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Started by Paul Q, July 22, 2023, 06:57:38 PM

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Paul Q

Hi I'm new to posting on this site I have spent a lot of time reading other post and I admire the knowledge on this site. So my first question is are ppb more likely to infest into live edge lumber ? Second question is it possible to tell how dry the lumber is in a dehumidifier kiln by the humidity level? I do own a pin type moisture meter which I use but just curious 
Thank you in advance for your feedback 

Don P

Hi Paul, yes, they are more attracted to sapwood, that is where the starch they feed on is.
If it has been in there for a year or so at a constant RH yes, it should be at emc with that humidity level, short of that it would be speculation.

Paul Q


K-Guy

You can get an estimate by humidity level but if you have a pin type meter it's better to do a core and surface check, then average them.

Better than that, use sample boards and make sure you do it correctly.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

Stephen1

Welcome to the FF Paul Q 
Are PPB in live edge? Maybe depends on bark, but you tend to find more insects under the bark .  but I have seen PPB out of regular lumber no live edge. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

Ianab

Quote from: Paul Q on July 22, 2023, 06:57:38 PMSo my first question is are ppb more likely to infest into live edge lumber ?


A little more likely because even in species that are considered bug resistant, the sapwood can be vulnerable, and any live edge has some sapwood. Other species that are not bug resistant, the grubs can attack the heartwood anyway, so the risk would be the same. 

One thing about the PPB is that they attack dry wood, they won't be in green fresh cut stuff, Other bugs maybe, but those ones don't like dry wood. A heat treat period in the kiln is the way to make 100% sure, but a DH system won't get hot enough, so people add in heaters / heat lamps so they can turn off the DH and just crank the temp up for the last day. After that how the wood is stored is what matters, Keep it away from any wood that might have PPBs in it, The bugs don't travel very far, so keeping things tidy with no scrap wood for them to live in reduces the risk of infestation. 
Weekend warrior, Peterson JP test pilot, Dolmar 7900 and Stihl MS310 saws and  the usual collection of power tools :)

Paul Q

Thank you all for your help the ppb seemed to be mostly in the sap wood. I was able to get my kiln to 140 for 24hrs so I should be good I only had 4/4 and 6/4 in the kiln. I have to seal up my kiln better so I can reach the 150 thanks again 
Paul

K-Guy

Quote from: Paul Q on August 07, 2023, 03:42:49 PMThank you all for your help the ppb seemed to be mostly in the sap wood. I was able to get my kiln to 140


140°F is fine for hardwoods but higher is better for pine to set pitch.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

Sod saw

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K-Guy,

In your experience, what is the best temperature to set pitch and for how long should that temperature be held for the pitch?


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LT 40 hyd.          Solar Kiln.          Misc necessary toys.
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It's extremely easy to make things complicated, but very difficult to keep things simple.
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Don P

I've measured 180 on blistering shingles on the mirror side of heat mirror glass. 150 in transit in a truck. The SYP gristmill in the back of a box truck has probably seen 130 back there and must have seen more in its past. I'm thinking about adding a little more heat and be able to kill anything in there. Windowsills get hot if they are looking at the sun, any trims or siding. And then the hotter the better if you are rubbing sandpaper on it for more than a second. It depends on service.

K-Guy


@Sod saw 

In a DH kiln 160°F for
4/4  depending on how sappy the wood is. For low sap woods 24 hours, more for pine with more sap like SYP. The best is to put in full dimension scrap boards, pull one out at 24 hours, allow it to fully cool, then cut it in several places to see if the sap has crystalized, if not go longer(12 hours) and test again, repeat till it's done.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

sawwood

I have some white oak that I put in my solar kiln after it was air dried for a year. The oak is 5/4 thick and about 200 bf.  I had the wood in the kiln for about 4 months. When i checked  it was reading about 9 %. So i planed it and let it set in the shop for a week. When i looked at it some of it had little piles of sawdust on some of it. I think this is PPB in the wood right. Now if so how can i treat it to kill what is in the wood ? I had planed to use it to make kitchen chairs but not now. Let me if i can treat it or burn it.
Norwood M4 manual mill, Solar Kiln, Woodmaster
18" planer/molder

