Just bought a 562XP

[Spike60]

John, nothing missing on that saw, that's how they are. Hasn't been a problem at all, because we rarely sell those pumps. Early 562 oil pumps did not have bushings where the mounting bolts go, and they would sometimes get loose and that would take out the oil pump. That was corrected some years ago.

Tom, the X-cut .325 suffers from not being "full chisel" which means that it's no good and nobody is allowed to talk about it on these sites. We may even get banned for doing so. Similar to the Oregon 95TXL or whatever they call it. Narrow kerf, semi chisel that in addition to being pretty quick is also pretty forgiving. Holds an edge and quick to file back with just a few strokes when necessary.

Have not seen whatever saw Bill picked up, but if he doesn't stop in and get that very last 395 I set aside for him that might be a saw that he never sees. (kidding)

Have plenty of 350 family stuff laying around. Come up and grab whatever you want. Bottom ends don't go on those things very often. Does it have the plastic intake clamp? Not a big deal to plug in the 562 just to look at the numbers. Just let me know when your coming.   

[Old Greenhorn]

Well Bob, if that X-cut .325 is no good, I will take that all day long.  I had been square filing that LPX chain and had great results, but tired of the square filing. It seemed to put a pretty good load on the saw too because it took a really good chip. But if we are not permitted to discuss such things in mixed company, I understand and will cease.
 I nearly came in today, but the mill issues had me distracted and then I realized I had run the tank in my truck so low, I couldn't make a trip out and back safely, so I went to town, got gas and did other errands. Looks like I won't have time to make it out before Monday or Tuesday now. As a self employed retired guy, I have two bosses (I don't count) and they are both cracking the whip.
 Bill got that saw at Boonville and when we were carrying it back to the trailer he said "Maybe I should take this for Bob to look over and check it out. Might need a little tuneup" I thought that was a capitol idea. It's a man's saw for sure. I ain't gonna throw it in my truck, that will be his pleasure, but I need to get a photo and that should do for now. I know will slobber at the opportunity to get into it. I will remind him about that 395, he never has enough of those. What with running them over, straight gassing and whatnot.

 As for that 350, I should put the head back together and let you see what it feels like. I know you have already diagnosed this one and pronounced it dead. But I can put some time and material in it just for fun. Heck I might even put a .325 x-cut on it.  (assuming I can actually fix it.) I am thinking it is a good saw to leave at the mill so I don't need to shuttle one everyday or a beater in the truck box I can forget about until I need it. Those are good little saws.

[barbender]

That 95vp or whatever the Oregon narrow kerf chain was called years back was confusing. It always fooled me into thinking it cut excellent and was easy to keep sharp, until others would tell me that it was "safety chain" and didn't cut worth a darn😁
 
 I did have a penchant for blowing the non-rebuildable tips out of those Oregon "micro-lite" bars though, sometimes my chain would last longer than the bar, that was frustrating!

[Guydreads]

Definitely rebuild that 350, my favorite saw to use is my 2150 (same saw). Power to weight is great, sturdy. With a slightly   modified muffler she runs really well. Actually all I did was buy a china muffler for like 10 bucks  and it had a much larger exhaust port. I rebuilt the bottom end with China too…… really regretting that now. But, I was slightly more inexperienced than I am now  and really need new bearings and seals .

[John Mc]

Thanks for the reply, Andy, OGH, & Spike. I've not noticed any problems with that area I was concerned about being exposed on the 562XP. I've just never owned a saw that was so open in that area, so I wondered if it was missing a cover or something. I suppose it might make it easier for the chips to get out?

For some reason, I missed the notification that there were responses on this post, so have not checked back in a while.

[John Mc]

Loving the new 562XP so far. I've been out doing some crop & mast tree release, and it's been a pleasure to work with.

Only one gripe, and it's relatively minor: I really don't like the way the chain tension adjust works. I tighten it up, but before I can get the bar nuts tight, it's loose again. I have not looked at the mechanism, but it almost feels like it's just a straight rack & pinion that just relaxes as soon as you aren't holding tension on the screwdriver. I need a thord hand to hold things in place while I tighten things up. My older Husky and Jonsered saws felt more like a worm drive: you'd tighten it up, and it would stay tight while you snugged down the bar nuts.

I'd check the manual to see if there is some new procedure, but I have to find what I did with it first.

[firefighter ontheside]

I have no experience with that saw, but you tried tightening the chain by resting the bar nose on something like a log and then lift the other end by the handle so that weight rests on the nose.  Now tighten the chain to your liking and then tighten the nuts while still resting weight on the nose.  This is the way I always tighten chains and then the nuts.  You just need to get the nuts a little tight and then you can set the saw down to get a better hold to tighten the rest of the way.

[John Mc]

I have no experience with that saw, but you tried tightening the chain by resting the bar nose on something like a log and then lift the other end by the handle so that weight rests on the nose.  Now tighten the chain to your liking and then tighten the nuts while still resting weight on the nose.  This is the way I always tighten chains and then the nuts.  You just need to get the nuts a little tight and then you can set the saw down to get a better hold to tighten the rest of the way.

I either hold the bar tip up with my hand and snug the bar nuts op with the other, or find a chunk of wood to rest the bar nose on. Results are the same: Let go of the screwdriver, and the chain loosens a bit.

[Spike60]

Happens when they are new, especially so if they are dry. As you may be noticing, the adjustment screw comes to a dead stop instead of ratcheting as it should. One thing to try is to back it out a couple turns and then tighten it up again. Also a good idea to add some grease to the gears, both under the cover and to the adjustment screw itself.

Honestly not really sure what's going on there, but I do add the grease to every side cover when setting them up in the store. Once they are good, they stay that way.

[Old Greenhorn]

Never had a lick of trouble with mine that wasn't operator induced.  Took mine back to the dealer this week just for a wellness check. Only 7 hours run time and all looks well.