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Started by KDEC19, April 24, 2005, 09:34:10 PM

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beenthere

customsaywer
A bit puzzling to me what you are saying about 'dry' wood in log form. I don't think the wood in log form can get below the moisture content where it will 'swell' from running water on the blade (that moisture content would be at or below 30% ).
Sounds like there needs to be more set in the blades you are using, or different hook angle used.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

Kirk_Allen

Beenthere I think what he is talking about is the Sawdust swelling from the water, not the wood in the log.

beenthere

I don't think wet sawdust will swell either. It would be above that 30% moisture content as well.
I think there is something, other than wetted wood or sawdust swelling, causing the problem.
south central Wisconsin
It may be that my sole purpose in life is simply to serve as a warning to others

gmmills

 Hickory is tough to saw. It takes a very sharp blade to saw well. Your blade will dull alot sooner than if you were cutting Oak. :(  Your tension issues are caused by the blade heating up from friction.  Is there excessive and or packed sawdust left on the board and cant? If there is, too much set and the sawdust is spilling out of the gullet. This causes the sawdust to stay in the cut and rub against the body of the blade heating it up. If there is very little sawdust left on board and cant you are probably under set. A blade that is underset heats up from the lack of clearance between the blade body and the wood itself. If you are trying to push a dull blade it will wave. The blade waving will aslo cause the blade to heat up and lose tension.

     I would try WM 4 deg blade profile. This profile works well on hard to saw species. I would say your problem is definitely a blade issue.
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

Kirk_Allen

I agree it sounds like a blade issue.  If he is using the 1 1/4 - 10 degree I woul bet money on that being the prolblem. 

Beenthere, Since his logs are fresh cut I agree, swelling sawdust is not the issue, however I know when cuttng WRC telephone poles you must use very LITTLE lube or water.  WRC sawdust that is dry will swell and cause heat problems.  Been-there-Done That ;D

Kirk_Allen

I want to retract my bet!

You said you lowered you blade guide 1/8" and things got a little better.  You should have 1/4" of deflection so it may be that you still need to lower you blade guides.  That will make a huge difference.

Another thought came to me last night but not sure if it may be the problem.  If your mill is new I assume that beast was set up to run 1 1/2 blades.  If your using the 1 1/4 blades is it possible that the drive wheels are aligned for the 1 1/2 blade and not the 1 1/4 blade.  Is it possible that your up-set teeth are hitting the drive and idle wheel causing the set to get knocked down, thus less set on one side, which will cause waves.

Just some more ideas.  Not my mill but this one is really got me baffled.  I'm dying to figure out what the problem is. Didn't get any sleep last night just thinking of all the possibilities. 



Gary_C

Recheck your drive belt tension. Those drive belts stretch a lot at first and you will have to readjust frequently.  Also check to make sure your blade pulley belts are OK and there is no buildup under them.

Try running the lube at max flow and see if that helps.
Never take life seriously. Nobody gets out alive anyway.

arj

I think most of the problem is Hickory. The first time I tried to cut some it was so wavy I was ashamed to say I cut it, and said never again. I talked with Janet Woodmizers blade lady at a show, she said next time I cut hickory to call and she`d send me some blades to try. Last year I got some Hickory logs to cut for a customer so I called. She even remembered our talk and sent me some 9 & 4 degee blades. The 9s cut good 4s  very good the only problem is the cambium layer that stick to the gulet of the blade worse than pine sap I had to try to brush it off with a wire brush every couple of passes. It did`nt help the blade life at all I got maybe 300 ft per blade. Next time I do hickory I will adjust the price because of useing so many more blades.
                                                                          arj

gmmills

KDEC19,

       Is your mill set up with 1 1/4" blade gude rollers? Are you using 1 1/2" blades or 1 1/4"? 
Custom sawing full-time since 2000. 
WM LT70D62 Remote with Accuset
Sawing since 1995

KDEC19

Well we got the mill up and cutting again.  The guys at the hanibel ny office figured this one out.  The tech came out and removed the extrs 1/8 of deflection.  We put on new blade.  Alighned the mill.  Made some cuts.  After two cut the blade was dirty.  This is some goey wood. Came to the conclusion full lubemizer in continuous.  We also mixed it extra thick with pine sal.  We also but in a thicker blade .055  9 degree 1 1/4.  Cuts great.  I learned that a mizer blade needs to be clean clean clean to cut correctly.  The waves in the oak were from me going to fast.  This big motor just keeps going no lug like the kohler.  So basically thicker blade lots of lube and really slow through the hickory with blade clean prior to next cut.  I probably would not be able to cut this hickory with the gravity water system.  Thank woodmizer for the great lubmizer system.  Cleans the blade in a snap.  As I have said in other posts woodmizer has the best support ever.  They are always a phone call away.  Also they are very tacful not to call me stupid greenhorn.  Thanks for all the help everyone.  I have put five hours on it today and it is sawing fine. Well time to go make some more dust.  See ya Keith D
gonna do it again......

Bibbyman

Those hickorys.....   Sometimes they saw just as nice as anything else.   I think I'd rather saw one that's dried a few months.

Great you got it all going.!!  8)
Wood-Mizer LT40HDE25 Super 25hp 3ph with Command Control and Accuset.
Sawing since '94

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