having trouble receiving pics from my phone to my PC... will post when the come in,.. nice work.

Vautour · May 03, 2022, 07:36:32 PM

Up is disengaged and down is engaged...i got to change the threaded rod part to pivot where it's attaching to the lever bracket.... and new paint.

Cornerstone · May 03, 2022, 10:34:05 PM

Quote from: Vautour on May 03, 2022, 07:36:32 PMUp is disengaged and down is engaged...

Simple enough! Thanks

Cornerstone · May 03, 2022, 11:54:51 PM

So the next project on the list toward completion is blade guards. Linn Lumber sells the premade set of them for a few hundred bucks plus shipping, and with the price of new metal I started looking for something that would suffice. I went through the free stuff on Craigslist hoping to find something close to 14 gauge to cut up and make them myself. I searched Marketplace also and wasted another hour. I figured I was headed to the local metal supplier when I walked out to feed the animals and right there in front of me was this water trough I haven't been using for over a year. How convenient!

A quick measurement and 2 minutes with the cutoff disc and I had a free set of blade guards!

I needed to create a mounting system and stiffen them up some, so some more surgery was in order. Being galvanized, I had to flap disc away the coating so the metal fumes wouldn't mess me up. It was then that I started to realized how thin the metal was and the whole project went south. With my Miller 175 set on it's lowest setting I was blowing holes all over the thing. I worked almost everyday for 2 months on this thing and took pride in making everything as square as I could, I'm not going to settle for sub par guards! The guards are covering all that hard work so they ought to look great as well as serve their purpose. I jumped in the truck and made the trip to a metal yard that sells used steel as well as new. I got out with a few clean 20"x60" 14 gauge sheets of cold rolled steel for only $35. Well worth the effort since a full sheet of the same stuff is almost $200. Now that I have the right materials I'm looking forward to tomorrows project.

Ljohnsaw · May 04, 2022, 12:59:08 AM

Make sure to leave enough room between the blade and guard. I had to install a piece of UHMW on the top, inside my guard. The blade would set up a harmonic and vibrate and hit my guard, dulling the blade. Also, make sure it is really easy to remove. My first iteration it was really, really hard to change the blade because my guard was not removable. I though the little bit of space I built into it was enough to change the blade.

My current guard is 3/4" plywood front (so it doesn't damage the blade if it hits) and thick plastic from a playground tube slide.

Cornerstone · May 04, 2022, 09:49:24 AM

Definitely making them removeable, John. Do you have a build thread on your timber frame cabin? I'd love to see it.

Crusarius · May 04, 2022, 10:23:34 AM

its even better if it is easy. I have one that I hinged and one that is removable. I like the hinged one 10 million!!!! times better.

Ljohnsaw · May 04, 2022, 11:02:32 AM

Quote from: Cornerstone on May 04, 2022, 09:49:24 AMDo you have a build thread on your timber frame cabin? I'd love to see it.

My Timber Frame Build Might want to just skip to the last page unless you have a few hours and/or are having trouble falling asleep.;)

Cornerstone · May 05, 2022, 06:33:18 PM

I've proven my theory yet again. Everything I think will take 1 day takes 2... at least it didn't cost twice as much as it often does. I'm glad I decided to go for the 14 gauge over the janky water trough idea. It looks way better and much more sturdy. I suppose I need to find a way to use the 2 halves of the water trough now, make it look intentional ya see. :

-I got it... screw a couple of 2x12's to the cut ends and call them planters, my wife will think I'm a genius.

The guard mount is just 3 pieces of angle welded together, then welded to the saw head. Pardon the rusty blade, with any luck it will be bright and shiny very soon.

The backside of the new blade guards has a bracket that slides into the frame to hold it in place.

Just before welding the guard mount in place.

I used a couple of Cleko fasteners to hold the guards in place. Probably be smart to keep a pair of Cleko pliers with the mill at all times.. maybe tape them to a string like they do the pens at the bank. lol

One more thing to add in regard to the guards, a stand off bolt to the front of the saw frame so the guard will maintain adequate distance in case something were to bump into it. That'll be another day.

fluidpowerpro · May 05, 2022, 07:28:29 PM

Those look really nice. You do fine work.

Crusarius · May 05, 2022, 08:18:44 PM

Use really strong magnets. they have a tendency to stay better than strings that will break from the weather.

Guards look really nice.

Cornerstone · May 05, 2022, 08:40:34 PM

Thanks guys. What wheel and tire size will be acceptable? I already have an axle from an old boat trailer that I saved, and will cut it down to the correct width. I'm pretty sure it has 5 lug hubs with a 4.5" bolt circle. I found some mounted tires on white steel wheels at the local farm and ranch store that are 4.80 x 12" for only $60. each. They look like they'd do the trick, but possibly on the small side. Smaller may be better, I don't know.

Brian

Crusarius · May 05, 2022, 08:43:25 PM

Smaller may be better. the tires I have are I think 16" wheels that were on the horse trailer that the axle came out of. I want to change to smaller tires because I have to raise the bed of the sawmill up quite a bit so I do not try to saw the top of the tire off

I have to have the tires off the ground to drop far enough to clear the carriage.

Cornerstone · May 07, 2022, 05:29:05 PM

I cut down a boat trailer axle to fit the saw mill track width. I'm thinking a removeable axle would be best as opposed to welding it directly to the frame. In this picture you can see a 2x2 1/4 wall tube that's between the spring hangers and the frame. My plan was to weld the hangers to the tubing and then bolt the tube to the frame with three 1/2" bolts on each side.

Not sure where to weld the front hanger... either to the leading edge of the 2x2 or underneath the 2x2 like the the one in the back.

I'll have just enough room to mount a small fender over the tire.

