Where to find a head for SkyTrak Ford 444T engine?

[Ljohnsaw]

Looks like I need a new head. In my manual I also wrote down 268T for the engine. That sounds like the cu-in displacement on this 1986 4 cylinder turbo Diesel.

Were there any other pieces of equipment that used this engine? Anyone recommend a good bone yard? I'd try Ford direct but who/where to call? I'll try SkyTrak.com but not very hopeful for a nearly 40 year old piece of equipment.

[newoodguy78]

I'd try All states ag parts. Dealt with them for used and aftermarket parts  several times. They've always been good to deal with in my experience. 
The other place would be Wengers in meyerstown , Pa. Typically a little higher in price but have a big inventory. 

[chevytaHOE5674]

268T would be the same engine used in Ford Ag tractors like the 7600, 6610, 7610, 7710, and multiple others as well as other ford equipment. 

What's wrong with your cylinder head? I've rebuilt dozens of these 4cyl Fords and have never had a head that couldn't be saved.

[Ljohnsaw]

The head shop says there are cracks between the valve seats and injector holes. Said there were a few other surface cracks. Not worth rebuilding. This head shop has been in business for over 45 years that I've known them so I trust what he's saying.

[Southside]

Abeline Machine in Kansas has provided me with re man heads and injectors at a great price.

[KWH]

We have used All States AG Parts and Broken Tractor for Ford tractors.

[chevytaHOE5674]

Must have been severely overheated. 

I would get a bare core from all states ag parts and have the machine shop rebuild it.

[Ljohnsaw]

Ok, got a head from All States and it's ready to pick up at the head shop. The New Holland tractor place got me all the gaskets and valve seals I need. I'll see about putting it all back together this weekend.

The new valve cover gasket is a thick cork one. The old one was some sort of thin cardboard material with what looked to be a whole tube of sealant. Should I use something like silicone or just leave it plain?

So far in parts (head, gaskets, turbo), shipping and machine work I'm around $1,500.

Probably have to get a pair of new batteries, too. :-\

[Wlmedley]

I'd put a thin coat of silicone on the valve cover side.

[Magicman]

Probably have to get a pair of new batteries, too. :-\

I do not know about yours but many of the older machines used two 12 volt batteries in parallel or two 6 volt batteries in series to get the AH's needed.  My old JD and Oliver did.  I successfully rewired and converted both of them to one high amp 12 volt battery and saved $$.

[Ljohnsaw]

Two 12v in parallel.

[Don P]

We're cranking the Lull on one, just depends on whether you have the CCA's for the engine and weather. The dump truck has 4 honkers, that's gonna be a baad day.

[Magicman]

The problem with two in parallel is that no two batteries are ever exactly the same so one of them is always leaching off of the other when the engine is not running.  I had that situation on my JD and now have only one high AH battery and it is doing fine.  I will not go back to two.

[Ljohnsaw]

Unfortunately, the battery box is tucked between the frame and the fuel/hydraulic tanks. It is only 7.75" wide. The battery I got for the Ford is 8" wide. :(

[Magicman]

And also unfortunately, those "special" non-standard batteries usually cost more.  Oh well, you will only feel the pain when you pay for it.  

[Ljohnsaw]

Maybe I'll install a A/B/A+B/OFF switch like for boat trolling motors.

[Magicman]

If it's amp rated high enough.  Google "knife switch". 

[Ljohnsaw]

Got the SkyTrak all back together. Took a shot of either to get it going. Small coolant leak at the thermostat and a good fuel leak at one injector. A little wrenching and all good. Sounds good, revs without hesitation and no black smoke! Lots of power again. No liquids oozing out anywhere.  Once warmed up, starts right up. The old batteries have plenty of CCAs.

Only problem is I'm getting water in the oil.   :(

The radiator is holding pressure well after shutting down so not a big leak. This block is sleeved, presumably by design. My buddy, an ex heavy equipment mechanic, says there are gaskets or seals on the sleeves to seal the coolant and oil passages. Assuming  wet sleeves. Probably one has gone bad and calls for a total rebuild.

I'm thinking of one last ditch effort. Gonna try some Kseal in the coolant.

There is only a hydraulic oil cooler, no engine oil cooler on this engine. Comments?

[chevytaHOE5674]

The engine was not sleeved from the factory, it was a parent bore block.

It was probably sleeved because a cylinder cavitated. Very good possibility that it's leaking around one of the sleeves.

Pull the oil pan and pressurize the cooling system. Watch for bubbles to appear.

The best way to sleeve a parent bore ford block is to have your machine shop source some thick wall sleeves, cut the block back and press them in, then machine out to std size pistons. The "repair" sleeves that many companies advertise for those engines are very thin and have a tendency to leak, crack, move, etc.

[Ljohnsaw]

I was gonna pull the pan last week but when I got to looking at it, it really looks like you have to pull the engine first!

When looking at the top of the sleeves,iirc, they were a probably better than .0120" wall (thinking of metal square stock I weld).

[chevytaHOE5674]

Most of the sleeves sold for those are like .050 wall thickness. 

The sleeves I currently have my machine shop install are .1875" wall thickness. Prior to those we used .125" wall sleeves with good success.

I would pull the motor and pressure test the cooling system and find the leak. Run it with water in the oil and bearings get tore up quickly and then the crack gets tore up.