Stephen1

If you can heat it up to get the core above 133F or more for a few hours you will be okay. 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

K-Guy

According to the USDA, if you have a core temp of 133°F for 45 minutes, no bug or fungus can survive. I use 24 hours at 140° as a way to be sure you have reached that in 4/4 wood. It's probably overkill but better safe than sorry.
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

YellowHammer

Heat it up, kill them all.  I do 150 for 24 hours.
YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

K-Guy


Robert, you are such a tough guy!!!   fudd-smiley smiley_jester
Nyle Service Dept.
A common mistake people make when trying to design something completely foolproof is to underestimate the ingenuity of complete fools.
- D. Adams

YellowHammer

Yep, bugs is bugs and bugs in wood is bad. 

Makes it virtually radioactive.  

Had another customer come in this weekend asking about bugs, we usually get one or two a week who buy "other people's wood" but then come to us asking for help when their "other" wood has problems. ::)  

They were asking what they could do about some of their hickory flooring they bought from a local mill that had "little volcanos of sawdust" erupting from the flooring shortly after it had been installed in the new house they were building.  I said call your insurance company, a good lawyer, and next time buy your wood from us. 



YellowHammerisms:

Take steps to save steps.

If it won't roll, its not a log; it's still a tree.  Sawmills cut logs, not trees.

Kiln drying wood: When the cookies are burned, they're burned, and you can't fix them.

Sawing is fun for the first couple million boards.

Be smarter than the sawdust

sawwood

It has been hot here in Mo.  My shop has been in the  115  Deg last week and going to be this week.  So I stacked the oak on stickers and added a small heater blowing threw the stack. I hope this will kill them bugs. I have the window fan off so any wet heat can leave the shop. 
Norwood M4 manual mill, Solar Kiln, Woodmaster
18" planer/molder

customsawyer

I doubt if that will be enough. Most small heaters turn off at about 104°. You need to get the core of the lumber above 133° for sterilization.
Two LT70s, Nyle L200 kiln, 4 head Pinheiro planer, 30" double surface Cantek planer, Lucas dedicated slabber, Slabmizer, and enough rolling stock and chainsaws to keep it all running.
www.thecustomsawyer.com

sawwood

I have checked the shop a couple of times yesterday and the heater has been running ok. The shop temp has been almost  up to 118 deg.  i checked this morning and the wood is down to 9.9 %. is the core of the wood need to be 133% ?  I do have my shop heater but I don't really want to run it. Can you spray some type of PPB killer on the wood to kill them?
Norwood M4 manual mill, Solar Kiln, Woodmaster
18" planer/molder

Stephen1

You can spray what ever you want , but it will not kill the bugs or the eggs until you get the core temperature of the wood up to the recommended 133F . 
IDRY Vacum Kiln, LT40HDWide, BMS250 sharpener/setter 742b Bobcat, TCM forklift, Sthil 026,038, 461. 1952 TEA Fergusan Tractor

scsmith42

Yes, you can treat the wood. 

Personally there is no way that I would intentionally introduce ppb infested wood into my shop.  Too much chance that the PPB's will infect the other wood in my shop!

You can easily make a home made sterilization chamber from foam board and a space heater.  About 14 years ago there as an article in Fine Woodworking magazine about doing so. I'll send you a PM with a copy of the article.  It's pretty simple.

You don't need to leave your windows open, as at 9% humidity there won't be much moisture coming out of the wood.
Peterson 10" WPF with 65' of track
Smith - Gallagher dedicated slabber
Tom's 3638D Baker band mill
and a mix of log handling heavy equipment.

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