I picked up 6 of these jacks. How do y'all feel about mounting them like this on both ends of the saw bed?

Crusarius · May 07, 2022, 05:44:53 PM

ok, first. I like the axle idea. A thought I had for V2.5 was to make it so the axle could be installed at either end as well as the tongue. that way if you have a tight site you're trying to get into you can drive in, setup then do your job. On the way out you put the axle on the other end and tongue on the other one then you drive back out.

second. No way you have room for a small fender. the axle will move more than that. You will need at least 1 removable fender.

Third. don't put the jacks at the very end if you can avoid it. if you bring them in 3-4' from the end you will have less bed sag. I would weld them to the inside of the main channel in a way they can still be rotated up. And be very careful when welding them to make sure the handles still work or you will have to weld a nut on there and use a ratchet.

I forget how long your bed is but if it is 24' I would put a set of jacks in from the ends roughly 3' and one set in the center. Then you will never have to worry about sag or dropping stuff on the bed. plus it would make it real easy to remove the axle if you want to.

TroyC · May 07, 2022, 06:34:38 PM

I used side wind jacks instead of top wind. Agree that jacks should be inward and not all the way to the back. This is a 10' extension for the EZ40. The mill has the short fat tires like they put on pontoon boat trailers. More clearance and higher weight capacity. The EZ40 has a bolt-on axle carriage, 2 bolts per side hold the carriage to the frame.

Ljohnsaw · May 07, 2022, 08:59:55 PM

Quote from: Cornerstone on May 07, 2022, 05:29:05 PMNot sure where to weld the front hanger... either to the leading edge of the 2x2 or underneath the 2x2 like the the one in the back.

Maybe I'm reading it wrong, but, the shackle with the extra link is the back mount, not the front. You want the more rigid connection in the front to withstand the impact of pot holes, curbs and such. Just like the saw blade you pull through the wood, you pull your axle, not push it!

Ljohnsaw · May 07, 2022, 09:02:44 PM

Quote from: Crusarius on May 07, 2022, 05:44:53 PMI would weld them to the inside of the main channel in a way they can still be rotated up.

The only problem with that is the mill will be a little less stable side to side. My jacks are on the inside and I've made my whole mill track tip a bit at times between bumping it with my SkyTrak or flipping a cant. I've been thinking of moving them to the outside since they are bolted on. I'm stationary.

TroyC · May 07, 2022, 10:07:58 PM

Jacks outside by a few inches definitely add stability!

Cornerstone · May 08, 2022, 12:09:48 AM

Quote from: Crusarius on May 07, 2022, 05:44:53 PM
Third. don't put the jacks at the very end if you can avoid it. if you bring them in 3-4' from the end you will have less bed sag. I would weld them to the inside of the main channel in a way they can still be rotated up. And be very careful when welding them to make sure the handles still work or you will have to weld a nut on there and use a ratchet.

*After the springs are correctly installed the tire will sit at least 4 inches farther away from the saw head than it is in that pic. I think I will have room for a small fender, it'll be small but sufficient and easily removeable.
*Good point, probably smarter to put the jacks a couple feet from the ends... seems like it would distribute the load better on the frame. My track is 20 ft. long.

Cornerstone · May 08, 2022, 12:14:07 AM

Quote from: TroyC on May 07, 2022, 06:34:38 PM
The mill has the short fat tires like they put on pontoon boat trailers. More clearance and higher weight capacity.

Those tires would be ideal for what I'd need I think. I didn't see that type while I was out on the hunt to see what was available locally.

Cornerstone · May 08, 2022, 12:16:46 AM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on May 07, 2022, 08:59:55 PMMaybe I'm reading it wrong, but, the shackle with the extra link is the back mount, not the front. You want the more rigid connection in the front to withstand the impact of pot holes, curbs and such. Just like the saw blade you pull through the wood, you pull your axle, not push it!

Thanks for catching that! I hope I would have before I welded it up. lol Ya saved this newby from another headache again!

Cornerstone · May 08, 2022, 12:23:32 AM

Quote from: ljohnsaw on May 07, 2022, 09:02:44 PMThe only problem with that is the mill will be a little less stable side to side. My jacks are on the inside and I've made my whole mill track tip a bit at times between bumping it with my SkyTrak or flipping a cant. I've been thinking of moving them to the outside since they are bolted on. I'm stationary.

Quote from: TroyC on May 07, 2022, 10:07:58 PM
Jacks outside by a few inches definitely add stability!

I'm convinced on this too. I'm gonna mount the 6 jacks as far outboard as the wheels are. I have been known to get a little loosey goosey with the back hoe and skid steer, I'll need all the stability I can get in case I bump into the thing. I would hate knocking the saw off the track.

Cornerstone · May 08, 2022, 12:41:04 AM

I'm also curious where to mount the axle. I was thinking having the wheels 75% toward the rear, so with my 20 ft. track set the axle at 15 ft. from the front. When I tow it to a new location I would think the carriage should be locked down just in front of the axle, maybe close to the halfway (10 ft. from the front). Any opinion or warnings to share on this?

Picture of the dinky wheels. lol

Ljohnsaw · May 08, 2022, 01:01:56 AM

If you have other trailers, make note of which are easy to back up and which aren't. The length from the hitch to the axle is what you want to match with the good trailer. Then you need to put 15% of the trailer total weight on the hitch. You can do that by where you park the head. If too light, you will get into very dangerous fishtailing at highway speeds. Too heavy and you're being hard on your tow vehicle.

If you don't have any other trailers to compare with, the hitch-axle length should probably be close to or longer than the tow vehicle wheel base. When backing up, if too short you will jackknife easily, too long and it will be difficult to turn sharp.