Hudson 330Pro Setup

[etd66ss]

Trying to get the hang of this log scale. Trying to cut 2X lumber using the 6/4 scale.

Does the scale not account for the kerf?



 


 


 


 

[fluidpowerpro]

The scale accounts for kerf, but nothing additional for shrinkage after it dries. 

[etd66ss]

The scale accounts for kerf, but nothing additional for shrinkage after it dries.

Then I must be doing something wrong. I set the indicator and scale up so the first 6/4 gradation mark while the tooth set pointing downwards was excatly 1.5 " from the track bunks.

I cranked up three 6/4 gradations expecting the height from the bunks to be 1.5" x 4 + (kerf x 3).
I cut my cant and it was exactly 6" high. There was no accounting for kerf. So instead of getting four 2×6's I got three that were 1.5" thick as I had to manually measure out each down at the blade with a tape measure. The last board was only 1.25" thick...

My log loading setup works good at least:

[fluidpowerpro]

No....6/4 is exactly that, 6/4 per graduation....only move it one graduation.

[fluidpowerpro]

Also, quite often the last board can be off because of tension in the log. The last board may want to no longer sit flat on the bunks. You could try cutting half way down through the log, rotate 180* and then finish. That might help, but not always....

[etd66ss]

No....6/4 is exactly that, 6/4 per graduation....only move it one graduation.

I guess I don't follow. If the scale included the kerf, then that means the distance between every 6/4 gradation adds a kerf. You crank multiple 6/4 gradations you're adding multiple kerf's.

[Old Greenhorn]

Are you checking your thickness along the full length of the boards, or just at one end? You want to look at the full length to get an accurate picture of what is happening.

You have a cable lift on that machine, which has slop/backlash in it. You are probably already doing this, given your background but... When you start at the top and drop down, it is very important to drop past your target mark then crank back up to the mark each cut. This loads the head properly and evenly. If you just drop from mark to mark, the results will make you crazy and give your poor results.

As FPP said, you must keep an eye on that cant as you mill to make sure no stress is showing up, it sneaks up gradual. Look all the way down that log at each bunk contact point for gaps or other weird stuff. Cants will bend up and down as you relieve the stress through the log. You don't want to end up with this:



 

That Hemlock log was plain sawed top to bottom for 4/4 single live edge siding. There was no issue with the head control and EVERY board was a different thickness. The cant was bending up and down as the stress loads changed.

BTW, if you are cutting 2X material, I would cut it 8/4 to allow for shrinkage. In EWP, when I cut 1x10's green and let them dry they are very quickly coming in at 7/8 x 9-1/2 within a couple of months.

[etd66ss]

Are you checking your thickness along the full length of the boards, or just at one end? You want to look at the full length to get an accurate picture of what is happening.

You have a cable lift on that machine, which has slop/backlash in it. You are probably already doing this, given your background but... When you start at the top and drop down, it is very important to drop past your target mark then crank back up to the mark each cut. This loads the head properly and evenly. If you just drop from mark to mark, the results will make you crazy and give your poor results.

As FPP said, you must keep an eye on that cant as you mill to make sure no stress is showing up, it sneaks up gradual. Look all the way down that log at each bunk contact point for gaps or other weird stuff. Cants will bend up and down as you relieve the stress through the log. You don't want to end up with this:



 

That Hemlock log was plain sawed top to bottom for 4/4 single live edge siding. There was no issue with the head control and EVERY board was a different thickness. The cant was bending up and down as the stress loads changed.

BTW, if you are cutting 2X material, I would cut it 8/4 to allow for shrinkage. In EWP, when I cut 1x10's green and let them dry they are very quickly coming in at 7/8 x 9-1/2 within a couple of months.

Yeah, I have been doing the lowering then cranking back up tp tension the cable.
The manual for my mill says the log scale includes the kerf, but not the 1" ruler scale, which makes sense.
I have checked boards a few places over the length and I am getting consistent thickness. I am milling primarily Norway Spruce, which cuts very easily. Though I did throw on a much denser an knotted Scotts Pine, and so far no wavy cuts.
Everything seems to be working fine, except the log scale. The manual states it includes the kerf but that's not what I am seeing in practice as I measure how far the actual blade travels. Unless the cable lift mechanism is just very inaccurate. I whish Hudson used a lift screw like the Woodland Mills machines.
I can use a set of calipers to actually measure the kerf, but, for a 1-1/4" 10 deg blade, what would be standard? Around .070"?

[Old Greenhorn]

I just figure 1/8" kerf on everything. It may be right or wrong but it works for the work I do. Wood shrinks and requires planeing anyway for nice work, so I need material. For framing stuff it's a full size 8/4 and mostly I am working on the L%50 with Accuset which has the kerf built in an d can be set at anything. I find it's more important to be consistent than anything else.
 On My HudSon I use a magnetic scale purchased from WoodMizer for their smaller manual mills. I like that because I just position it on my first cut at the increment I want and it works fairly well, good enough for me anyway.

[fluidpowerpro]

These are some tools I made for marking the end of the log to whatever thickness I want. The holes are drilled to include extra for drying.
You lay it over the edge and then use a sharpie to make marks through the dots. They are easy to make. Just a bent strip of thin aluminum with holes drilled thru. I put a little chamfer on each hole so the tip of the sharpie fits better.
It's not the most efficient, but it works.

 

[etd66ss]

I just figure 1/8" kerf on everything. It may be right or wrong but it works for the work I do. Wood shrinks and requires planeing anyway for nice work, so I need material. For framing stuff it's a full size 8/4 and mostly I am working on the L%50 with Accuset which has the kerf built in an d can be set at anything. I find it's more important to be consistent than anything else.
On My HudSon I use a magnetic scale purchased from WoodMizer for their smaller manual mills. I like that because I just position it on my first cut at the increment I want and it works fairly well, good enough for me anyway.

I'm going to look into that magnetic scale, thanks.

[Nebraska]

Vallee sawmills in Canada makes a nice magnetic scale as well.  I use one on my timberking.

  best picture of it I had in my gallery.  3/4 to 16/4 , plus the ruler.

[fluidpowerpro]

Does the Vallee scale just have an allowance for kerf, or does it also add for shrinkage.

[etd66ss]

Needed a place to air dry stickered lumber as my kiln is not done yet.



 

[beenthere]

Looks to be a wide pile. But may be deceiving too. 
About max of 4' wide for air drying, if indeed in NY. In the south with SYP, get by with wider piles. 

[etd66ss]

Looks to be a wide pile. But may be deceiving too.
About max of 4' wide for air drying, if indeed in NY. In the south with SYP, get by with wider piles.

I stack them 3 ft wide, next to one another with about a 1 ft gap.  Probably not ideal, but I dry mostly spruce, seems to work.