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Watcha Makin'?

Started by Old Greenhorn, May 20, 2022, 07:58:21 PM

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bigblockyeti

That looks good!  Did it have to be sanded to 40000 grit to maintain clarity for subsequent pours?

doc henderson

no.  we went to 220 before the next pour.  @tule peak timber taught me to do thinner layer of table top epoxy and sand between.  the key is to not have swirls in the wood that will show through.  any scratches in the top help to bond the next coat, and they disappear.  These were done in 2 inch pours with casting epoxy for the void.  Now Dallas understands all the steps.  He thought it would be quick and easy.  these are rustic table and will fall somewhere between thrown together, and mid west rustic.  Dallas is very pleased and amazed with how they look.  He did keep asking if the sanding was good enough.  That was to get the raised area all flash for the top.  I will do more thin layers with sanding between.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

the first 2 inch pour was mixed with a drill and lots of air entrained that did not come out.  It sort of creates an translucent shelf.  this would help diffuse the led light if we put that in.  I think some up lighting of bear claws would be unique.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

tule peak timber

Doc , although we use a lot of epoxy, most of it is in the wood or ground away during the finish process. Pics of some tops that are getting prepped this morning after two thin coats of epoxy. A soft silicone spreader is handy to get even thin coats on that are correctible for flaws like bubbles, suck outs, etc in-between coats, prior to a final finish.

 

 
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

doc henderson

glad you are chiming in.  do you do a final finish with poly for UV protection, or the hard wax oil.  Dallas likes the gloss finish.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

the pics are of the still wet surface, and was still leveling.  I have used plastic spreader also that seem to work ok.  the yellow autobody ones, or a wider one for large surfaces.  still learning,  Thanks for all the experience sharing Tule!
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

tule peak timber

These tops will get shot with Awlcraft acrylic because it can be polished. Yes on the UV protection!
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

Old Greenhorn

Doc, I never power mix epoxy because of bubbles. Also, the instructions for the epoxy I use says "Mix by hand only, do not use a power mixer." ;D

 I am surprised neither of you guys mentioned using a torch. I use as a light wipe across the top after pouring to let the bubbles out, then watch it for about 1/2 hour off and on, for any new bubbles. For thick pours (which I rarely do) you can torch it by layers as you go. I also sand with 220 between coats.
 I haven't tried that Awlcraft yet, they sure are proud of that stuff.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

doc henderson

we "release" bubbles with a professional heat gun.  you have to stay back with the air flow as to not move the epoxy around, esp. after it starts to set.  I read the directions but on the bottom pour did not care so much.  neat effect, or at least that is  my story and I am sticking with it.  :D I will sand and repour a few more times.

I need to get an old lab mixer/stirrer with the magnet in the bottom.  I have quart cups I bought a case of 100 of and they have marks for all the different ratios.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Old Greenhorn

I used to have two of those guns, but I guess my son needed them more than I did. ;D The torch is really quick and heating also allows the epoxy to flow smoother if it is setting too quick.

 Couple years back now, the WOC told me to always mix by weight and I have been dong that ever since.
Tom Lindtveit, Woodsman Forest Products
Oscar 328 Band Mill, Husky 350, 450, 562, & 372 (Clone), Mule 3010, and too many hand tools. :) Retired and trying to make a living to stay that way. NYLT Certified.
OK, maybe I'm the woodcutter now.
I work with wood, There is a rumor I might be a woodworker.

doc henderson

I have the trigger mapp gas torch and have used it as well.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

JRWoodchuck

What is the best way to cut/join a mitered counter corner? 
Home built bandsaw mill still trying find the owners manual!

DonW

I would make a template with some decent birch plywood using that as a pattern to cut the counter top.
Hjartum yxa, nothing less than breitbeil/bandhacke combo.

Tom K

Quote from: JRWoodchuck on February 15, 2023, 11:42:15 AM
What is the best way to cut/join a mitered counter corner?
With a circular saw, laminate face down. Belt sander to fine tune.

doc henderson

If it is vey wide, you can kerf it.  that is using a straight edge and running between the two halves of the miter with a circular saw.  any slight deviation may match the other half in theory.  the two side have to be held in place, but not clamped/pulled together, as this will pinch the blade as you finish.



 

 

 

 

 

Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

doc henderson

these were book matched spalted sycamore.  with the twisting they went form 2 inches to just over an inch after flattening.  I made them for my cousin, and used penetrating (thin viscosity) epoxy.  this is used to stabilize punky wood.  Mike joked I must of use $600.00 of epoxy, I just smiled, but he was not too far off.  the book match was perfect off the mill, but off when finished due to the twist that I had to saw/plane out.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

Walnut Beast

Nice 👍. Did you just flatten with the mill ?

doc henderson

Yes.  after they were dry, I put them back on and wedged the high opposite corners to take an equal amount off the high sides, so it was overall the least amount removed,  then sanded.  I do not think they fit my planer at 20 inch, but did go through the sander at 24 inches.  they got the stabilizing and rot filling epoxy.  the edges had the cracks from the log, and that got filled with epoxy mixed with sawdust from the slabs, and then streaked with a brush to mimic the live edge but further stabilize it.  Thanks again  @tule peak timber
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

dougtrr2

To clamp the two pieces together Rockler sells this.


tule peak timber

Doc your Sycamore top looks terrific. 8)We spent a lot of time developing the knife edge fit and spline to esure allingnment at the installation site no matter what the underlayment situation is (hopefully flat !).

 

 
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

doc henderson

We had the issue of it floating in the air except for the equivalent of a 2 x 4 top.  I like the spline  you can see I did biscuits.  do you put a slight 1° back angle to make sure the top fits tight?  We did that on trim the forms a miter to be sure the visible line were tight.  still need to go back and do a full top application to go across the joint.
Timber king 2000, 277c track loader, PJ 32 foot gooseneck, 1976 F700 state dump truck, JD 850 tractor.  2007 Chevy 3500HD dually, home built log splitter 18 horse 28 gpm with 5 inch cylinder and 32 inch split range with conveyor powered by a 12 volt tarp motor

tule peak timber

Yes, a hand lapped slight back bevel. The spline is also a very tight fit.
  Meanwhile back at SpaceX.... :o

 
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

tule peak timber

Zapping the space project with a ray gun

 
persistence personified - never let up , never let down

Walnut Beast

Make sure you clean that ray gun out or it's going to be the dead ray gun 😂. 

Nice shirt!

thecfarm

That would make a fine-looking window with stain glass.
Model 6020-20hp Manual Thomas bandsaw,TC40A 4wd 40 hp New Holland tractor, 450 Norse Winch, Heatmor 400 OWB,YCC 1978-79

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