Watcha Makin'?

[samandothers]

Many times I would carry a screw, bolt or nut to Lowes and use their size finding tool.  They have a device on a support leg of the shelves in hardware that have bolt shafts and like T nuts that you can test your bolt or nut fit in to determine size.  It is kinda like the device Doc showed except mounted in the store.  I has been helpful many times as they have SAE and metric.

[aigheadish]

Tom, I don't think I was off by double, but I did notice that whatever the measurement was that I made it wasn't exactly the fraction as you mentioned in your first reply to my question. After reading elsewhere that that could happen I was confident (at the time) that I was close enough to whatever it was I thought I had. Normally, I make a note of the sizes of stuff, but I think with this I may have written a note on my bench, not my phone, so I don't know what that is just yet. 

Admins- should we make a different thread of "how to determine screw size" since I've clogged this one up? 

ljohnsaw- I saw that rack of hardware on one of your other posts and I love it. I haven't quite gotten to removing all the screws on stuff I'm getting rid of but I've been close. I've got a couple fire piles in the back yard that if I ran a magnet over them I could probably find about a thousand screws or nails or bolts or whatever... One day I'll do that but I need to light them up another good time. 

[aigheadish]

Looks like it is 3/16ths. I have 10-24 screws but the pitch is 32. I don't have 10-32...



 



 

[Old Greenhorn]

YUP! 3/16 on the snot. 10-32 is a very common machine screw, but the consumer manufacturers seem to prefer 10-24. My shop is the opposite, I have tons of 10-32 in all shapes, sizes, and colors, but 10-24 presents an issue and I have to go buy them. :D

[aigheadish]

Cool, I didn't find my notes on my bench to determine if I had it right the first time. I'm guessing that I was just guessing that the 8-32 was going to be correct. It wasn't and now I know. Oh well, can't have too many screws, right? 

[TW]

This is what i worked on most of the summer. Some log repairs on a theshing barn which I would guess is around 200 years old.

 

Finished but not yet delivered. An exact copy of a 1940-ies panel door

 

This is what I am working on at the moment. Preparing to shift the keel and the garboards (lowermost plank) and the stem knee of a 19 foot boat for a customer

 
It is strange what life throws in my way.... all sort of things.

[Hilltop366]

Nice to have some variety.

[Andries]

Such beautiful lines on that boat.
Is the wood pine or some kind of hardwood?

[TW]

The boat is built from spruce throughout. Very good for a light flexible hull.

I like the hull shape so much that I plan to take off a full set of moulds from the boat before delivering it back to the owner. Just in case someone wants a nice little double ender it may be handy to have moulds taken off a good one. It was built more or less by eye as was common practise at the time so there have never been any drawings. Judging by what I know about boatbuilders in Österhankmo at the time I suspect that Joel Sundström may have been the builder/designer.

[tule peak timber]

An alder mantle finishing out today.

 

 

 

[doc henderson]

air dried or finished in the kiln?  I have one at about 10% and am thinking of just a few days in a hot box ending at 160°
very nice!

[tule peak timber]

Thanks Doc. An old log that we ran at 159 degrees for a week and then dimensioned. The cracks really opened up and the bugs baked. I have a real problem out here with PP beetles, so EVERYTHING gets cooked before it leaves the property. The foam distortion I had from a seed starting hot box was because the heating pad was laying against the foam bottom.
  Did you notice all of the worm tracks on the mantle face? I'm starting a museum bench next week that is more worm than wood 

[doc henderson]

i was thinking of a key (started a new thread) to hold the end cracks where they are.  I have the hammer and plastic deal but I assume this is too dry to use that.  it is walnut.  i may just clamp or glue and screw something a crossed it.  i have 6 inches of trim.  pic to follow.

[doc henderson]

 

 


 

 

 

[doc henderson]

it has been airdrying a year and a half.  walnut.  you can see the pith.  then ends can be trimmed back.  will likely also put a bowtie or key of some sort.  

[doc henderson]

I am a little surprised that in CA you are not required to relocate the worms.  that can be our little secret.  we found one little worn in this. so the reason for the temp treatment, and to get to a point that it does not move.  it has end cracks.  i sent it with a friend (not a wood worker) for his home.  it has a little twist.  will cook and make it right.

[doc henderson]

you use a heating pad.  do you have a pic of your hot box?  what do you think of a 220 v dryer heat element?

[tule peak timber]

It looks to me like that crack will really open up given the size of the wood, drying time, and pith on center. I love making mantles with the pith running right through the face as drying produces a raised/distorted 3-d effect adding to the looks. With as much sapwood in your pic, here, there would be enough powder from PP beetles to compete with Johnson&Johnson !
 When your crack opens up, maybe polish out, open, with dentil tools before finishing.
 I don't have any hot box pics as I pin everything together with pencils and break down flat again into foam boards for storage as soon as the event is over. The heat pad box is for garden seed starts, while I use a small 110vac coil heater for wood cooking. A 220vac heater will come in larger wattages, and you can even make your own with nichrome wire as big as you want. Back in the 70's I built some huge hot boxes to cure listening devices for a certain government group :
 As far as rehoming the worms -most go straight to the turkey pen

[aigheadish]

Nevermind the below, I've found another post discussing this.

I've read about that in other places but I'd like to get a simple understanding of these hot boxes...

Is it just foam insulation boards configured into a box big enough for the wood you want to bake and a heating element (perhaps a fan)? Is the heating element suspended in mid air or...? I know the temps needed aren't too drastic but I assume you have to get the elements pretty hot, hot enough to melt the foam?

[samandothers]

TW, love the pictures of the barn and boat work.  Both are great looking projects.

Tule Peak, My first thought was I want to put a critter in that knot hole peeking out.  My dad would take some cross sections of a black walnut shell and put little craft eyes in the kernel holes and then glue the nut in a knot hole of a small piece of wood from the woods.  It kind of looked like an owl peeking out. 

[aigheadish]

10-32 screws came in, they are long but will work for my router base!

[tule peak timber]

TW, love the pictures of the barn and boat work.  Both are great looking projects.

Tule Peak, My first thought was I want to put a critter in that knot hole peeking out.  My dad would take some cross sections of a black walnut shell and put little craft eyes in the kernel holes and then glue the nut in a knot hole of a small piece of wood from the woods.  It kind of looked like an owl peeking out.

 

[tule peak timber]

An oak cube for an art museum auction benefit. Rough looking but silky smooth. Routing for glass on a pair of walnut entry doors.

 

[Larry]

Time to start cranking out Christmas ornaments.












Haven't got any complete yet, but the pipeline is starting to fill.  Once I get my basic quota done I'll start on some fancy ones.

[tule peak timber]

Someone will be very lucky to have one of your keepsakes. Have a very merry Merry Larry.