572XP AutoTune

[Big_eddy]

Success!!!

 Thanks again for everyone's input on this.  You guys nailed it.  Bad fuel caused the carb to gum up.

...

I still need to do a reset cut, but it's now running great!

Thanks for the step by step directions as well Big Eddy.

Happy to have helped and that you're up and running again.

[Smgchandler]

Big i wanted to post just to make you feel better about your fuel.  I also purchased a new 572  About a year ago and saw performed perfect until few weeks ago.  Same symptoms as yours except i had not even finished the 3 cans of husky fuel !!   Saw is at dealer now getting fixed and the only difference i noticed was my primer bulb was very slow to return full when pressed so i know something was stopped up - assuming it is screen in carb.  It's either filter in tank or something breaking down prior to fuel reaching screen in carb because i assume carb screen is stopped up.  I will post again on this after i pick saw up and ask questions to dealer.  I didn't see a lot of post about new 572's giving problems.  Guess we were just lucky !!  I didn't have a problem with cleaning screen and replacing lines and filter but when a fella spends a grand for a saw - expects it to run problem free for years but i had a problem turning a screw on it with it still under warranty.  I have a dozen husky saws and some are 25 years old still running strong.  Am a fan of AT too so far and believe this is a filter break down problem and not AT problem.  I didn't see blue or orange on the fuel filter - maybe white ?  Hopefully that was the problem.

[Log-it-up]

Kinda off subject but I figured I start here since it's on the 572xp
Question: dose any know if the chain break handle crosses over with any thing else or is it model pacific 
 And has any one had any problem with the sight on the fuel tank leaking and suggestions how to fix it 

[Spike60]

Other than the 565, the answer is no. Are they still on backorder? They were on backorder back in December. 

[Log-it-up]

So there the same as the 565?

[Log-it-up]

Another question for the saw guru's I'm the forum
I'm have a problem throwing chains when I limbing in heavy brush I tried different things with bars and chains from cheap to fairly expensive
Right now I'm using Husqvarna chain .50 3/8 84 drivers and a Oregon power cut bar and the same problem with it all at least once a day it will throw a chain most of the time I can salvage it in the field but some time I have to change them out do too driver damage I put on new bar ,basically brand new chain and drive sprocket on this morning and it happened again 
I find it sometime difficult to tighten the chain properly on my Husqvarna saw that I have (562,572) it seems like when I tighten the bar it gets bango tight so I have to compensate for that when tightening is this normal I guess it's kinda a two part question
I'm not green at cutting and felling but this kinda puts a damper in the day when I constantly putting a chain back on the side

[mudfarmer]

Can't help but have had the same trouble with 572 when limbing/lopping, keeping an eye on this for sure. Mostly have gone back to limbing w/ 346 just to avoid throwing the 572 chain.

[rusticretreater]

It sounds like you have a problem with the bearing or the clutch.  As things turn, they wobble and get loose again.  You need to take it apart all the way down to the shaft.  Inspect and replace parts as necessary or just because. Lubricate that bearing.  

Check your sprocket to make sure that you have the right one.  There are a thousand variations of sprockets and they are really similar in size.

One other thing, how far back in the slots are your adjusting/mounting bolts when you tighten up the chain? If you are nearing the end of the travel, your chain has stretched significantly and should be replaced.

[barbender]

I've always had to run my chain tighter than I like when in brush. The longer the bar, the harder it will be to keep it from happening. Brush makes harvesters throw chains too🤷

[donbj]

One thing I found very helpful when cutting brush is to "attack" it at 90 degrees. Try to avoid coming down at an angle at it. If the brush is at an angle to the chain it literally gets forced into the chain as its pulled down the bar/chain and can be forced under it, throwing it off. Try it out, I think you'll notice quite a difference. Keep chain tight.

[mudfarmer]

Mine has done this since the first tree it ever cut, did seem to be better when running chain uncomfortably tight. Will do some more limbing with it this week and run uncomfortably tighter as well as pay attention to angle, see how it goes 👍 have not had the same issue really with the small saw but such is life. Maybe because of the shorter bar I am accidentally keeping closer to 90. Then again running 20 on the 60cc as well with better results...

[Log-it-up]

Thank for the responses, it's nice to know other people are having the same problem I wish there was a better fix than slowing down instead of bull and jamming this mostly happens when I gather or pull a hitch of hardwood out a hole and its all kinda bundled together, it usually happens on the red maple or beech 
I'll check out the bearings on the clutch end of things, I would say the chains still have plenty of life there's still a lot of adjustment left 
I have been tighten the chain more than I would like but I feel I'm burning up the sprocket on the bars 

[mudfarmer]

For me it has been while lopping ash tops. But I have not had the saw that long and have only cut ash, sugar maple and cherry with it so far.

With the little saw I just go at it hacking and slashing like it is a horror movie audition. Long day of cutting with 572 yesterday and no problems! Running chain pretty darn tight and tried to stay conscious of angle of attack... Will see how it does today waiting on equipment to warm up



 

 

[will49766]

I just wanted to let everyone know that my 572XPG is working like a top since I cleaned the carb.  It winds right out now.  I have enjoyed reading the further discussion on throwing chains.  When I bought my saw it came with a .058 gage bar and chain.  They are now packed away new for future use as needed.  I really wanted a .050 gage bar and chain because it seems like this gage replacement chain is more readily available... So I bought the Oregon PowerCut .050 bar with the matching DuraCut DPX chain and haven't had any problems.  I like how long the chain stays sharp as well.  I really enjoy using this saw.  

