Timberjack 230D

[WhitePineJunky]

From all the digging that I've done on the subject, the big issue for Detroit 2 stroke oils is that they are low ash content. I don't remember what the newest diesel oil rating is (JF maybe?) but they have to be low ash now as well, so they don't plug catalytic converters and DPF's on new diesel emission systems. I have low ash 15-40 in my 3-53 right now, I think I'll put 5w40 synthetic in it at next change. I'm no expert and I could smoke my engine, so take what I say with a big grain of salt

I went with t5 15w 40 synthetic blend because that’s what the previous owner has in it. When I change it out completely I might switch over to 30 or 40 weight but I don’t know il do a bit more reading on it. So far I see lots of both answers amongst the internet of rotella 15/40 and straight weight oil

[47sawdust]

About that dented pumpkin...I thought they came that way from the factory.

[Walnut Beast]

Nice unit! Glad it's working out for you

[WhitePineJunky]

About that dented pumpkin...I thought they came that way from the factory.

Lol!

[WhitePineJunky]

I got farm truck/tractor grease is there any recommendations for the best grease to use or is farm truck grease 👍 
The dozer blade arm both sides wouldn't pump il try taking a propane torch to them heat them up before next time 

[C5C Tree Farmer]

From all the digging that I've done on the subject, the big issue for Detroit 2 stroke oils is that they are low ash content. 

I have a 92 series Detroit shop manual which has a section on engine lubrication where Detroit conceded that 15w-40 was OK to be used in the two strokes providing it met certain qualifications....low ash being one of them.
As a side note there was a period of time that the 92's and the 60 series engines were being manufactured at the same time.

[barbender]

 The only real answer I ever got from someone on why you shouldn't use multi-viscosity oils in a DD 2 stroke was a link to a study Detroit did with the various oils. They were having failures with 15-40, piston scoring and such, but iirc they were high ash content oils. I read somewhere else that some 5w40 synthetic would actually make the specs of a straight 40 oil because of its high temp viscosity. Again, I'm a long ways from an oil expert, but the ash content thing was what stuck out to me the most. It was nice to see some actual research and specifications instead of the often regurgitated "they don't like it"🙄 

 As for grease, the best grease I have readily available is Mystic #2 synthetic blend. I'm sure there may be better ones out there, but that is the best stuff I've used that I can run to town and get tomorrow. 

[WhitePineJunky]

Well found the coolant leak at the water pump? must be a gasket in there that needs replacing. Any good places online to get gaskets and parts from?


 
It’s coming between the red part connection and pump(I think it’s the pump anyway?)

[backwoodsdave]

Pretty sure that's your hydraulic pump, check the radiator above it for a leak.

[WhitePineJunky]

I wiped everything down then got it up temp and watched for any coolant, after a few minutes it dripped from that spot. Il get another look tomorrow

In the pic you can see the drip of green coolant there under it

[OntarioAl]

That's your hydraulic pump
The coolant is coming from the radiator
Cheers
Al

[WhitePineJunky]

Gotcha. Il try to poke around again tomorrow hope I can find the spot it's leaking 

[Plankton]

Harolds in maine is the place to go for timberjack and clark parks. Im sure theres other spots but those guys know there stuff.

[62oliver]

Check the easy stuff first. When I got my skidder it had a coolant leak too. Started tearing stuff off to get rad out, top rad hose clamp was just loose. Easiest fix ever.

[WhitePineJunky]

 

 

 

[WhitePineJunky]

It's working decent so far. My rag idea worked out for now it leaks about a half to full quart a day but the rags get the majority of it. I got a bag of rags made up from t shirts from frenchies for 8$ enough to last for the area I need skiddded asap