Smgchandler  I had noticed my primer bulb was also slow to return as well before I cleaned the carb... Keep us posted on your issue.  It will be interesting to see what they find. More than likely its the same issue.  It's a fairly easy fix to do yourself if you don't want to wait for the dealer.  

[caveman]

We bought a 572xp a couple of years ago and it has run great since the purchase until yesterday.  I was cutting up some small hurricane debris (3"-12") and the engine stalled, like it was out of fuel.  I checked it and it still had quite a bit in the tank but filled it anyway.  The gas was mixed about a week ago at 40:1 using non ethanol fuel and Husqvarna oil.  I started the saw, and it idled for about 10 seconds and shut off.  When running at wide open throttle, it would run longer, but would eventually stall.  I tried to do the field reset by sawing a log lengthwise. 

This morning, I ensured that the air filter was not clogged.  When I pulled the spark plug wire off of the plug I noticed that the insulator on the plug was broken, and the top of the plug came off in the wire.  The only spare plug I had on hand was a Farmertech, but I assumed the plug was the problem.  With the new plug installed, it ran the same as before.  The spark arrester is in my parts box, so it is not clogged.  I pulled the exhaust to inspect the cylinder and piston-they looked new, but the top exhaust bolts were not as tight as they should have been.  I tightened them and again started the saw.  It continued to stall at idle after 10 seconds.

I suspect that the ignition module (coil) is the culprit, but I took it to the dealer where we purchased the saw since I have no way to really troubleshoot the autotune saw.  

Do any of you have predictions of what the problem is?  I'll try to remember to post what was done to repair it when I get it back.

[barbender]

 I don't have any predictions...I don't like what that plug did. I had the bendable electrode fall off of one (the part you bend to set the gap) it was just after I was bragging how I haven't fouled or changed a plug in years🤦 It destroyed my piston and cylinder before I could hit the kill switch.

[Spike60]

Let's pretend you guys are all in my store, before I retired and closed it of course. It's a Sat morning and we're all talking saws and hanging out. Most of these problems are pretty simple. Couple of you guys brought me in some coffee. I've had way too much, I'm wired and won't shut up. Happy to dispense free advice and take a quick look at some of these issues. Only open til noon on Sat, do we don't really do any real work anyway.

Pretty sure farmertec spark plus are non resistor type. Absolutely will not work in a 572. Won't even work in a non AT saw like a 450. 

Different saw models really don't cause thrown chains. A bar and chain doesn't know what saw its on. Too tight chains DO take out PTO bearings. Sometimes a natural over reaction to a thrown chain is to overtighten it. The longer the bar, the more drop the chain will have at proper tension. Can't compensate for that with too much tension. Mudfarmer has the right idea: grab the 346 and have at it.

AT carbs. AT is generally the LAST thing to look at. As many examples here have shown, it's still just a carb. Still has a screen. Still has a fuel filter. Has everything that a non AT saw has. There's one extra place to clean on these carbs while you have them out. Pull the AT module and clean in there. 3 little Phillips screws and pull the gasket without ripping it. 

[Old Greenhorn]

Spark Plugs are the cheapest, fastest and easiest trouble shooting test and my first 'go-to'. But, Bob's right and I find a lot of folks not using resistor plugs. In fact when I first learned how significant this was, years ago. I began doing a little survey and found a lot of shop that sell chainsaw supplies had plugs for sale that were not resistor. type and the 'clerks' were clueless about the difference and said if it fits, it will work. Not so at all. You have to be careful when you buy. 
 Which reminds me, I have to find a new source and get a few for my bag. I think I may have used up my last spare one on a leaf blower. Seems to me that heat kills those little buggers more than anything.

[Spike60]

Farmer tec can use non resistor plugs in their saws because they don't use speed limited coils. They work fine in the older saws. When Husky switched the 300 series to the speed limited coils, 2003, 2004 maybe? They made them all blue to differentiate them. Any blue coil has to run a resistor plug. Newer models may have blue or black coils, but you pretty much need to run resistor plugs in all of them at this point.

[caveman]

I got a call from the saw shop today while I was out on a fishing trip.  I told the client that, as unprofessional as it is, I'm going to take this call.  Our saw has been repaired.  They replaced the ignition module (coil) and the spark plug.  John is going to pick it up tomorrow.  I have three fishing trips tomorrow.

The coil in the 572 we have is black.  It ran the same on the plug I installed as the busted one I took out.  I'll try to get some spare plugs of the proper type.  Prior to changing the plug, I pulled one out a 365 that I crushed a few years ago.  It was a little longer and I was fearful of having a wreck with the piston, so it did not get installed.  We have another 572 in a box, but I did not want to start pulling any parts off of a new saw.

I'll be happy to have this saw back in service.  It was purchased to replace the 365 that I crushed with a log while taking a phone call when I was quarantined during Covid a few years ago.  I still miss using the 365-that was one cutting beast for a $100 CL purchase.

[caveman]

JMoore drove to Zephyrhills this morning and picked up the saw, paid the dealer a little over $70 and left me a text saying that it ran as it should.  I thought that this was a good deal for us since we have no way to do anything computer related to a chainsaw.  If we would have bought 372's, we would not have to deal with Autotune and computers, but this saw has been good to us and it usually puts a smile on my face when I'm using it.  

I have not seen it since it came home- I took 11 people on three different largemouth bass fishing trips today.  I had a woman who brought a book, thinking she may be bored, catch an 8.5 pounder and never opened the book.  Everyone caught fish today.  

If we get a 90-cc class saw, it will likely be a 395 even though the 592 has a lot of favorable reviews.